Yesterday when I was inspecting all of my 40 year old standing rigging I didn't see anything that would suggest that it needs replacing. There were no frays, discolor or kinks or even wear inside the thimbles or anything else unusual. The rigging has always been stored inside and while it is 40 years old it has only seen service and loading a very small percentage of that time. If the rig were standing all that time then replacement would certainly make sense just based on fatigue.

The main purpose of my rebuild is to insure confidence the boat is not going to come unglued when underway, but at this point I don't see why the standing rigging needs to be replaced. Is there a reason that I should rethink this?

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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Fresh water boat?

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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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This boat has sailed about 50/50 in fresh and saltwater.

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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I have replaced some of the rigging when a broken wire appears, usually near a eye splice at the swage. I think the bridle wires take the most abuse since they flex when the mast is removed or stepped. I have had long life out of all the stays, but I seem to go through wire halyards more frequently.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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I replace the rigging every 3 years, but I do a lot of sailing. Most of the times the corrosion cannot be seen, it happens within the swage where moisture and crud is captured and sits. I think of it as cheap insurance. Approximately $200 for new shrouds/forestay, vs the rig falling down = mast damage, beam damage, hull damage, and/or possible injury.
YMMV, but I wouldn't trust 40 year old rigging no matter what.

mikekrantz

YMMV, but I wouldn't trust 40 year old rigging no matter what.

Totally agree.

Some damage is very visible - kinks, broken strands, heavy corrosion. Damage from cyclical loading and stress corrosion cracking occurs at the microscopic level and can not be seen, but will also result in failure. Unless the wires sat in a barn unused for 25 of those 40 years, I wouldn't use them. As the previous poster stated, replacing wires on a regular basis is cheap insurance.

sm

+1 all above

not sure if you have diamond wires on a 5.2 but those shouldn't be overlooked
i found massive (hidden) corrosion under my diamond wire attachment point (was hidden behind the tang) and worth inspection

To me it is all about where the boat is kept and the sailing conditions...

For instance... my boat is kept on the beach... well at least this year, or at the mast up storage in the harbor... both are salt water environments and it is sailed in some awesome wind conditions.. As a practice I change it out every other year due to the environment and the stress factor on the rigging... Oh! Keeping a boat stored with the mast up also puts some stress on the rigging as well... so I have been told..

I try to douse it with freshwater after each sail to at least get the salt out... don't know if this is any help...

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John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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As a practice I change it out every other year due to the environment and the stress factor on the rigging... Oh! Keeping a boat stored with the mast up also puts some stress on the rigging as well... so I have been told..

Smart move, much better than dropping a mast on other boats or persons
and the wind is constantly "cycling" your rigging with the mast up, so yes it adds a little wear on the rigging (and boat)

Quote

I try to douse it with freshwater after each sail to at least get the salt out... don't know if this is any help...

helps with surface salt but it's the deep rust that will get ya in the end (broken bow tang, side tang, corroded bolt, etc). I would continue to do it as it can't hurt. (imho)

Anyone want to chime in on vinyl coated vs. bare wire? I believe in uncoated, I think letting the wire breath prolongs life. I don't find much more comfort in getting swung into a vinyl coated wire over a bare, although I know that is why some people like the coated.

Vinyl coated wire is easier on the sails and of course hands. It does eventually break-down. That might not be a bad indicator of when to replace the wire?

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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I personally wouldn't choose the coated. I had a Hobie getaway stay fail in the fall, though it looked fine everywhere you could see the wire.

On a freshwater boat, SS rigging seems to have a LONG LONG life. Many of the guys I sail with are still running on original equipment 10+ years old. But, on a salt water boat, I would put it at 3 years.

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Greenville SC

Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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So I'm getting the impression that no one thinks 40 year rigging is good to go. Ok, just add that on to the shopping list. To do everything is a chunk of change based on Murrays pricing, closer to $750 with halyards, diamond wires, bridle etc.. Not a problem I wanted some spares anyway.

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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Repeat after me 'nothing on a sail boat is cheap'. Yeah every time I buy a new (used) boat I budget at least $500 for line, rigging and assorted repairs. Throw in a tramp and you above $750. I always replace standing rigging on a used boat just because you don't know what it has seen.

As far as coated rigging. Freshwater, yes no problem. Saltwater, never it'll hide corrosion and fraying from you and fail catastrophically.

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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dmgbear55

To do everything is a chunk of change based on Murrays pricing,

http://www.saltydogmarine.com/index.php?cPath=209

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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A quick check between Saltydogmarine and Murrays showed a split on costs, some higher some lower. I'm also checking with a friend to see if going direct to a rigging shop is any advantage.

When this project is all done, with paint, rigging and new sails, rivets etc. I will share the order of magnitude for a serious rebuild like this. Let's just say that we are going over the original purchase price of the boat 40 years ago. Still way less than those fancy new boats you all are sailing around on.

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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Hahaha I think this site is more than 90% devoted to how to keep pre 1985 boats alive! My 2 are 1982 and 1985 and I'm current working on rebuilding a 1976. It's a noble goal and why this place is so awesome. No one questions why you wouldn't just buy a new boat even if it would make sense. Except for aquacats of course.

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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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tominpa

Vinyl coated wire is easier on the sails and of course hands. It does eventually break-down. That might not be a bad indicator of when to replace the wire?

And here I thought the wires were coated black to match the trim on my boat..... Lol.

Seriously though, the rigging on my boat may be original, don't know for sure, but I do know that the previous owner was very meticulous with this stuff in that he removed all of the rigging and stored it all, including the boat and trailer, in his garage. When I got the boat home and set it up in my back yard, there were labels on the shrouds and lines indicating what side they went on. I am very fortunate that the previous owner was OCD with everything to do with this boat. Kudos to being OCD!!!



Edited by martyr on Aug 17, 2016 - 02:39 AM.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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I have posted this before and it bears repeating I would advise against using factory wires or after market wires for many boats. Some manufactures have begun using cheap SS wire rope from less than ideal Asian sources
Get them made locally using Mil/Aerospace spec wire made in the USA or EU, and genuine Mil/Aero Spec thimbles and forks. It will not cost any more than factory parts, mine actually cost less. Make sure you ask that the thimbles, forks etc are packed with either 5200 or lifecaulk before swaging so that water never intrudes.
I suggest changing rigging often 3-5 years
Although they may look fine there is such a thing as material fatigue with age