I'm bringing a 1983 Nacra 5.0 back to life and could use some advice. The backstory - The boat belongs to a very good friend who hasn't used it in years. We agreed that I could do what I thought needed done to get it in good shape and we would share ownership which I think is fair. Even if I had bought it from him and invested further in the boat I would have let him use it any time he wanted so it may be a win/win. The hulls are dirty but solid, no soft spots or leaking, the sails are showing their age but very usable for recreation sailing. I'm replacing the standing rigging and the tramp. Replacing the tramp is pretty scary on this boat because you have to remove the crossbeams . The existing tramp has a bolt rope on the front beam and back beam and another that slides in a track on both hulls. I bought a tramp from Slo Sails which has a bolt rope on the front beam and on the sides but uses sail slugs on the back. SO long story to get to my question - How many sail slugs do I need to slide into the back beam and how long is the 3/4 pvc that slides into the back of the tramp to lace up to the sail slugs? Also any advice on loosening the bolts holding the beam on? That's my biggest fear that one of the captured bolts/nuts in the hull give way and I can't get the beam off. Thanks in advance for any advice and sorry for the long post!
Shawn



Edited by Shawn on Aug 15, 2020 - 10:04 PM.

Is this a saltwater boat? What year?
The 5.0 had several variations of front beam assembly. Newer ones have a half moon chock inside the beam that prevents rotation, earlier ones used studs.
Try to tighten, just slightly the bolts, then loosen, maybe 1/8 turn. Work the bolt back & forth a bit. Hopefully they were greased upon assembly.
There should be small vinyl pads under each beam strap, between strap & hull. The bolts may not be fully compressed against this lad or hull,Mathis is normal. You can cut away this pad, & use something like PB Blaster, or any other good penetrating solution,(my favourite is a 50/50 mins of automatic transmission fluid & acetone), to soak the bolts before trying to remove them.
I’ll measure the PVC tube & slugs this morning. The plastic slugs are better than the metal ones used earlier on my 5.7, they were quite small, & made lacing the tramp a chore.
Make an album, post some photos of your project.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

It's a freshwater boat. 1983 solid fiberglass. No beam straps but it does have the half moon chock inside the front crossbeam. Looks like a bolt going through the chock into the hull in the front and in the back studs coming from the hull into the beam with a nut on top. I tried to create an album but crashed, i'll try again later. Thanks!

With a nut on top, its easy to get penetrant onto the fitting, or even apply heat to the nut if required.
The tube on our 1988 5.0 measures 72", however, don't get too hung up on that, its not a critical measurement. Just measure between the hulls, right at the rear end of the tramp tracks on the hull, subtract an inch from that measurement. As long as the tube fits between the hulls you're good.
As for slugs, look at the new tramp you purchased. You need one slug for each cutout in the tramp. The photo of our '88 5.0 uses eyes riveted onto the beam. They are easier to work with, as there is much more room for lacing the tramp. (Make sure you buy very low stretch line). If you use slugs like on the spare beam for the '84 5.7 (pictured), you need a fairly thin line in order for it to go through each slug twice. You might want a couple of extras, placing one at each end of the beam as an anchor point for the lacing.
My Dart uses slugs, but they are larger than the ones on the NAcra. If you have a choice go for the larger ones, WAAAAYYYY easier to lace.
Again, look at the tramp you bought & see if that makes the most sense. Depending on how Slo fabricated the edge, you might not need the extra at each end.




Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 16, 2020 - 12:12 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Thanks Edchris. That picture is particularly helpful. The tramp has shipped so next weekend I'll get it replaced as well as setting up the new standing rigging. Hopefully the beam bolts come out without drama. I'm probably going to drive out there every evening this week and give the bolts a good PB Blaster soaking. I've also setup an album where I'll try to document the process - Shawns_Boats.

I should have shown the end of the beam with the slugs. There is an eye strap riveted on at each end, to dead end the lacing. That means I only have 7 slugs on the beam.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Here is an end view of my 1983 Nacra 5.0 front beam. The boat only had 1 beam chock per side when I got it. I added a second per side just because...



Also, there are two different types of chocks, with boss and without boss. You need at least one with the boss at each corner to prevent rotation.

edchris177

(my favourite is a 50/50 mins of automatic transmission fluid & acetone)

+1 on the acetone/ATF don't waste your time with the other stuff.



Edited by leeboweffect on Aug 19, 2020 - 01:05 PM.

--
Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
--

leeboweffect

Here is an end view of my 1983 Nacra 5.0 front beam. The boat only had 1 beam chock per side when I got it. I added a second per side just because...



Also, there are two different types of chocks, with boss and without boss. You need at least one with the boss at each corner to prevent rotation.

edchris177

(my favourite is a 50/50 mins of automatic transmission fluid & acetone)

+1 on the acetone/ATF don't waste your time with the other stuff.Edited by leeboweffect on Aug 19, 2020 - 01:05 PM.

Thanks for all the advice. I've got everything I need to get started now I just have to find time. I was hoping to do it Saturday but we'll see.

Sorry in advance for the long post. I was able to get the tramp and standing rigging replaced today. Everything went really smooth but it still took most of the day. I had planned on taking a bunch of pictures and doing a write up but that didn't work out. I was working on it at my sailing club mostly by myself and the best place to work on it was a somewhat inconvenient spot for others, so I wanted to get it done as quickly as possible.

My main thought after getting it done is that with these older NACRAs you're either going to get lucky or you're not. I got lucky. Once I had the mast down and removed from the boat I got to work on unbolting one side of the beams. The factory spec for the nuts in the beams 16-18 ft lbs. 37 year old boat so I had no idea how many times the tramp had been replaced and if the torque specs were used when reassembling. This was the scariest part for me.

I used a torque wrench set to 15 1/2 ft lbs so when loosening the nut I wouldn't twist a stud out if they were over torqued. I got lucky - the previous owner torqued them to spec and put grease on the bolts. They came out easy! Once I got the old tramp off it was just a matter of being patient getting the new tramp in place. I threaded the bolt rope through the front beam, re-bolted down the front beam after lathering the bolts with anti-seize. Next I slowly worked the side bolt rope through the side slots, and then used the rear lacing kit to tighten. After that I made another run at tightening the tramp and got it in good shape. I plan on sailing it a few times and then tightening again.

Replacing the standing rigging is a pain in the butt for me. Getting it set up on the mast is no problem but I didn't know what hole in the shroud adjuster to start with. Raised and lowered the mast 3 times before I decided to just go with the top hole and then use a friend and the trapeze wires to tighten up the rig and get it just right tomorrow. That wore my butt out. My wife was my fore stay crew for bringing the mast down and re raising it, but the rest of the day I was working by myself and I definitely feel my age!



Edited by Shawn on Aug 22, 2020 - 11:34 PM.

You should only have to raise the mast once. Leave the side stays loose, or once you know the settings, leave one at its loosest point, the other pinned where you need it.
Raise mast & pin the forestay where it’s needed. Then with your friend on the opposite trap line, pin the loose side stay where you need it.
Remember, the forestay pin point is not to adjust tension in the rig, it serves to determine mast rake.
If you ares tiring mast up, write the settings & procedure down, so you don’t have to experiment next season.
As part of the “over 60 Club”, I too sometimes suffer from CRS, & prefer to minimize the workout.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Shawn

re-bolted down the front beam after lathering the bolts with anti-seize.

If you used Permatex how long did it take you to get it off your hands, shirt, pants, car, family etc.? The stuff really really works (and much better than grease) but the overhead of clean up is high. I have found if you get it on your clothes it won't come out



--
Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
--

leeboweffect

Shawn

re-bolted down the front beam after lathering the bolts with anti-seize.

If you used Permatex how long did it take you to get it off your hands, shirt, pants, car, family etc.? The stuff really really works (and much better than grease) but the overhead of clean up is high. I have found if you get it on your clothes it won't come out

Tef Gel - same consequences for touching it and the msds is full of bad things - https://www.tefgel.com/co…n.php?param=tuffgel_msds

MN3

leeboweffect

Shawn

re-bolted down the front beam after lathering the bolts with anti-seize.

If you used Permatex how long did it take you to get it off your hands, shirt, pants, car, family etc.? The stuff really really works (and much better than grease) but the overhead of clean up is high. I have found if you get it on your clothes it won't come out

Tef Gel - same consequences for touching it and the msds is full of bad things - https://www.tefgel.com/co…n.php?param=tuffgel_msds

I'm not sure the brand but I used the little pouch that you can get at the auto parts store near the spark plugs and yes it was still messy!

Quote

I'm not sure the brand but I used the little pouch that you can get at the auto parts store near the spark plugs and yes it was still messy!

dielectric grease ???? if so, it is an anti-seize product but wouldn't be my first choice


tef-gel and lanicote are much more common in my experience

I used dielectric grease on electrical components



Edited by MN3 on Aug 25, 2020 - 09:09 AM.

MN3

Quote

I'm not sure the brand but I used the little pouch that you can get at the auto parts store near the spark plugs and yes it was still messy!

dielectric grease ???? if so, it is an anti-seize product but wouldn't be my first choice


tef-gel and lanicote are much more common in my experience

I used dielectric grease on electrical componentsEdited by MN3 on Aug 25, 2020 - 09:09 AM.

I don't think it's dielectric grease. The package says "Thread Magic" anti-seize lubricant" and has a picture of a bolt. It was a messy grey metallic grease. I may look up the spec sheet and see if I need to revisit.

gotcha - i hadn't heard of that - i looked it up - looks fine to use to me.

Edchris177

With a nut on top, its easy to get penetrant onto the fitting, or even apply heat to the nut if required.
The tube on our 1988 5.0 measures 72", however, don't get too hung up on that, its not a critical measurement. Just measure between the hulls, right at the rear end of the tramp tracks on the hull, subtract an inch from that measurement. As long as the tube fits between the hulls you're good.
As for slugs, look at the new tramp you purchased. You need one slug for each cutout in the tramp. The photo of our '88 5.0 uses eyes riveted onto the beam. They are easier to work with, as there is much more room for lacing the tramp. (Make sure you buy very low stretch line). If you use slugs like on the spare beam for the '84 5.7 (pictured), you need a fairly thin line in order for it to go through each slug twice. You might want a couple of extras, placing one at each end of the beam as an anchor point for the lacing.
My Dart uses slugs, but they are larger than the ones on the NAcra. If you have a choice go for the larger ones, WAAAAYYYY easier to lace.
Again, look at the tramp you bought & see if that makes the most sense. Depending on how Slo fabricated the edge, you might not need the extra at each end.
Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 16, 2020 - 12:12 PM.

Thanks again for the pictures and advice. I cut my PVC tube to 72" and it was just right.
Shawn