I was looking into a 12 inch piece of lined corrugated drain pipe as a sail tube. Its made by ADS IIRC The unlined stuff is pretty flimsy. I could use screw on 5 gal buck lids on the ends. Has anyone tried this?

Superior in CT gets $175 for a 20 foot section. Between two buyers, thats a decent price.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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Is the lining smooth enough to not abrade your sails and rudders?
Do you plan on putting a shelf/dividers inside?
Can you make the lids seal well enough to keep water out while driving and storing?
Will the usual sealants adhere to this material?
Can it be painted white (or your favorite color)?
Have you thought out attaching it to your trailer?
Is 10 feet long enough to have a section at one end for tools, life jackets, etc?

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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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I would recommend PVC. My sail tube is simple, 10 inch diameter sealed off with buckets at each end, bungeed for travel. Long enough for the sails in the bag and other items that I want to stuff in there. Smooth inside, no worries, and bolted down to the trailer.



Edited by martyr on May 24, 2020 - 02:02 AM.

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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Dual wall drainage pipe works great. Picked up a couple 15" cutoffs from a construction site. Turns out they are designed to plug into each other with a heavy duty gasket. The inside is smooth and slick. The Corrugated pipe will also take a large stainless band clamp for HVAC duct work that can be secured to wood, then clamped around the corrugation, locked into the slots. If I didn't get a large, locking sail box, I would have used it. However, it also works great to hang my main properly from the ceiling. The corrugated pipe is very stiff and relatively light.

Search sail tube or the like and you'll find some decent projects on this site. It'll work either with large pvc or corrugated. Just go for it.

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Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
Hobie 21se (sold)
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I'm getting the SC19 sorted out and assembled for the first time, so I'm dealing with this too.

I'm trying to store the main (which determines the min. length - at least 10'), boards (more than 5' tall!), and rudders (nearly 18" wide when halfway between raised and lowered). The way the boat is sitting on the trailer now is also a constraint; due to the hull shape (really deep up front, very round and narrow at the stern) I don't have enough clearance all the way back for a pipe large enough to hold this stuff.

So this time around I'm going with a length of 18" ID sewer pipe, but cut in half and hinged along one side on a flat solid base (I haven't decided yet whether I'll get a piece of Al or just use plywood. I should have enough clearance to swing it up 90 degrees. I've piled the rudders, then main, then boards on the floor and a 9" radius semicircle cut out of cardboard fits over it, so I think it's worth a go.

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Southern Alberta and all over the damn place.
*
1981 SuperCat 20 "Roberts' Rockets"
1983 SuperCat 19
TriFoiler #23 "Unfair Advantage"
Mystere 17
Unicorn A-Class (probably made by Trowbridge) that I couldn't resist rescuing at auction.
H18 & Zygal (classic) Tornado - stolen and destroyed - very unpleasant story.
Invitation and Mistral and Sunflower and windsurfers w/ Harken hydrofoils and god knows what else...
--

I install a 14" round X 10' long aluminum spiral pipe on my Hobie 21SE trailer back in 1989. Built myself two end caps, one that is sealed made as an inside fit and the other goes over the tube and has two stainless steel suit case latches so it can be locked. I glue some red silicon rubber inside the removable end cap to make it water tight.

One my 16 trailer, built a 10' long "mail box" out of 1/8" aluminum walk plate. One end cap is welded and the other is just like a mail box door with a gasket Two sets of sails fit on the shelf and there is a redwood tray 10' long under the self for my rudder assemble. This sail "tube" was built in 1985 and still looks new.

I am not very internetee a word that Damion coined some time ago so I can't post some photos on this platform. I can post some on Facebook if anyone wants to see my setup. I am better with a hammer....

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Bill 404 21SE
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Bill is more careful than I am. I had to make a hatch near the closed end of my sewer pipe sail tube. I kept losing stuff way up there and couldn't get it back.

BigWhoop

Bill is more careful than I am. I had to make a hatch near the closed end of my sewer pipe sail tube. I kept losing stuff way up there and couldn't get it back.

Mine is closed off as well. I just extend the the tiller and pull out whatever climbs it's way to the front. A
quick pin through the end of the tiller will pretty much hook onto anything.

--
Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
--

jonathan162

So this time around I'm going with a length of 18" ID sewer pipe, but cut in half and hinged along one side on a flat solid base (I haven't decided yet whether I'll get a piece of Al or just use plywood. I should have enough clearance to swing it up 90 degrees. I've piled the rudders, then main, then boards on the floor and a 9" radius semicircle cut out of cardboard fits over it, so I think it's worth a go.

After talking to the pipe disties and manufacturers, they pointed me at the local construction companies as a possible source of a broken and unusable (read: free!) section of sewer pipe. A couple of phone calls later one of them came through with a length of (green) 18" ID SDR-35 pipe, nicked at one end.

Here's the thing: I should have been tipped of when buddy forklifted it into my truck, but this stuff is heavy. Really thick wall. Most of the data sheets don't list the weight, because that doesn't matter to the guys spec'ing sewer pipe. 20 lbs./ft, it turns out, making this piece about 250 lbs., and a real PITA to handle. Even after cutting it lengthwise and lopping a foot or so off the end, this is going to be a 100 lb. lid. I still think I'm going to (probably piano-) hinge it along one side, but now I think a couple of gas shocks would be a worthwhile addition.

Thoughts?



Edited by jonathan162 on Jun 05, 2020 - 05:59 PM.

--
Southern Alberta and all over the damn place.
*
1981 SuperCat 20 "Roberts' Rockets"
1983 SuperCat 19
TriFoiler #23 "Unfair Advantage"
Mystere 17
Unicorn A-Class (probably made by Trowbridge) that I couldn't resist rescuing at auction.
H18 & Zygal (classic) Tornado - stolen and destroyed - very unpleasant story.
Invitation and Mistral and Sunflower and windsurfers w/ Harken hydrofoils and god knows what else...
--

I got this thing built to a basically usable state. Anyone interested can see a couple of pics in the photo galleries under "Half-tube sailbox".

--
Southern Alberta and all over the damn place.
*
1981 SuperCat 20 "Roberts' Rockets"
1983 SuperCat 19
TriFoiler #23 "Unfair Advantage"
Mystere 17
Unicorn A-Class (probably made by Trowbridge) that I couldn't resist rescuing at auction.
H18 & Zygal (classic) Tornado - stolen and destroyed - very unpleasant story.
Invitation and Mistral and Sunflower and windsurfers w/ Harken hydrofoils and god knows what else...
--

here's what i did. it's double-walled and smooth inside. the locking mechanism isn't bullet proof of course but a deterrent, but then what sailbox is impossible to break into?
j

HDPE pipe
15" or 18" x 20ft HDPE pipe can be purchased at Menards & other Big-Box stores. Mine cost $162 so when I cut it in half each tube was $80. Light weight and water proof. ends are painted plywood.
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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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