Not really related to the subject of the post, but it’s pretty remarkable how much spray gets kicked up when the leeward end of the crossbar dips down into the water. Major fire hose action.
I don't think I ever actually "dipped" the lee bow during any of these runs. The vertical spray is from what was coming over the bow with 1-3" of it still visible then flowing in to the crossbar which shoots it straight up. Yes, it is remarkable and makes me think more performance would be had keeping the boat flatter (more bow out of the water) when up wind close hauled. Creating that fire hose spray takes a lot of power which is slowing the boat down. The action cam has shown me more about sailing and boat specific setup than just about anything. I can easily see that I needed more downhaul and/or am a bit oversheeted on the main.
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --
That would hurt pointing angle, bows down is good on that boat, I heard half of the bow under water is good, at high speed probably a bit higher to avoid pitchpole.
Unfortunately don't have that luxury right now. Several folks have suggested this and there's no doubt that it would expose more opportunities for improvement...some day....some day....some day
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --
That is unusual. In a blow, we bury the lee hull, right up to the crossbar at times, & never see that kind of vertical firehouse. We have end caps, maybe an open beam throws more water ?
It’s hard to tell from the video, but it looks like the Xbar extends outside the hulls, & it is that extension that is catching water flowing down the hull.
I have a half dozen legacy Nacre beams & DS support straps, not one of the straps/ DS rod is the same. When you assemble the nacra, the book says to slide the hull in until the end of the support strap touches the plate on the hull. Sounds good, on paper. In reality you could have 1/2” of beam sticking outside the hull. You want your beams parallel under load, so I setup with the front 1/4” wider than the rear, ( allows for each hull to be pulled in 1/8” under load). On my 5.7 this means the hulls are 1/4” AWAY from the SS tab on the hull. The 5.0 is not quite as much. With no beam protruding, you don’t see that firehouse, & it hasn’t seemed to matter that the support strap is not in contact with the pad, & we drive the sh* t out of these boats, one sail last summer in an honest 30 mph blow & steep waves, turtled the whole fleet within 100 yards of the each other. Self rescued, a Nacra recovers from turtle by just hiking off bow, & 20 mph will right by just hiking.
Not so, they are equal. Just putting the 5.7 back in today, measured them both, at the shroud, & deepest part of skeg. They measure nearly identical, the moulds could be the same, they just stretched the 5.7 two feet.
Correct, these skeg hulls point fairly well, if you bury the bow, & I mean both sailors being at the front beam if required. Both the 5.0 & 5.7 are very resistant to pitchpole. It can be done,(only seen it once on the 5.7), but you really really have to be flogging it right into steep waves. Normally the bow will go under, right up to the front beam, the boat will lose speed, then surface.
All in all, pretty good speed. IIRC, our record ( GPS) for the 5.0 is 19.5 mph, we have not cracked 20. The 5.7 is 21.4 or 22.4
Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 23, 2018 - 01:04 AM.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Here is a bit of spray. This is the closest to a pitchpole capsize I've come on the 5.0. At this moment the bow was about a foot below the water. Fortunately, the boat just bogged down to a crawl then the bow popped back up. After laughing like maniacs we sailed on.
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --
Very often when I sheet in with the traveler not centered, it moves back, making it difficult from the trap, I think it's worse when I'm standing near the rear beam. I'm not using that setup anymore but the one on the picture below. I can use that cleat or otherwise it works as standard. In the end it doesn't work as expected, it would be very useful on strong conditions but unlocking one side and locking the other is an additional task that I would rather avoid when tacking often. I use it occasionally, on long runs but not really often. Otherwise I keep the traveler centered, even in strong conditions. I enjoy doing this kind of mods though.. that's probably the whole point of it..
I have never seen a NACRA with 1;1 jib sheets, it must be very difficult to sheet in. All the NACRA I have ever seen since 1984, have 2:1 jib sheets. i.e. a pulley hanging from the jib, so the jib sheet goes through the pulley and back down to the deck. Much easier to sheet in.
check out section 55 & 56 of this old manual
https://www.nacrasailing.com/wp-content/uploads/pdf/nacra-vintage-assembly-manual.pdf
Jim Casto
Austin TX
NACRA 5.5 uni
previous
NACRA 5.7
NACRA 5.8
NACRA 5.0
NACRA 5.2
I originally ran the jib sheet system 2:1 with pigtails per the manual, but I found that 1st it's way too much line to deal with. I can set the jib much faster with it 1:1. 2nd the pigtails, blocks and attachment shackle was getting hung up A LOT even with a bungee preventer. Neither I or my crew have any trouble what so ever attaining sufficient sheeting tension at 1:1, as in try it you'll like it at least on the 5.0. Not sure it would work on the larger boats with larger jibs.
-- Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC --