I'm looking to add this to my Nacra 5.2 and looking for some slick and smooth ways to route everything. Anyone have some pictures of a design they have seen or done? thanks

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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
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THis would be your "typical way"

another pic

The only real variation i have seen would be to run the line through the front beam

I was considering placing my hauler lead on my wings.. i tried a few times but the extra line on deck wasn't desirable, and it added another "tanglement hazard" during rigging/de-rigging for me so i just put it back to where it normally attaches (front beam)

This would be my suggestion for a sleek and sexy setup:
Get a cute girl to manage the lines

thanks for the examples, I wonder how much more effective the 1st picture is vs. the second, pulling from in front of the beam instead of behind.

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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
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I think you will find a negligible difference -
I think it is much more important where you place/face your cleat. If you don't direct it in the right direction, it will be a pita to cleat or uncleat

my guess is the skipper placed them forward because that cleat was already there in the typical place (on the aft side of the forward beam) - i would also say the line could get fouled on the beam bolt or clam cleat in that example - requiring crew or skipper to go down to the low side to mess with it

The goal is to get the jib clew out and forward.
you can test different mounting locations prior to drilling:

test on the beach: place the bows into the wind and play around with your jib - see where it "sits" with different block locations
if your in VERY light air, you can test with the sterns into the wind

on the water: just use your (crews) hand to hold the jib clew in slightly different locations - this is how they did it before mr barber invented this system

Now that's what Willis was talkin' about!!! I'd go with the girl!!!

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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(Forgive the photos - I just rescued the boat from a decade in the woods. A new set of running rigging is forthcoming)

It appears my Nacra 5.2 barberhauler system is done internally in the front beam. There's a small semi-recessed block at each end of the main beam with a small cam cleat adjacent to it.




The rest of the system is rigged what appears to be "normally".



I can't wait to get this boat cleaned up.

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Erik
1979 Nacra 5.2
Central Virginia
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loquinho

It appears my Nacra 5.2 barberhauler system is done internally in the front beam. There's a small semi-recessed block at each end of the main beam with a small cam cleat adjacent to it.

I have seen similar - it's great to get lines off the deck but i am NOT a fan of that Lance Cam Cleat. Looks like it could be a real PITA to uncleat (est from the other side of the deck)

Also the bullet block that is being used there may work but on the other example of "in beam rigging" there was a nice "unit" in that location. It was in a self contained unit with a turning block recessed and a small cam cleat also in the unit (it was encased in a small metal box). looked like it would not only run the line correctly but also probably added some strength to the beam where it had been notched out

thanks a lot for those pictures, Wow, you have your hands full with that one. But another 5.2 cleaned up will be a win for sure.

nice seeing a very different design. I may be a bit confused on that piece that the line runs through onto the hull. also seems like you would of wanted it a bit out farther...but some is much better than none. I love the idea of running things through the crossbar, but I felt it would be a bit risky to deal with so I think I have a different plan with a mini cheek block, and a clamcleat on the opposite side. Keep us up on your progress.

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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
--

Well, I'm so new to sailing that I only have a vague idea of what a barberhauler does. I may remove it when I restore the boat, and get the basics down before introducing advanced techniques. :)

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Erik
1979 Nacra 5.2
Central Virginia
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Slightly different topic and I'm not sure if it is anything other than an optical illusion, but it seemed to me that the dolphin striker rod as it is coming up and out of the main beam is really tall. On my 5.2 there is only about 1" under the mast ball.



If your mast ball is as far above the main beam as it appears in that last image you should look at a couple of things before sailing the boat hard. I think there are a couple of iterations of these rods, so I will defer to better historians, mine is a newer one which could account for it being lower. But it may also be that whoever set your boat up didn't prestress the entire dolphin striker assembly. This is done by using the nut under the main beam to apply a preload on the beam and once that is done the top nut is tightened down. There is a chance that leaving the mast ball so far above the beam you could bend the DS above the beam. It is a real bear to remove if that happens.

My boat has never had a barber hauler, just relied on pretty crew members to hold the sail out. Now that I'm sailing solo more I guess I will be adding this feature to the boat.

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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dmgbear55

There is a chance that leaving the mast ball so far above the beam you could bend the DS above the beam. It is a real bear to remove if that happens.

What? That bends?



Yeah... I think I already have that problem... but that's a topic for another thread. Thanks for pointing it out, though! I'm loving all the help here.

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Erik
1979 Nacra 5.2
Central Virginia
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I may be a bit confused on that piece that the line runs through onto the hull. also seems like you would of wanted it a bit out farther...but some is much better than none.

I agree - not the most optimal location (and maybe not worth doing like that due to the location) but the beam straps would prohibit much more of an outward location. Atl least it is pulling the jib clew forward to the beam which will be beneficial

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I love the idea of running things through the crossbar, (BEAM - crossbar is the part that connects the tillers on a catamaran) but I felt it would be a bit risky to deal with so I think I have a different plan with a mini cheek block, and a clamcleat on the opposite side. Keep us up on your progress.

What is "risky"? (besides cutting holes in your beam?)
cheek blocks and clam cleats are not optimal here. - cheekblocks sit flush so that would not produce a favorable sheeting angle and will cause your line to frey (i recommend a small block that is on an eyestrap so it can articulate - clam cleats are also not the best option (IMHO) as they would require more precise line management to cleat and uncleat, i would recommend a regular set of cam-cleats but a cam cleat could work, just not optimal

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Well, I'm so new to sailing that I only have a vague idea of what a barberhauler does. I may remove it when I restore the boat, and get the basics down before introducing advanced techniques. :)

barberhaulers pull the jib clew forward and outward

when sailing upwind, a flat(er) and tight(er) jib is benificial. acting like a wing

when sailing downwind, a pocket like (or parachute like) sail shape which can be beneficial in a deep downwind run.

This is not too advanced but is also not required in any way. It does add a little more clutter to your deck but is pretty low tech/low maintenance and relatively low skill - so it may be fine to not have this feature on your boat but once you get the hang of upwind and downwind sailing and tech, it is probably the cheapest upgrade you can add to your boat and can make the difference when racing (during a race, or just racing the catamaran next to you to the beach)