http://www.apsltd.com/ang…ser-15-degree-micro.html

small cam cleat riser.

Question is I'm wanting to add a cleat on my beam, but at an angle so I considered customizing the base of this riser to suit the curve on the beam. the location would require a compound curve so that is not going to be a standard cured base...which I don't even see for harkens small cleat (H468)

Question is, what does the bottom look like. is it solid? can is safely be ground down to fit your needs?
thanks

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1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
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The riser plates are solid plastic, a nylon like material. They can be ground and cut. These are usually available in your local west marine or other marine store.

My advice is to find a flatish spot on the beam to mount your cleat. Only on a Hobie 16 or similar might this be an issue, but in general it shouldn't be a problem.

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Question is, what does the bottom look like. is it solid? can is safely be ground down to fit your needs?

It's hard plastic and hollow. But it could be ground down.

What boat?
Have you looked at Murray's? There are some solid rubber pads here.
https://www.murrays.com/category/c-mo-c/

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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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How do you plan to fasten the cleat to the beam? Drill and tap for machine screws? Most beams have a fairly thin wall, so not a lot of material for thread engagement. If it is a high load application, you might need to take that into consideration, especially if the cleat is mounted on a riser pad there is going to be a lot of leverage (bending moment) trying to pull the screws out.

sm

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It's hard plastic and hollow. But it could be ground down

thanks for the link nacra 55,

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How do you plan to fasten the cleat to the beam? Drill and tap for machine screws? Most beams have a fairly thin wall, so not a lot of material for thread engagement. If it is a high load application, you might need to take that into consideration, especially if the cleat is mounted on a riser pad there is going to be a lot of leverage (bending moment) trying to pull the screws out.

sm

Thanks Dogboy. I have wondered about having threads into that material being thin, and adding a riser as well. So you bring up a great point. I was a bit surprised thinking that its suggested to mount a cleat with a screw as apposed to a revit. I will it admit it has made me concerned.
This will be for a barbour hauler on the sib of my nacra 5.2. I can't imagine there is a lot of pressure on a hauler .

Do you guys think this is a safe idea with a riser?

thanks for your input.

--
1988 Nacra 5.2
YouTube link to see boat in action:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLddinE6IorSrPpZrlvcwAjRzSIQsKYPG1
--

i have similar angle riser under my cleats on my beam - for my barberhauler
I don't think you're gonna be able to rivet in a standard cleat. they are plastic and will either shatter during riviting or if the rivet doesn't kill the unit - it will be too tightly secured to work well.

I have "tapped" cleats on my beam for years - and yup - they strip or rip out a bunch - so a bolt and internal nut is def the way to go if you can access it.

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This will be for a barbour hauler on the sib of my nacra 5.2. I can't imagine there is a lot of pressure on a hauler .

you may be surprised how much tension is on that line - but think about your jib sheet .... it takes a lot to get that last little bit of sheet in - that's a similar amount of tension you will have getting your barberhauler all the way out and set with pressure on the jib (but we are talking downwind, not upwind so slightly less - but still a fair amount)



Edited by MN3 on May 02, 2017 - 04:46 PM.

If you have access to thru-bolt with nuts on the inside of the crossbar, that would be ideal. Even if it is a long reach, you may be able to attach an extension to your wrench (use a piece of pipe or similar) to hold the nut inside the beam.

I agree, a barberhauler can have quite a lot of load. Probably roughly the the same as your jib sheet.

Another option would be to take a separate aluminum plate which is thicker than the crossbar (say 3/16" - 1/4" thick) so you can get plenty of thread engagement. Drill and tap the plate and screw the cleat onto the plate. Then use rivets to attach the cleat/plate assembly to your crossbar.

Using rivnuts would also be a good option, but a special tool is required to set them.

sm

csmonte

This will be for a barbour hauler on the sib of my nacra 5.2.

On my 5.2 the cleat is horizontal on the beam, i.e. to tighten it you pull it along the beam towards the mast rather than aft across the tramp, thus the cleat fits flat against the beam; I am guessing you want it facine fore / aft over the curve of the beam?

To be honest I found the barber hauler just gets in the way when two up on my 5.2, maybe if you are sailing competitivley its could be worth it but for my general sailing I have taken the barbour hauler lines off.

Anthony

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Using rivnuts would also be a good option, but a special tool is required to set them

Rivnuts? now your just making up tools!


jk - but i never heard of them before - i just looked them up - pretty cool

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To be honest I found the barber hauler just gets in the way when two up on my 5.2, maybe if you are sailing competitivley its could be worth it but for my general sailing I have taken the barbour hauler lines off.

I have removed and restored it at least a dozen times on my current boat.
yes - it adds more spaghetti to the deck, and yes, it's another freakin control line ... but i find it is a valuable additional asset to improve speed when going downwind if you can't use a spin for any reason, or the angle isn't there to use a spin