Can someone with a Nacra 5.0 measure from the top of the mast ball to the top of the main beam?
Here's the backstory - A couple of weeks ago I dropped the mast so I could replace the tramp and install new standing rigging. I knew to rotate the mast before dropping it to avoid bending the dolphin striker but somehow ended up bending it anyways and just finished installing the replacement. When I tried to raise the mast the forestay was too short and we couldn't re-attach. The rigging is new from salty dog and labeled for a Nacra 5.0 but it just seems short. When I installed it with the old dolphin striker it still seemed the rigging was short and we were barely able to get the forestay attached. With the new striker rod installed we were not able to attach the forestay. I bought the 9/16" by 14" striker rod from murrays and the top of the mast ball sits just under 4" above the top of the beam. This looks high to me but I followed the procedure and installed the striker with about 3/8" of preload. Not sure where I screwed up.

I don't know if this will help you or not. Did you by any chance replace the mast base as well? I bought a new Nacra 500 back in '06 and had the same problem. After consulting with Nacra (they were in CA at the time) we determined that the mast base was not for the 500 but for one of their larger models about an inch taller than the one supposed to be on the 500.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Our 5.0, an ‘88 model is sitting at 3”, give of take a bit. The DS measures 14”, again give or take a bit.
Is it possible Salty Dog assumed you had roller furling?
That would result in a shortened forestay.
The simple solution is to simply pin a 7 hole stay adjuster between your bridal & forestay. That will give lots of adjustment for rake.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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shortyfox

I don't know if this will help you or not. Did you by any chance replace the mast base as well? I bought a new Nacra 500 back in '06 and had the same problem. After consulting with Nacra (they were in CA at the time) we determined that the mast base was not for the 500 but for one of their larger models about an inch taller than the one supposed to be on the 500.

This could be it. The boat originally had the old non-captured mast base with a smaller ball and rod. Somewhere along the line it was replaced with the newer mast base/striker rod/ball. Ir's obviously the NACRA mast base but I have no idea if it's the one that's supposed to go on this boat.



Edited by Shawn on Sep 07, 2020 - 09:00 PM.

Edchris177

Our 5.0, an ‘88 model is sitting at 3”, give of take a bit. The DS measures 14”, again give or take a bit.
Is it possible Salty Dog assumed you had roller furling?
That would result in a shortened forestay.
The simple solution is to simply pin a 7 hole stay adjuster between your bridal & forestay. That will give lots of adjustment for rake.

Good idea. i have a couple of extra 10 hole stay adjusters. I'll just use one of those so I can get it on the water. I probably have through October to sail and maybe a little bit into November so I'm anxious to get some sailing in before it's too late.
Shawn

You can also tie the forestay with 3mm or so dynemma or any decent line, with several loops. No big deal. It's easier to adjust rig tension. You might need to do it on the shrouds too if the mast rake is excessive, which you will feel on the helm.

Andinista

You can also tie the forestay with 3mm or so dynemma or any decent line, with several loops. No big deal. It's easier to adjust rig tension. You might need to do it on the shrouds too if the mast rake is excessive, which you will feel on the helm.

Shawn,
While it may occur to you that Andinista is taking Crazy Pills, I assure you he is not.
This technique is called a Portuguese Windlass and is used to this day by Dart 18 ocean racers.
If you prefer something more metallic, and a shackle is involved at the end of your forestay, you could utilize a forged extended D shackle to lengthen your forestay about an inch.


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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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klozhald

Andinista

You can also tie the forestay with 3mm or so dynemma or any decent line, with several loops. No big deal. It's easier to adjust rig tension. You might need to do it on the shrouds too if the mast rake is excessive, which you will feel on the helm.

Shawn,
While it may occur to you that Andinista is taking Crazy Pills, I assure you he is not.
This technique is called a Portuguese Windlass and is used to this day by Dart 18 ocean racers.
If you prefer something more metallic, and a shackle is involved at the end of your forestay, you could utilize a forged extended D shackle to lengthen your forestay about an inch.

I think the Gcat 5.7 I used to own used a Portuguese system. The bridle wires attached to a ring and then you'd tie a line from the forestay as described above and give it a few wraps around the ring and through the forestay eye. The problem with the Nacra 5.0 rigging is that the bridles end in small forks and the forestay has a nicro pressed ( I think that's the right terminology) very small eye so I don't know how I'd get the extra line wraps necessary. I'm just going to run with the extra stay adjuster and see how it goes. I liked the Gcat system better.
Shawn

Quote

The problem with the Nacra 5.0 rigging is that the bridles end in small forks and the forestay has a nicro pressed ( I think that's the right terminology) very small eye so I don't know how I'd get the extra line wraps necessary. I'm just going to run with the extra stay adjuster and see how it goes. I liked the Gcat system better.

The nicro press has a hole large enough to get a bow shackle pin through. Make sure you center the pin before tensioning. You can use the tailing end of the line to attach the jib tack but make sure you pass it through the ring or shackle at the apex of the bridle first so the pull won't loosen the knots.

--
Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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The center of the ball on mine is 2.5 inch from top of beam. This is prob half inch taller than the stock one that got bent.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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ctcataman

The center of the ball on mine is 2.5 inch from top of beam. This is prob half inch taller than the stock one that got bent.

Interesting and that's about how high I feel it should sit. Sounds like yours sits about an inch lower than mine. Did you use the 14 1/2" long 9/16" rod from Murrays or is this the older 1/2" diameter rod that's 12 1/2" long?
Shawn