I'd like to thank everyone who commented on my last post, y'all are immensely helpful.
I've run into a new batch of issues that I lack the wisdom to resolve.

First, I need to drive this thing 8 hours down to Houston and the rubber rollers have become stone rollers.

I worry that the hulls will not survive a long trip on these things, even if I add some cushioning.
I plan to replace them, but I want to do it in the most logical way possible for such a long drive. I recently joined my college's sailing club and at their facility is a Hobie 16 sitting on four bow stops instead of rollers.

The point of contact for the bow stop is much larger than the rollers which should be easier on the hulls. The only issue would be getting it off the trailer, but it's not a heavy boat.

Has anyone done this? Is this a viable option, or am I losing my mind?
also, any advice for conquering such a long journey with a 41yr old boat and a stickshift jeep would be appreciated!

Once again, apologies for not knowing what the hell I'm talking about and thank you in advance for your help.

What kind of boat?

One concern would be that you will lose the side roller guides, which means that if the tie-downs loosen up, the boat could potentially hop off of the bow stop and start to come off the trailer. I also think that your concern about being able to easily get the boat on or off the trailer may be valid. It may be difficult to slide the boat on a solid piece of rubber.

In the past, for symmetrical hulled boats, I have used pieces of large diameter PVC pipe (probably about 10” diameter) cut into about one-foot lengths and then sliced in half length-wise to form a pseudo-cradle. Then screw two pieces of 2x4 to the bottom with a gap in the middle so the cradle can slip over the roller and the pieces of wood keep it from sliding out forward or aft. Throw a piece of carpet on it and you have hull protection from the roller.

In a pinch, you can substitute a piece of 2x6 for the PVC pipe. It’s not quite as nice as a semi-circular cradle, but still a lot better than the point load of a single roller.

sm

I've done a small piece of carpeted plywood with 2 2x4s on the other side that fit over the roller dhugly, then tied it on. Worked in a pinch...but then again, I when I traveled back from Florida, I bought 4, heavy duty rubber backed outdoor floor mats from Wally world and tied them on when one set of my cradles cracked from the crappy I-10... It actually worked very good.

--
Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
--

I would avoid spending the cash on bow stops. For trailering I agree with Charles...I think. Lift the boat and stuff a 2x4x~12" long between the roller and hull. Duct tape the wood to the hull and strap it down. It will greatly increase the area loaded. Don't get crazy on the strap tension.
I removed my rollers and made 8ft long carpeted bunks from a 2x8 with a 1x6 screwed to the inside edge (think L-shape profile). There are lots of ways to skin this cat. The only "best way" is double rollers at the stern and FG cradles on the bow.

--
FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
--

In my experience the best solution is to have front cradles and rear rollers. The rear rollers take less load and make much easier to load and unload the boat.
The easiest or cheaper solution is to add something in between for the road trip, like a pvc pipe section
Those bow stops are better suited for a Hobie 16 or a Nacra 500, not for your more rounded hull, unless you find something with the right shape. You would need to lock rotation somehow, if they turn it will be messy. Perhaps a round bow stop. I would just replace the rollers for the daily use. and If you fear damaging the hull on the road, add some protection.



Edited by Andinista on Feb 22, 2023 - 10:49 AM.

Quote

Has anyone done this? Is this a viable option, or am I losing my mind?

not only is this not enough surface area, these bow stops don't last all that long and will mark up your boat with black streaks on the side

Always prep for the worst case scenario and hope for the best. how would these hold up in an accident or sudden stopping?

I would stick with rollers, or cradles

for temporary/emergency use, its whatever gets the job done. The Job being distribute the weight over a larger area using something that won't Mar the hulls. Hence my plywood concoction or outdoor floor mats just to get home. My trailer has triple rollers in back and large cradles upfront for the reasons stated. Only Thing is, with large potholes, the weight of the boat can punch through the fiberglass cradles...so, you do what you have to go get home. Triple rollers because my boat's a little "fat"

--
Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
--

charlescarlis

for temporary/emergency use, its whatever gets the job done. The Job being distribute the weight over a larger area using something that won't Mar the hulls. Hence my plywood concoction or outdoor floor mats just to get home. My trailer has triple rollers in back and large cradles upfront for the reasons stated. Only Thing is, with large potholes, the weight of the boat can punch through the fiberglass cradles...so, you do what you have to go get home. Triple rollers because my boat's a little "fat"

I think Ill end up doing something like this. Thanks for the advice

My H16 is on rollers, and the rollers are not cushy, nor do they conform to the hull. I have traveled long distance with no problem (except placing poorly in races - maybe I now know the real reason).

Most H16s are on such rollers. The more expensive cats and the H18s (I think) have better support.
I don't see where in your post you state your boat type. So maybe contact the manufacturer for specific guidance.

--
Ted
Hobie 16
South Carolina Lake sailing
--

Here is a thread from a few years ago. There are some links on how I modified rear rollers to support an H18.
I used an idea from Dogboy. They cost almost nothing, (go to any subdivision construction site & you can pick up a scrap of sewer pipe for free).
https://www.thebeachcats.…nc=viewtopic&topic=17289

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

josephou

I'd like to thank everyone who commented on my last post, y'all are immensely helpful.
I've run into a new batch of issues that I lack the wisdom to resolve.

First, I need to drive this thing 8 hours down to Houston and the rubber rollers have become stone rollers.

I worry that the hulls will not survive a long trip on these things, even if I add some cushioning.
I plan to replace them, but I want to do it in the most logical way possible for such a long drive. I recently joined my college's sailing club and at their facility is a Hobie 16 sitting on four bow stops instead of rollers.

The point of contact for the bow stop is much larger than the rollers which should be easier on the hulls. The only issue would be getting it off the trailer, but it's not a heavy boat.

Has anyone done this? Is this a viable option, or am I losing my mind?
also, any advice for conquering such a long journey with a 41yr old boat and a stickshift jeep would be appreciated!

Once again, apologies for not knowing what the hell I'm talking about and thank you in advance for your help.

I use those exact V-Rollers on the stern for Franken. They work well on distributing the load. I have to use soapy water on the hull undersides to slide the boat on easily. I set-up and everything singlehanded so it is a bit limiting. I do have a block and tackle to slide it on the trailer.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--

I've used a 4" bow stop in the front for years (Hobie 16 and Nacra 5.0) with no problems, rollers in the back with a piece of 1/4" cutting board between the boat and roller after loading. As mentioned above a black rubber version of the stop, like I'm using, will leave occasional small black streaks on your hull, but a non-marking version of the 4" bow stop is available,



https://www.amazon.com/St…4-Bow-Stop/dp/B0000AXTD5

Right now with my boat inverted for maintenance I'm making a custom set of cradles, "the ultimate"





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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
--

I have been using the V-shaped bow stops on Franken's trailer for 9 years now. The biggest downside is getting the boat off the trailer by yourself. Take a spray bottle with soapy water and it slides much easier. I also have a block and tackle that I use to pull the boat off and on the trailer. I do agree that the black stops can mark the hull, as with Franken I don't care, but you can get the clear/yellow ones that do not mark the hulls. Many people will have the cradles forward and rollers aft. When they go to travel, they will place cradles over the rollers to distribute the load. Do keep in mind that if a hull sits on a wet bunk with carpet, the hull has a possibility to blister. This is a huge issue with keelboats and the pad stands. standing water is never good.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--