Hi all, would like to convert too a set of 500 sails on tje 5.0. Can anyone measure the distance from mast base to jib block? I want to match it exactly. It looks to be around 18 inches. Thanks.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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Great for having fun, but there isn't Portsmouth number for racing.

The jib comes down much lower (shorter bridles) and you'll need to add a foil so as to not overstress the hulls.

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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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I hadnt though of bridle length, will need to see what length a 500 uses to go with a new sail. The 500s i see images of dont have a bridle foil. I wondered if having a foil would be insurance for hull stability in rough conditions which happened alot this year.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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You have to consider this. The tack on the 500 jib was high and the clew low in order to create the correct sheeting angle because the jib blocks were located forward on the cross tube. I think the bridle was longer to help facilitate this. This was done in order to free up some of the sitting area. The blocks were on a track on the front cross tube that allowed some inboard/outboard adjustment. There was no way to adjust the sheeting angle without a way to move the blocks fore and aft. Some adjustment can be made with a three holed clew plate. A few inches difference in how high jib is will make a difference in sheeting angle also. The 5.0 did not have this problem because as you know the jib blocks are on a track at the inboard side of the hull. This was a more standard arrangement and probably more efficient. This is probably more information than you want, but if I were you I would save myself a lot of hassle and get a 5.0 jib.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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shortyfox

but if I were you I would save myself a lot of hassle and get a 5.0 jib.

+1 and reasonable from Whirlwind. Chip built one for me and my local tuning partner this year at $350 each and they are fantastic. The best part is that it has a leech line. I had him build it with a 5 hole adjustable clew plate since I don't have a track.

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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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I think the most relevant benefit is moving the jib attachment inboard for a closer angle, to point higher. It can also be achieved with a 4-way adjuster, or a simplified version of it, which is what I did on my old 5.0 (on day 2, didn't wait more than that) and then on my current 5.5.
But you screw with the open space on the tramp, which is one of the nicest features of the 5.0.
So I think that attaching the jib blocks at the front beam is a good idea. I considered it once for my 5.5, it just wasn't enough to justify spending money on a new jib. I might when I have to replace it.



Edited by Andinista on Dec 04, 2019 - 07:03 AM.