We have a P-18 that was pitch-poled two days ago. one of the rudder castings was twisted loose from the hull and sheared off the bolts under the rudder gudgeons. There is nothing to grab to try and back out the old pieces of the screws, and we don't know what is inside the hull. Are there threaded metal plates or what? We were thinking there might be enough room next to the rudder mounts for a small hatch cover to be installed? This would help gain access inside, but any guesses as to what is in there?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated especially if you have already had this situation and fixed it successfully!

Ouch.

Would first attempt an extractor.
I thought I remember hearing they had metal plates. Could be wrong. It's happened once or 5 times.

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Joshua

Texas Gulf Coast
'82 Prindle 16 (Badfish)
'02 Hobie Wave (Unnamed Project)
‘87 Hobie 18 (Sold)
‘89 Hobie 17 (ill-advised project boat, Sold)
--

On our hobie we used a small die grinder with a thin cutoff wheel to make a screw driver slot in the broke off screw
It put a slight groove in gelcoat but it came right out with a flat screwdriver. YMMV
We were unable to drill into the screw for an extractor.

i am not all that familiar with P18's but i have to think they have a metal plate burried into the transom

most of the cats i have inspected do

What I have done in the past is to drill a hole in deck, then with a jig saw cut a pumpkin like lid by angling jig saw blade. Now you can get a hand down to fix problem. Later epoxy the pumpkin like lid down on deck & fill drill hole with epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Pete

it should be plywood

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Captain Chris Holley
Fulshear, TX
'87 Prindle 19 "¡Hijole!"
'74 sunfish "1fish"
--

There is an aluminum plate inside the transom that has tapped threads for the gudgeon bolts. I would
try and drill the bolt and use an extractor. Use a left hand drill bit and you might get lucky and have it
grab and back the bolts out. The bolts are most likely stainless and very hard to drill. You will need at
least one high quality drill bit. The key to drilling stainless is to never let it get hot. Once it does it will
harden and will be next to impossible to drill. Keep a lot of pressure on the drill bit and cool it constantly.
I have found water to be the best to cool stainless. If you see any smoke while drilling stop immediately
and cool it. If you can't drill it, I like carl's idea of grinding a screw driver slot in the bolt. Pete, that pumpkin
lid idea is a great one. I could see how that would work perfectly on the rear deck of a prindle.

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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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pbegle

What I have done in the past is to drill a hole in deck, then with a jig saw cut a pumpkin like lid by angling jig saw blade. Now you can get a hand down to fix problem. Later epoxy the pumpkin like lid down on deck & fill drill hole with epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Pete

That is a great idea.
*Feeling dumb that it never crossed my mind*

--
Joshua

Texas Gulf Coast
'82 Prindle 16 (Badfish)
'02 Hobie Wave (Unnamed Project)
‘87 Hobie 18 (Sold)
‘89 Hobie 17 (ill-advised project boat, Sold)
--

badfish

pbegle

What I have done in the past is to drill a hole in deck, then with a jig saw cut a pumpkin like lid by angling jig saw blade. Now you can get a hand down to fix problem. Later epoxy the pumpkin like lid down on deck & fill drill hole with epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Pete

That is a great idea.
*Feeling dumb that it never crossed my mind*

That or just do like the old sunfish owners did to retrofit the new rudders, install a 4 inch hatch

--
Captain Chris Holley
Fulshear, TX
'87 Prindle 19 "¡Hijole!"
'74 sunfish "1fish"
--