I bought a Prindle 16 and it may have the wrong halyard. Can someone tell me the distance from the halyard shackle to the halyard stops swaged onto the cable? What I have fully raised the first stop won't reach the Halyard lock (Fork). My boat is the older version.

2nd question, looking at Murrays, the P-16 halyard it sounds like the older version uses part Wire cable and part rope where the newer is all rope. How does the halyard lock/fork, on the mast work with rope only?

https://www.murrays.com/product/02-2274-00/



Edited by thaniel on Jun 16, 2023 - 07:10 PM.

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Prindle 16 (early version, no ports)
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I show 26" and 76". Can't comment on the main halyard configuration for the newer boats.

-Matt

I know Hobie used all-rope halyards, but I can't recall that being mentioned in the Prindle context. Even the Prindle manual - which seems to mostly reflect the newer boats - mentions the wire + rope config.



Edited by westmatt on Jun 16, 2023 - 05:59 PM.

Let's be pragmatic. With the mast off the boat or with the boat simply laying on its side, look and see how far off the halyard stop is from laying in the hook.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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westmatt

I show 26" and 76". Can't comment on the main halyard configuration for the newer boats.

-Matt

Thank you so much. What I have has them at 13.5 and 57.5 so definitely not for this boat.

westmatt

I know Hobie used all-rope halyards, but I can't recall that being mentioned in the Prindle context. Even the Prindle manual - which seems to mostly reflect the newer boats - mentions the wire + rope config.

Agreed. I looked at the images in the Prindle manual (newer boats) and it shows a cable halyard. That statement on Murrays must not be right.

shortyfox

Let's be pragmatic. With the mast off the boat or with the boat simply laying on its side, look and see how far off the halyard stop is from laying in the hook.

I ran the halyard all the way up and the clevis hits the sheave at the top before the 2nd stop is even to the fork (first stop is the reefing point). I couldn't see that being right and was wanting confirmation that I was looking at things correctly before replacing or modifying parts.

Thanks all. Hoping to get this boat back in the water this weekend if the weather is good.

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Prindle 16 (early version, no ports)
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To be sure, I would set the boat up, mast up. Pull it down off the trailer. Raise the main as much as you can go. Flip the boat over and see exactly how far it needs to go. Take pictures. I have a couple of riggers here in the Kemah area that can easily build these. I have done many over the years; I actually still have my nicro tool. You can go with nicro presses or a swage ball stop. The swage ball stop will be more and it's a cleaner look. With a small hand nicro tool, you can do this yourself.

Ping me if you have any questions.

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Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
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Quote

o be sure, I would set the boat up, mast up. Pull it down off the trailer. Raise the main as much as you can go. Flip the boat over and see exactly how far it needs to go. Take pictures. I have a couple of riggers here in the Kemah area that can easily build these. I have done many over the years; I actually still have my nicro tool. You can go with nicro presses or a swage ball stop. The swage ball stop will be more and it's a cleaner look. With a small hand nicro tool, you can do this yourself.

Good advice, to do it with the sail. The reason I say this is because where the bolt rope is cut at the top of the headboard might be your limiting factor rather than the thimble at the end of the halyard. When you take your old halyard to a rigger to have it copied be sure and give it an extra inch where the swage goes. I don't think you can do a ball stop yourself (also called an aircraft fastener) because it takes a special tool that creates tremendous pressures. I think it's a better way to go because copper swages have been accused of slipping but I think that is more likely because they were done improperly. One thing though that I've experienced with the copper swages is that very rarely they will catch on the outside of the hook and when you crank down on the downhaul they will pop loose with a lot of force. If yours is prone to doing this, you can eliminate this from happening by rotating the mast back and forth before using the downhaul.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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shortyfox

Quote

o be sure, I would set the boat up, mast up. Pull it down off the trailer. Raise the main as much as you can go. Flip the boat over and see exactly how far it needs to go. Take pictures. I have a couple of riggers here in the Kemah area that can easily build these. I have done many over the years; I actually still have my nicro tool. You can go with nicro presses or a swage ball stop. The swage ball stop will be more and it's a cleaner look. With a small hand nicro tool, you can do this yourself.

Good advice, to do it with the sail. The reason I say this is because where the bolt rope is cut at the top of the headboard might be your limiting factor rather than the thimble at the end of the halyard. When you take your old halyard to a rigger to have it copied be sure and give it an extra inch where the swage goes. I don't think you can do a ball stop yourself (also called an aircraft fastener) because it takes a special tool that creates tremendous pressures. I think it's a better way to go because copper swages have been accused of slipping but I think that is more likely because they were done improperly. One thing though that I've experienced with the copper swages is that very rarely they will catch on the outside of the hook and when you crank down on the downhaul they will pop loose with a lot of force. If yours is prone to doing this, you can eliminate this from happening by rotating the mast back and forth before using the downhaul.

You're correct on the ball stop... it takes a special swage die and we have one guy that has those dies. To me, I would buy a small hand nicro crimper. I saw that Amazon had some, but I could not find the bolt style. If you do this yourself, be sure to mark on the wire where the jam hook is, add about an inch and then press from your mark down away from the shackle. If you go the other way, the nicro sleeve will compress towards your shackle and thus shortening the distance between the stop and the shackle. Even if you add 2", it will not be a killer. It will actually make it easier to get in/out of the jam hook.

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Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
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Thanks. Good information. The current plan is to mark the halyard at the distances westmatt provided and raise the sails see how that looks. There is a lot of rain in the forecast (it is raining today) so waiting for a nice day.

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Prindle 16 (early version, no ports)
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