My H16 has the 5:1 purchase main block. I am only using this boat for casual sailing, not really racing or anything so, my question is, unless I really want to upgrade to the latest rigging, my original and current set up should be fine right? What are the advantages if I upgrade to a 6:1 set up up?

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Is the setup using multiple single blocks on the boom? One advantage of the double or triple blocks is they work better in light air. So it is easier to adjust in low wind conditions. It also helps when the wind picks up, so you can sheet out in a hurry if needed. The new racheting blocks are also really nice, but yes an unneeded upgrade if your current ones are decent. Also just upgrading the line can make a huge difference. Robline racing sheet or New England's Salsa line are two popular options of the sheets. Much easier on your hands and nice to work with.

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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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The set up has 2 single blocks on the boom along with the larger main blocks and there is a ratchet. It does have a really thick sheet also.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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The set up has 2 single blocks on the boom along with the larger main blocks and there is a ratchet. It does have a really thick sheet also.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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The new auto racheting blocks are nice. Ratchet under load, free spin when you let out line. Where my old seaway blocks would not want to release. The downside to going to 6:1 from 5:1 is the increased line to deal with. About 20% more line to pull in and let out as you adjust the main, plus or sitting on the tramp to manage. The benefit is easier to pull in under heavy load.

I have 10:1 on my boat, and am thinking about using an 8:1 I already have on light wind days to cut down on the extra line.

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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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I would start with a new mainsheet - cheaper upgrade and can have immediate improved handling

Thanks for all the info. In retrospect, my current and ordinal set up should be fine, as far as I can tell it works well. Not sure of the diameter of the mainsheet, but it is very thick and feels good in the hand.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Mast rake is everything on a H16 and you just can't get the optimum rake when using the original system. That and a set of Harkens will run so much more smoothly and function so much better than those old Seaways, it really will be a night and day difference upgrade.

sm

+1

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Mast rake is everything on a H16 and you just can't get the optimum rake when using the original system. That and a set of Harkens will run so much more smoothly and function so much better than those old Seaways, it really will be a night and day difference upgrade.

Yes, I would agree that mast rake and low profile blocks would make for better performance and all, but I don't plan on racing this boat. I think I will keep the orginal stuff for now. Maybe after I get back into it more then I will look at upgrading.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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martyr: I agree with all the praises of a modern 6:1 mainsheet system as stated above. (I run Carbo Ratchamatics with 5/16 inch line.) However I would caution that, depending on the particulars of the rest of your rigging (e.g., length of shrouds, stretch of mainsail, etc.), the 6:1 in and of itself may not allow you to get all the rake you'd want.

When you're looking to do an upgrade, even for casual sailing, I'd recommend that you first consider a jib control traveler kit like this:
http://www.murrays.com/01-3120.html
It makes travelling the jib super easy/convenient, and the low profile cars for the sheet are just sweet. The travel can be adjusted from anywhere on the boat, so you or the crew don't have to go forward to make adjustments, which can be a safety issue when sailing off the wind in heavier air. Besides, those spring-loaded thumbscrew thingies are a PITA!

Check your PMs.



Edited by rattlenhum on Jul 19, 2016 - 10:52 AM.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Hey Jerome, I read the pm and replied back, but never saw a confirmation that the messages had sent. Anyway, thanks for the advice and the info. The spring loaded pin things on the jib traveler is confusing me. I really don't understand the thinking behind those things, are they supposed to be a sort of preset or limiter to how much travel the jib can have? Why not set the things as far wide as possible and leave them there, when cleated off, the jib would stay put right? Clearly I have a bit to learn when it comes to the workings of the jib. I had a H14 long ago, so this H16 is going to take a bit of getting used to. It's a process.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Yes, I would agree that mast rake and low profile blocks would make for better performance and all ...

I am not 100% about optimal rake on a h16 (i do know they like being raked very far back) i also know having my mast forward on my boat powers me up. This is great in light air and scary in heavy air. Here in florida we can have all 4 seasons in 1 afternoon (calm, light air, heavy air, we're not in Kansas anymore air) so being able to rake/ depower is pretty critical - so this may be a valuable upgrade for the sake of being able to depower when needed - could change a terrible day to a wild one

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When you're looking to do an upgrade, even for casual sailing, I'd recommend that you first consider a jib control traveler kit like this:

Looks like a nice upgrade - sail shape is a huge factor in sailing but i found the h16 to be very forgiving compared to more complex cats
to be honest i never understood jib adjusters when i owned my hobies (16 and 18) and the boat sailed pretty well ... set up poorly (pretty well/not fast)

I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money, but there's a reason Hobie did away with the double-stack Seaway blocks back in the 80's and never looked back. If there was one upgrade you would want to do on a H16, it would be to swap to low profile mainsheet blocks. At the very least, I would swap out the lower block for a Harken, or at the bare, bare minimum I would change out the cam cleat from the steel Seaway to an aluminum Harken. Those Seaway cleats just don't release as easily as a Harken camatic. And, as someone else mentioned, make sure the sheet diameter is small enough that it rolls through the bocks easily - that is really key in preventing capsizing.

sm

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The spring loaded pin things on the jib traveler is confusing me. I really don't understand the thinking behind those things, are they supposed to be a sort of preset or limiter to how much travel the jib can have? Why not set the things as far wide as possible and leave them there, when cleated off, the jib would stay put right?

As a starting point (there are always exceptions), you travel the jib (and main) all the way in for upwind, all the way out for downwind (broad reach), and somewhere in between for closer to a beam reach. This, along with proper sheet trim, evens the flow over the entire sail, indicated by the upper and lower telltales flowing properly at the same time (or luffing at the same time if you sail too high or stalling at the same time if you sail too low). If you're in higher winds and feeling overpowered (constantly having to sheet out to keep the boat down), travelling out will spill some wind but still let you sheet in so that your sail is flatter (less powered up). Once balanced, you can go faster and without as much heel.

It's all in Rick Whites "Catamaran Racing for the 90s", which is somewhat of a misnomer since much of the book is about boat handling and trim.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Good stuff, many thanks for the suggestions. Now, where's that darn credit card, Lol!

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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martyr

Good stuff, many thanks for the suggestions. Now, where's that darn credit card, Lol!

haha!
my opinion - new sheets and blocks would be a very nice upgrade. you will feel the difference right away and will smile when you "feel" how great they are

jib outhaul control is a great thing to have, esp if you sail solo, race, are part of a group that makes you need to squeak out every ounce of performance (so you beat them to the dock) but is not something you will "feel". If you sail w crew, they can manage your outhaul for you (and you can yell at them when they mess it up)

Dogboy

I would change out the cam cleat from the steel Seaway to an aluminum Harken. Those Seaway cleats just don't release as easily as a Harken camatic.

sm

+1 on the cleat - that damn Seaway caused me a lot of trouble until I put a Harken on the bottom end. It was night and day different afterwards - no more panicky yanking on the mainsheet while be catapulted off the trapeze wire!

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H16 back in the day
SC17 right now
Bradenton, FL
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Man, you guys are going to have me updating the running gear before I've even have the boat in the water, Lol!!!! Seriously though, thanks for all the input, at least now I know what, and how, to upgrade things when the time comes. So, what brand name is the best when it comes to all the running stuff? Harken? Pretty sure there will be a variety of opinions on this. Lol!!!

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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