The PO switched my tiller connections to a H16 style bolt for unknown reasons. When I got the boat it came with welded proper connectors. I swapped it back yesterday it the rudders are toed out. There is a burr in the aluminum threaded adjuster that will take a 3/4-16 tap to clear, but even with that minimized I won't achieve neutral toe. Are these adjusters aftermarket? Do I need to cut down the cross bar by maybe an inch?

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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Don't exactly understand what you've got, but I'll take a stab at it (pix would help).

Are your tillers straight in line with the rudder castings, or do they slant like a Hobie 16? If the latter, perhaps you got the assembly reversed when you swapped it out? (Looking from behind the boat forward, H16 tillers must slant inboard....reverse results in excessive toe out.)

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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By H16 connections I mean just the bolt and spring setup. Pipes overlap. My tillers are straight.
My adjuster looks kind of like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/…le-End-Cap-/151045562707
I found another thread that seems to indicate I need to cut down the crossbeam for it.

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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Most of the Nacra's, certainly the modern ones, have fixed tiller crossbars with little/no adjustment. So to install an adjuster system like that, you will need to shorten up the crossbar. A Pipe Cutter works wonders for cutting tubular aluminum FYI.

rch701

My adjuster looks kind of like this.

That's a Prindle part. The Nacra version looks like this:



And yes you will have to cut down the tiller connector if you can't achieve the toe in you desire with the amount of adjustment you have. The trick is to cut down the tiller connector such that zero toe in/out is at the center of the available thread. For me that's about one inch exposed thread, one inch thread up in the female part. I assemble the male portion to the tiller connector with epoxy and one 1/8" aluminum rivet and it's plenty strong. No need to go crazy or weld it on as I've seen some do plus you can remove it and reuse it with a bit of effort.

The adjustable end caps are getting hard to find and are no longer offered new. If you really want a fast boat and I know you do, search eBay for one of the very rare Ackermann end caps.



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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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That is what I needed to know. Thanks. I may source some tubing and make bent tillers for that last ounce of speed.

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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Someone correct me if wrong, but the bent tiller tubes, (akerman angle) don't make the boat faster when sailing a line. They give differential rudder movement while turning, to correct for the inside hull travelling a tighter radius.
Here is what it looks like, (N5.7). Notice also the hillbilly fix, using a bit of wire to prevent the U-joint (where the tie bar connects to the tiller arm ) from locking your steering in certain situations. I think I was careful to take the photo with the rudder aligned to hull.
They do make a different connection fitting, but I was in a hurry & saw the fix posted here, so I did it with wire.
That was 6 years ago...I promise, I;m still looking into the other fix.


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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Re-drilling mine for upgraded end fittings now! (N5.7)
Was curious about toe/adjustment.
Thx for pics/ideas!

The new urethane tendon setup is also worth considering. After sailing with this- it is smoother and self-centering. You adjust the toe based on where the sheet metal screw goes into the tendon.

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David
Inter 20
Southern Maine
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David, your pic isn't pulling up for some reason. Would love to see it. Is this what you are talking about? https://www.murrays.com/p…rt-tiller-joystick-flex/. Trying to figure out how to make this work as I have to keep tightening the current swivel setup.

Thanks,

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Steve
Nacra Inter 20
Okemos Michigan
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Steve,
I had tried to include a photo of the I20 and current NACRA setup. But your photo is better- I believe this is done with the Falcon F16. Hopefully this link works. http://www.theboatshop.be…011-09-12%20%28EU%29.pdf
Page 20
If the link doesnt work- it is the F16 Falcon assembly manual
The Falcon F16 does not require as much of a bend as the nacra while maintaining the Akerman angle.
Thanks

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David
Inter 20
Southern Maine
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dcwhite

The new urethane tendon setup is also worth considering. After sailing with this- it is smoother and self-centering. You adjust the toe based on where the sheet metal screw goes into the tendon.

You are talking about something totally different. Robert is talking about a legacy 5.2. The Inter tendons will not work on the legacy rudder arm/tiller crossbar.

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Philip
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I have considered what the Falcon has. Looks like two tiller extensions urethan joints. Would be easy to fabricate. For now I'll keep the stock setup and shorten the crossbar to center the adjustment. My Trac 14 had tendons and they were awesome. Does make the boat tend to sail away from you if you fall off though.

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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Your boat sails away from you with neutral tiller. You can increase a windward helm to round-up the boat by increasing mast rake or moving the rudder adjustments out to keep the rudders farther from the stern. I have a neutral helm and just plan to hold on, but the boat will sail nearly indefinitely without input. I sometimes change the helm to round-up if sailing bigger water.

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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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