I have already primed one hull using preckote. I used a foam roller.looks ok. Tomorrow I will try the roll and tip using brightside.I will hang it in the air but it will be tricky going all the way around the hull and tipping because of the drying time. I figured I would roll about 14 inch wide area all the way around and then tip it,then roll again and repeat.I will roll vertical and tip horizontal. I thought I might spray the barn area where I am working good with insecticides. The bugs are thick. After the pre kote primer I will sand using 320 grit,then wipe using the 333 thinner then use a tact cloth. I am hoping to use just one coat of the brightside paint. It's so expensive and just bought 2 quarts. Any thoughts? Thanks

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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By the way I am using brightside glo blue. It's basically white and using white pre kote primer and not thinning. I did the boards they turned out ok without thinner.



Edited by ec on Mar 18, 2018 - 10:18 PM.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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I rolled and tipped using Prekote and then Epifanes topside paint mono-urethane. Came out looking great, but in retrospect A) would have just bought nicer hulls and not painted them. Was a huge amount of work and cost more than I wanted it to. B) would have used apolyurethane as the mono-urethane scratched up a fair bit.

I used a 6 in foam roller and started tipping with a fancy badger hair brush, but then found I had better results with throw away foam brushes.

BREAK*POINT Album

Sad thing is I had a major hull failure and insurance came close to totaling it. It's for sale now with much less pretty hulls so I can focus just on F18 racing.



Edited by tiberiusgv on Mar 19, 2018 - 11:14 AM.

ec, working time on the paint was not much of a problem for me, but you have to watch how much 2333N reducer (233 for you) you mix. Cool weather needs less. I found I had to use a palm sander to knock down the PrimeKote and get a smooth finish. The Interlux Perfection I used, produced a complete coat with almost 1/4 qt leftover to coat two NACRA 5.7 hulls and rudders. I could mix the paint and apply working end to end, rolling and tipping as I went. The coating covered the top and to the center of the skeg or keel line. I started at the stern towards the bow, then back to stern on both hulls, and got the tops on the first pass.

I learned that it is not possible to rewet paint that had started to blend and dry, so the best technique was to continue moving and blend back to the previously finished section, then move forward. My suggestion is to roll out a 4 to 6 foot length, then tip, then roll the next 4 to 6 foot length and blend back into the previous section. Do not try to roll a 14 inch horizontal band all at once, then tip, and try to blend with a second tier of paint above or below, you will surely get a blend line.

Your two quarts will cover both hulls with two coats, and you're going to need it. Light sanding between coats. I also hung my hulls from the garage ceiling and hung the rudders. Bugs did not turn out to be an issue, but if one should land on the fresh paint, it's better not to remove it unless it's walking. It will blend out with compound better than you can repair brush marks or a swipe.



Edited by tominpa on Mar 19, 2018 - 01:18 PM.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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I have a question for Tom. If I start at the bow working back but rolling with a 6 in foam roll going all the way around vertical then tipping horizontal which would be about a 10 inch Tipp Swipe? Is that how you would do this? I am not sure what you meant. Understand the rest and thanks for the good advice. I always like to hear from folks who have experience such as you and tiber.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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By the way, it's a prindle 18.2 so there is not a lip at the deck.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Interlux Brightside rolls and tips great. Just my experience from my F25C and H17s, once you tip, DO NOT go back over with a roller or retip as it will catch leaving imperfect finish. My finish is/was indistinguishable from sprayed Awlgrip.

You want to do an area where when you overlap the next area, you have just a little bit of wet from previous roll/tip area so do not take a break halfway down hull. I found 70-75 degrees is optimal and I could easily do H17 in ~1 hour but of course, the time-consuming part is the prep which must be immaculate. Note after sanding I always prep/clean last w/Acetone.

James F25C modified and H17 modified

I have rolled and tipped with Awl-Grip. I would make sure you get the finest nap roller you can find. The I used was for painting cabinets. I would definitely shot for two coats on top of the primer (Prekote). Don't let the paint dry on your tipping brush. Dip the brush in appropriate thinner and then wipe off brush with lint free cloth if this starts to occur.



Edited by spoulton on Mar 19, 2018 - 04:44 PM.

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Scott
ARC 21
Prindle 18
Annapolis, Maryland
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I have rolled and tipped with Awl-Grip. I would make sure you get the finest nap roller you can find. The I used was for painting cabinets. I would definitely shot for two coats on top of the primer (Prekote). Don't let the paint dry on your tipping brush. Dip the brush in appropriate thinner and then wipe off brush with lint free cloth if this starts to occur.



Edited by spoulton on Mar 19, 2018 - 04:44 PM.

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Scott
ARC 21
Prindle 18
Annapolis, Maryland
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ec

I have a question for Tom. If I start at the bow working back but rolling with a 6 in foam roll going all the way around vertical then tipping horizontal which would be about a 10 inch Tipp Swipe? Is that how you would do this? I am not sure what you meant. Understand the rest and thanks for the good advice. I always like to hear from folks who have experience such as you and tiber.

The reason I started from the stern on my boat is that the bows have a lot more surface on top that needs to blend to the sides. As I approach the bow, the outside and top remained wet as I made the turn and started back toward the stern, so all of top blended with the sides. If you start on the outside of the bow, by the time you get back around, you will have a mostly dry edge to try to blend where the top meets the side. As you note, your Prindle does not have a lip which would make a nice stopping point for painting the bows allowing the top and sides to be done separately. Where you don't have a hard edge or separation, it is important to complete the part as continuously as possible.

The stern blends easily, and is mostly covered by the tramp, crossbar and rudders anyway. So by far, the bows are more visible, and will show any blending errors. I completed the flat back section with the rudder pin mounts and painted the top just past the inside top edge, and then had a very short bit to blend when returning to the stern to complete.

Tipping technique I used was to roll the section, then tip horizontally back towards the completed section (about 2-feet). The paints blend very well as long as you don't try to paint into something partially dry. I used good quality 3-inch foam brushes with tapered tips. I tired using a good quality bristle brush, but got better results using the foam, and replaced when they got too flexible or began to deteriorate. It usually took me 4 brushes for each coat, but the Perfection is harder on the foam.

You are suggesting starting at the bow and painting both sides and top in short sections. That could work, but it is a lot of ducking back and forth under the hull. I think that would be simply exhausting, and harder if you're wearing Tyvek and trying to juggle a roller, brush and paint container. I found I could paint longer sections up to 2-3 feet on one side with plenty of time to tip. The top of the hull was below eye level chest-high, and the bottom of my hulls were about mid-thigh to knee height. If I had to continuously duck under that hull I would have paint all over me, rub marks on the hull, and an aching back. Your idea may work, but do a quick dry run and see if it's practical for you.

The quality of your paint job will be seen as you sight down length of the hull, especially the outside. Each long side is more important to the appearance than along the top edge or especially side to side. The good news is it's paint. You can fix it, and you have two coats to figure it out.



Edited by tominpa on Mar 19, 2018 - 05:25 PM.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Tom I now understand you techniques and I will try to use it. Yep I see what you mean. I am glad you guys are here. I have spent so much money and hours on this project. I would have never recouped the money if I was to sell this cat. The only advice I could give someone about restoration is buy one that needs very little work. I bought mine cheap but if some gave it to me I would had been better off not to take it unless I just half way fixed things but most of us want it in good condition. I took all decks off and reworked with epoxy especially from the front beam to bows. There were stress fractures so I spent 2 weeks grinding and epoxying them back to orginial. No soft spots but grounded stress marks out adding epoxy glass. Probably added3 pounds to each hull but took out bad glass. The deck lids were put back with epoxy and fill the outside ruts they sanded along with the non slip grit on the decks. Now it actually looks great but I hope it's strong. One of the center boards were rubbed down about 5 inches from dragging on payment guessing. I cut between the glass adding epoxy and glass using a mold filled with epoxy and glass. Then I shaped it sanded and filled along with a few strips of glass on outside. Looks like new now. Just hope this thing floats!

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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One thing I found interesting on the centerboard is that the inside looks to be fiberglass a brown color and all the way around the outside the color is sort of a yellow which I believe is epoxy for strength. That's my guess.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Centerboards and rudders look great faired and painted.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Yes, and mn3 sent a video of a pro doing it. That is how I did mine on the rudders and boards. I might go black paint in a flat shade.probably just use a spray can in a professional grade from a parts store. Just a thought. On my trampoline I am doing a polypropylene in 4 inch strips and doing a basket weave. I have a leather shop with industrial sewing machines that I will use. I can buy this material from a supplier. The whole thing will cost 125.00 including my grommets and rope. I hope it turns out ok . It's a great forum with good folks. Thank you everyone for the help.

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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Also spend some time organizing your lighting. You need a lot of light to see what is happening and if it rakes the hull you can better see what is, or is not going on.

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dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975
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