The stays and trap lines are a mess during storage. I can put the rolled up trap wires in a short length of 4 inch pvc pipe. The heavier stays won't roll right enough to fit in that size. I am trying to keep them neat when trailering and mast raising for trap lined. Thanks.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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I would be careful about putting them inside any type of small tube. Bending the wires to too tight of a radius will weaken them. Kinking the wires needs to be avoided at all costs since a kinked wire should be immediately replaced.

My method for transporting the rigging avoids bending or coiling the wires almost entirely. I detach my wires entirely from the anchor points on the hulls and strap them along the length of the mast. The only issue with this approach is that the wires themselves extend beyond the base of the mast and would want to droop down at the end of the mast. So to address this issue, I fabricated a bracket that attaches to the base of the mast for transport. The bracket consists of a molded fiberglass section that matches the profile of the leading edge of the mast and attached to that bracket is a long post (chunk of old windsurfing mast) that extends beyond the mast base (sorry, no pics). The bracket attaches to the mast with a pair of nylon webbing straps.

The bracket gets strapped to the mast base and then all shrouds and trap wires are pulled down the length of the mast, attached to this bracket. Then the wires are strapped to the mast using bungee balls in a couple locations to keep them tight to the mast.

I’ve been using this process for several years and it works really well for me. The wires are kept in order and I never need to worry about coiling or kinks. This system also has the advantage that I can easily remove the mast from the boat as a complete package with the wires attached. This means that during rigging, I can easily take the mast off the trailer, pull the boat off the trailer, and step the mast with the boat on the ground rather than up on the trailer.

sm

I take everything off the mast. Its a bit of a pain but no real great way to avoid mast chafe otherwise.

I roll the trap lines on used 3D printer spools and coil the shrouds up individually but on the same shackle.

The other option that does work if done carefully is to pull the traps off the boat still, and coil the shrouds plus forestay onto the tramp, zip tied in 2 spots. 18" coils are about as tight as shrouds will go...

I remove the rigging and store in a separate bag that stays inside with the sails.
Makes rigging mildly more difficult. On the plus side, I get a chance to inspect everything every time I rig and de-rig, plus it helps maximize the service life. One other thing is stainless rigging and aluminum masts don't like each other and I've seen masts where the rigging has corroded the mast where it rested against it.
When I started though, I used to leave it all attached and coil the best I could without kinking and used plenty of zip ties to attach each individual coil to the footstraps. Worked flawlessly.

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Joshua

Texas Gulf Coast
'82 Prindle 16 (Badfish)
'02 Hobie Wave (Unnamed Project)
‘87 Hobie 18 (Sold)
‘89 Hobie 17 (ill-advised project boat, Sold)
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Dogboy

I detach my wires entirely from the anchor points on the hulls and strap them along the length of the mast.

sm

This is a neat idea. Well done.

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Joshua

Texas Gulf Coast
'82 Prindle 16 (Badfish)
'02 Hobie Wave (Unnamed Project)
‘87 Hobie 18 (Sold)
‘89 Hobie 17 (ill-advised project boat, Sold)
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I have found that if i carefully coil the sidestays and hiking wires, they will coil up. Once the mast is in trailer position, and bungeed to the mast and again to the web in the tramp it seems to work.
It looks like a mess, but once the mast is moved into raising position, it seems to work out. Just be careful to not stress the stays in a way they "Don't want to go". They do coil up into about 18in coil. On my H18 that is.No need to release anything other than headstay.



Edited by raisehull on Jun 25, 2019 - 01:54 PM.

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1978 H18
1983 H18 (some of it)
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if i had a new mast i might go the way of sam and remove the wires to avoid scratching up the mast

since i don't have a new masts .. i coil the side stay and trap wire into 2 or 3 large set of loops and use the ends of my jib 4-way adjuster line to tie up the 2 wires on each side

the forestay gets some slack (to reduce rubbing in transit) but end up secured to the mast base for transit

badfish

Dogboy

I detach my wires entirely from the anchor points on the hulls and strap them along the length of the mast.

sm

This is a neat idea. Well done.

Thanks. I snapped a few pics and posted in an album to clarify.

https://www.thebeachcats.…ictures?g2_itemId=131691

sm



Edited by Dogboy on Jun 25, 2019 - 04:12 PM.

I coil them up and clip them in with these to the hiking straps

Cable Cuff PRO (4 Pack: 4x Large 3 Inch Diameter) Adjustable, Reusable, Cable Tie Replacements for Extension Cords or Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N0S9JQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yPQeDb4YDGK6T

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Captain Chris Holley
Fulshear, TX
'87 Prindle 19 "¡Hijole!"
'74 sunfish "1fish"
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I trailer with the boat backwards on the trailer. About 3/4 down the length of the mast towards the front of the boat I wrap a shock cord around all the wires and they form a nice gentle curve going back to the shroud adjusters.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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I coil em up and put them into the after mast support and hold em with a bungee cord. I close the Hyfield levers and pin them shut.

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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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