Here is the latest update on this project. Sure would be more fun to be out sailing when it is 95° then bent over a mast with a polisher fixing spray paint problems. Also, who knew that the $12 riveter would get into places that the more expensive tools won't go. Mind you it can only pull aluminum rivets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8mkAa_VfBY

Waiting now for the temperature to drop a bit so we can start playing with the final finishing on the hulls.

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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Your project is looking great, and reflects a lot more patience than I have. How do you think the paint on the beams and mast will hold up to slapping by the main blocks or halyard fixtures?

Related to your riveter, I have one with a swivel head that seems to get into some tough angles, and I bought it to install hardware on the front beam for a righting system. Now my port trampoline groove is showing signs of pulling out the rivets in the rear. I installed two aluminum rivets to see if they would hold it, but they quickly stretched. Any suggestions?

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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I fully expect that the paint on the mast and beams will chip, but even that will look better than the tired anodized surfaces and that is why I decided that what I had was good enough. The issue with the riveter is the size of the nose, the inexpensive one is much smaller than any of the others. Where that is important is getting into the one end of the clam cleats.

I would also suspect that you are not actually "stretching" the aluminum rivets, but that they are either too short or more likely the bulge in the set rivet is pulling into the glass. While I don't think it would be very easy I would try and get a backer washer on the rivets you can get to on the tramp rail. I am pretty sure that all the rivets holding these tramp rails are aluminum and not Monel.

I started looking at the rivet holes I drilled out for the side stays and figured out I needed to order some more of the longer 3/4" Monel rivets. These rivets need to go all the way through two very thick sections of glass. I don't think I care if they are 'too' long, as long as they stay in place. I probably should have tried to figure out how long there rivets were before I drilled them out.

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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I would have to cut a new port near the rear of the hull, forward of the rear beam. I'm going to try longer rivets first. The first ones didn't hold for long, and I'm sure part of the problem is length 1/2". Your boat is looking good, but it's time to launch if you want to get a piece of Summer 2016. Blowing waves over the beam last week was good therapy for all the painting and sanding.

One other question; what is the purpose and objective of tensioning the front beam? I have replaced the Dolphin striker in the distant past, but never gave any thought to bending the beam.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Tom I will be honest I didn't know about this step until I saw it in one of the photo albums and I am not sure who posted it. But it makes sense. By putting some pre-load into the main beam you start involving the strength of the DS sooner. Without the pre-load the beam has to bend some before it transfers the load to the DS assembly.

There will be No Launchings before it it is time, no matter how tempting. I have many other toys to go play in the water with, so don't worry too much about me.

dg

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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