Any suggestions for a motor mount besides a cheeta bracket .I don't want to drill any holes in the rear cross bar. Thanks

You will have to figure a way to ratchet strap, hose clamp, or weld a mount to the cross bar. With the kind of forces a motor can impart, a strap or hose clamp mount could be problematic. I bolted my Cheata mount on, it has posed no problems.

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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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I would make sure it is fail proof. The last thing you want is a motorized blade spinning where you didn't expect it to be and/or motor controls where you cannot access them.

James ex-USN SAR

The cheeta bracket is usually mounted with stainless rivets. I don't see the holes weakening the cross tube enough to worry about. If you decide to remove it later put rivets back in the holes. If you're talking gas outboard, get the lightest one possible, 2hp is plenty. Todays 4 stroke outboards are heavy and you'd be best off trying to find an old 2 stroke. With any bracket it has to be some distance aft of the cross tube so as to not interfere with passing the hiking stick around. The cheeta pivots up nicely to get the propeller completely clear but if you accidently let go of it when lowering it, it will put a tremendous load on the bracket. On a smaller cat like the 5.2 you will find you need to get your weight way forward when single handing because the motor is sticking out so far aft.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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My Cheeta mounted with one 3/8-16x6 SS hex head cap bolt and a Nylock nut. Straight through the cross tube.

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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Quote

The cheeta bracket is usually mounted with stainless rivets. I don't see the holes weakening the cross tube enough to worry about.

I don't really agree. 4 3/8 holes in the middle of your spar can reduce the structural integrity. The center of the spar is where most of the stress of sailing is (upwind we are sheeted to center majority of the time). we are putting 100's lbs of "pull"on the center of the spar and cycling it over and over. this isn exactly what causes stress fatigue in metals

ss bolts and alum spar = galvanic corrosion/ aka rust. Esp in salt water

Many people have used cheta mounts without issue but i prefer to be aware and prep to avoid the worst.

i would do everything i can to isolate the ss from the alum (nylon or neoprene washers)
i would also use generous amounts of anti corrosion goop . I prefer lanacote or tef gel

If it was me: i would go so far as to put some type of aum plate or bar or tube inside the spar to help spread the loads. this is the same thing the builder does inside the front beam to spread out loads

I had my spars repainted last year. my spar pro said i was very close to catostrophic failure due to unseen corrosion under the paint.

I am pretty good about washing down the boat after use - didn't stop it. (I do sail in the gulf/salt)

As per weight. You can't buy a new 2 stroke in the US
A new tohatsu 2.5 is the same engine as the 3.5 - both 41 lbs.

I have an old 3.5 2 stroke but i won't use it - they are dirty and i don't care for burnt oil / gas in the same waters i eat out of .. i would say if you care about the enviroment you shouldn't consider a 2 stroke

when i flush my 2 stroke out in a barrel *(white pvc 55 gal) they it leaves a gross 3" ring of oil around the barrel. after i saw that i purchased a 4 stroke for my alum V bow and wont sell the 2 stroke - ymmvEdited by MN3 on May 03, 2021 - 02:33 PM.



Edited by MN3 on May 03, 2021 - 02:38 PM.

dup



Edited by MN3 on May 03, 2021 - 02:36 PM.

https://cheatabrackets.com/
That Nacra bracket looks just like the mount on my Super Cat.
It uses one bolt. It looks like the Prindle bracket uses pop rivets.

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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Thanks everyone I was looking for something BESIDES a cheeta bracket. I looked today and probably make two collars to go between the hulls and the track with it keyed on the track and with an crossbar going across connection both hulls and a extention to the transom that way I can remove it when not needed.
something along this thinking..

https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=57851&start=75

looks good - only comment is the further back the engine is, the worse the weight will impact your sailing

I tried something similar once, the problem being that whatever you build, not only will you have to tilt the motor up when not in use but the motor bracket itself has to pivot up as well sort of like the brackets you see on monohulls. If not, waves will surely hit the lower unit of the motor when you are sailing. And don't forget, what ever you come up with, that motor will have to be far enough aft so as to not be in the way of your hiking stick when you pass it around the mainsheet. All in all, who ever designed the cheeta took all of these factors into consideration. "If it works, don't fix it."

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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