Any reason not to use my old rudder as a template to drill my new H16 rudder? Any tips or tricks? I know about the print out template but using my old rudder seems more straight forward

As long as the old rudder worked properly, then yes it is better than the paper template. I recommend screwing or clamping down at least two pieces of 2x4 or similar lumber to your work bench, one along the top of the blade and the other along the leading edge. Then put the old blade down on top of the new one and push them up against the 2x4 “stops.” This will ensure that the edges of the blades are lined up with one another. If you have a drill press, just mark the hole locations on the new blade and then use the drill press to drill the holes. If you’re using a hand drill, then you can use the old blade as a drill guide, but you will probably want to clamp both blades to your work bench so you don’t have to simultaneously hold the rudders and guide the drill.

sm



Edited by Dogboy on Mar 10, 2019 - 09:19 PM.

After you drill the first hole put a bolt thru both pieces so the space between the holes will be correct even if you are a bit off on exactly where the hole should be.

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go.

jalex

Any reason not to use my old rudder as a template to drill my new H16 rudder? Any tips or tricks? I know about the print out template but using my old rudder seems more straight forward

Yes, as long as the blades are the same shape. That's how I've seen a dealer do it on brand new EPO3's from EPO2's. Now I'm not so sure if you were replacing original 80's plastic blades with the latest EPO3's but it would probably work as long as everything lined up.

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Damon Linkous
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I have to do the same thing. After you drill the hole, over drill the hole, fill with epoxy and redrill. This will help any water seeping in between the fiberglass and encouraging delamination. And, it will help keep the rudder from wallowing the hole out. I even have placed a stainless (preferably bronze) bushing in the hole to help keep wear down on the fiberglass.

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Drilled new rudders, seem to be an identical match as my old ones. They won’t freely fall into the down position, the curved part of the rudder material rubs against the casting. They are new(used) castings. They are non adjustable castings, as were my old ones. Can I just sand the rounded edge of the rudder, or is this a sign of something else wrong?

jalex

Can I just sand the rounded edge of the rudder, or is this a sign of something else wrong?

I don't think you mentioned what type are the new blades?

If they are basic plastic then you can probably get away with sanding the blades if it's just a tiny bit of clearance you need. But if the new ones are EPO/fiberglass then don't sand away the gelcoat, you'll expose the fibers and screw them up.

Maybe you can grind a little of the aluminum castings instead? Need some other experienced with the non-adjustable castings to weigh in.

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Damon Linkous
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Not entirely sure what you mean by the curved part of the rudder is rubbing on the casting. There should be some resistance when lowering the rudder. It should not “freely fall” into position. You should have to lightly push the tiller arm back to get the rudder down and then engage the upper casting with the cam.

sm

Also not 100% sure what you mean by curved portion of rudder, but my advice matches Damon’s. If at all possible, sand/lightly grind down inner of casting to get it to slide with just a bit of resistance as Dogboy stated.
Sometimes the castings can bend ever so slightly and a light sanding will free up the rudder tolerance. Do NOT attempt to bend casting back. This is likely a recipe for disaster - not that anyone is suggesting that, just had a bad experience with a nephew on that issue.

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Not sure that a Hobie 16 lower rudder casting would “bend,” those things are pretty stout. But there has been some dimensional variation over the years with both the rudder blades and the castings. The rudder blades got a little thicker back when the original EPO’s were introduced in the mid-80’s. Some mild sanding to perfect the fit really shouldn’t be an issue as already recommended. If the sides of the blade are tight in the casting, put the blade on a flat surface and use a sanding block with some 100 grit paper to thin down the top of the rudder. You can also use some liquid silicone spray between the casting and the blade if things are just a little tight. That’s usually a good starting point if you’re nervous about sanding the rudder. Also be sure you don’t over-tighten the rudder pivot bolts.

sm

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"After you drill the hole, over drill the hole, fill with epoxy and redrill. This will help any water seeping in between the fiberglass and encouraging delamination"

+1 I agree if the boards are fiberglass (if plastic don't worry about this)

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Drilled new rudders, seem to be an identical match as my old ones. They won’t freely fall into the down position, the curved part of the rudder material rubs against the casting. They are new(used) castings. They are non adjustable castings, as were my old ones. Can I just sand the rounded edge of the rudder, or is this a sign of something else wrong?

IF the same size the issue is probably an overtightened on a bolt
If that isn't the issue - sure sand away but if you go more than a smidge ... you may need to reapply some gelcoat to seal it up from moisture (which as stated above will degrade the strength)

I'm trying to remember back 35 years ago when I got the Super Rudders. They were thicker and had a larger flat area than the plastic ones and I had to file/grind the castings to make them fit better at the bottom of the casting