Hi all,

I bought a Nacra 5.2. It is my first cat and am cleaning it up. However, another member at the club pointed out that the mast is from 5.0 and not 5.2. Seller had been sailing it per his report. So, my questions are

1. is it ok to sail 5.2 with a 5.0 mast? I guess if the seller was sailing it should be fine but I know very little about the cats.

2. Mast base has one lip and not two. I will post a picture as well It looks as if one lip from the casting has broken off. Is that a concern apart from cosmetic?

3. I want to change the shrouds and the forestay just to be on the safe side. They look ok apart from one or two frayed wires and a bit of rust but don't mind just changing them. Shrouds were 19ft long and were attached to hull through 2 shroud adjusters daisy chained instead of one. Forestay is 18ft 7". So, do I buy the 5.2 shrouds and forestay or since it is a 5.0 mast, should I buy them for 5.0

It had a little booboo on one of the hulls and I managed to repair that with fiberglass and epoxy.

Hoping to buy a righting line too - will any 0.5" deck line do?

Thanks and sorry for the assortment of questions.




Thanks

Sorry but the ibb.co is not loading the images.

As far as the mast goes, if it works don't fix it. The mast base however is broken. Someone probably lowered the mast without turning it 90 degrees. You can probably still sail with it but be very careful raising it and lowering it. Without seeing it though, it's hard to say for sure. If any wires are frayed with the standing rigging, replace them. Have rigger copy the old ones.

--
Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
--

Hi Bill

Thanks. So, those lips are there to prevent it from going sideways or slipping forward when raising? Also, I didn't get a pin to put in the mast base while raising - I never raised the mast so far! So, this is all theory. From what I read, you put the mast and turn it sideways, put it on the mast base and then put the pin, then raise it. So, if the mast base lip [is that what it is called?] is broken, I may not be able to put the pin either right!

I plan to raise once and leave it as the cat is at my local sailing club and I can leave it there raised. The missing lip won't affect the function once it is raised?

As for the shrouds and forestay, I can either order 5.0 or 5.2 but don't know which one to get! Trying to find the length specs for both so I can decide.

You can tell a newb!

Thanks

tarch,
I have owned both a N5.0 & 5.2. That mast base looks like a Hobie 16 that was modified. The broken piece is the hinge pin connection for getting it up.
Does your mast have diamond wires? Do you have a 5.2 sail, and does it hoist up all of the way?
Only one pictured link worked for me.

--
FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
--

Hi rch701

It does not have the diamond wires. I will check the sail that came with it and take some pictures. So far, I have not tried hoisting up as I was thinking of doing it after changing the shrouds and forestay.

Also, the image links are odd - if you click on them they don't open but if you right click and choose open in a new tab they work!

tarch

Hi rch701

It does not have the diamond wires. I will check the sail that came with it and take some pictures. So far, I have not tried hoisting up as I was thinking of doing it after changing the shrouds and forestay.

I agree with rch701 that the mast is a H16, especially if it doesn't have diamond wires.

Short answer, yes, it is fine to sail a boat with a different mast and rigging. I have a modified Prindle 18-2 that is built from 10 different catamaran designs. The mast ball on the beam is standard Nacra and with a (possibly) H16 mast, stepping and unstepping will be a challenge. The Nacra has the "lips" as you have said that will hold the mast on the ball when stepping and unstepping. I don't know the extrusion differences; the idea is to find a Nacra mast base and change them out.

I would say use what you have and enjoy the boat. The smaller mast will still give the boat some spunk when the wind is over 10 knots. Typically, when it's under 10, it's not as exciting. This mast will give you more sailing range for when the wind picks up, the boat will still easily be controllable.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--

We have an N5.7 & a 5.0. Both have Diamond wires. Keep looking around, you should be able to find a 5.2 mast cheap. Quite a few of old/wrecked 5.2’s around. I had a spare 5.2 mast from a wrecked boat, but that was 10 years ago, I gave it away.
The Hobie mast, (I broke the pivot on my H18), is very easy to break if you let the mast swing sideways at all while raising.
At the top of the page, to the far right, is a FAQ section. There is a link there that will show how to load photos. Make yourself an album, & load all your photos there.
As mentioned above, if you see a single frayed wire in standing rigging…replace it.
There are some good albums here showing what people have done with the 5.2.
I have one on early Nacra rudders & how they are rigged. Also an album on the 5.7, much of the boat parts are the same or similar enough that you can figure out how yours should go together.
The 5.2 used two different mast balls. Early ones were smaller, IIRC 1.25”, later ones larger, along with a larger diameter dolphin striker rod. I have an album in TECH, how to make a new striker rod for cheap.
Yours looks like the early model, it has the Center bar dividing the tramp. It’s there to prevent the front crossbar from rotating with mast loads. Many don’t like the “shin basher” effect & remove it. Easily done, but you MUST rivet the crossbeam straps to prevent rotation. There are several threads/albums from those who have done it.
Pressure test your hulls, look in TECH albums, I built a tester for $1. You want to find out if your dagger board trunks leak, (or any other part of the hulls). Also make sure your mast is sealed, lots of threads on that…if not, it will take on water when you dump it, & be nearly impossible to right.
Near the end of TECH albums, Damon has a couple of assembly albums from the early Nacras. You can download the entire manual as a PDF.
Lastly, don’t get wound up on making it pretty. Lots of threads here of new owners want8 g to paint/gelcote/decals etc. Get it in the water, & sail the hell out it. It’s way more fun than working on a hangar Aueen
I’m pretty sure I have an extra Nacra mast base in my spare parts



Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 07, 2023 - 12:55 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Hi Scott

ok that is reassuring. I was kicking myself for not learning more before biting but it was cheap so can't complain.

I saw your signature - Frankenkitty. May be I should name mine, Frankenacra

In fact, it is probably better that it is underpowered for my skill level.
Thanks

And another follow up on it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144998065618
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144951547642

The above two should be ok for the replacement right - shrouds on the boat are 19ft and the forestay at 18.7

Thanks

Hi EdChris177

You are correct. I bought it to try and to learn cat sailing. I am not worried about it looks as long as it doesn't kill me and floats Once I know what I am doing a bit, I might come back for suggestions on what to get next but that is future.

I will look up on how to use albums.

I don't see any fray in the bridle but the forestay and the shrouds have some.
It is the older mast ball it seems - recall it measuring 1.25 in

Will a Nacra 5.2 mast base fit the Hobie mast? If so and you have one lying around - will you be willing to part with it?

Thanks

tarch

And another follow up on it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144998065618
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144951547642

The above two should be ok for the replacement right - shrouds on the boat are 19ft and the forestay at 18.7

Thanks

It will be close. I have a few local rigging companies here that can build them exact and ship to you. I would recommend against the vinyl coating. It looks nice for about 6 months, but it will hold water inside the wire and will expedite the deterioration of the wire. Go with bare wire.

May check eBay for a Nacra mast base. There is a local guy in Dickinson that stockpiles old parts and may have one. Let me see if I can find his website, all I have is a phone number.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--

Edchris177

We have an N5.7 & a 5.0. Both have Diamond wires. Keep looking around, you should be able to find a 5.2 mast cheap. Quite a few of old/wrecked 5.2’s around. I had a spare 5.2 mast from a wrecked boat, but that was 10 years ago, I gave it away.
The Hobie mast, (I broke the pivot on my H18), is very easy to break if you let the mast swing sideways at all while raising.
At the top of the page, to the far right, is a FAQ section. There is a link there that will show how to load photos. Make yourself an album, & load all your photos there.
As mentioned above, if you see a single frayed wire in standing rigging…replace it.
There are some good albums here showing what people have done with the 5.2.
I have one on early Nacra rudders & how they are rigged. Also an album on the 5.7, much of the boat parts are the same or similar enough that you can figure out how yours should go together.
The 5.2 used two different mast balls. Early ones were smaller, IIRC 1.25”, later ones larger, along with a larger diameter dolphin striker rod. I have an album in TECH, how to make a new striker rod for cheap.
Yours looks like the early model, it has the Center bar dividing the tramp. It’s there to prevent the front crossbar from rotating with mast loads. Many don’t like the “shin basher” effect & remove it. Easily done, but you MUST rivet the crossbeam straps to prevent rotation. There are several threads/albums from those who have done it.
Pressure test your hulls, look in TECH albums, I built a tester for $1. You want to find out if your dagger board trunks leak, (or any other part of the hulls). Also make sure your mast is sealed, lots of threads on that…if not, it will take on water when you dump it, & be nearly impossible to right.
Near the end of TECH albums, Damon has a couple of assembly albums from the early Nacras. You can download the entire manual as a PDF.
Lastly, don’t get wound up on making it pretty. Lots of threads here of new owners want8 g to paint/gelcote/decals etc. Get it in the water, & sail the hell out it. It’s way more fun than working on a hangar Aueen
I’m pretty sure I have an extra Nacra mast base in my spare partsEdited by Edchris177 on Aug 07, 2023 - 12:55 PM.

Very good points on checking for leaks. I took an old hatch, cut a 2" hole where a 1" shop vac hose loosely fits. Soap the hulls very well and place the vac on exhaust. I have seen it done with one person simply blowing into the drain plug. You only need 1 lb of pressure. Typically, the back end of the board trunks will leak. MarineTex works great there.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--

Not sure what you have there but it's not a Hobie 16 mast base.
That's the exact opposite of a 16 mast base.

https://www.murrays.com/category/c-mr/

--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
--

nacra55

Not sure what you have there but it's not a Hobie 16 mast base.
That's the exact opposite of a 16 mast base.

https://www.murrays.com/category/c-mr/

Hi Nacra55

I have been trying to look at different mast bases and none of them have that tiny gudgeon type pin and the cavity for mast ball! Mystery mast base!!

texastuma

Edchris177

We have an N5.7 & a 5.0. Both have Diamond wires. Keep looking around, you should be able to find a 5.2 mast cheap. Quite a few of old/wrecked 5.2’s around. I had a spare 5.2 mast from a wrecked boat, but that was 10 years ago, I gave it away.
The Hobie mast, (I broke the pivot on my H18), is very easy to break if you let the mast swing sideways at all while raising.
At the top of the page, to the far right, is a FAQ section. There is a link there that will show how to load photos. Make yourself an album, & load all your photos there.
As mentioned above, if you see a single frayed wire in standing rigging…replace it.
There are some good albums here showing what people have done with the 5.2.
I have one on early Nacra rudders & how they are rigged. Also an album on the 5.7, much of the boat parts are the same or similar enough that you can figure out how yours should go together.
The 5.2 used two different mast balls. Early ones were smaller, IIRC 1.25”, later ones larger, along with a larger diameter dolphin striker rod. I have an album in TECH, how to make a new striker rod for cheap.
Yours looks like the early model, it has the Center bar dividing the tramp. It’s there to prevent the front crossbar from rotating with mast loads. Many don’t like the “shin basher” effect & remove it. Easily done, but you MUST rivet the crossbeam straps to prevent rotation. There are several threads/albums from those who have done it.
Pressure test your hulls, look in TECH albums, I built a tester for $1. You want to find out if your dagger board trunks leak, (or any other part of the hulls). Also make sure your mast is sealed, lots of threads on that…if not, it will take on water when you dump it, & be nearly impossible to right.
Near the end of TECH albums, Damon has a couple of assembly albums from the early Nacras. You can download the entire manual as a PDF.
Lastly, don’t get wound up on making it pretty. Lots of threads here of new owners want8 g to paint/gelcote/decals etc. Get it in the water, & sail the hell out it. It’s way more fun than working on a hangar Aueen
I’m pretty sure I have an extra Nacra mast base in my spare partsEdited by Edchris177 on Aug 07, 2023 - 12:55 PM.

Very good points on checking for leaks. I took an old hatch, cut a 2" hole where a 1" shop vac hose loosely fits. Soap the hulls very well and place the vac on exhaust. I have seen it done with one person simply blowing into the drain plug. You only need 1 lb of pressure. Typically, the back end of the board trunks will leak. MarineTex works great there.

Hi Scott and EdChris77, I will pressure test the hulls. Will be nasty if they get submerged as I launch!! I was there a couple of days ago and already sealed the mast - all the rivets, holes and the mast base/head castings with silicone from West Marine. However, I should test the thing with blower as you suggested.

I also got a hobie mast head float and am trying to figure a way to put it there.

Belts and braces I guess.

texastuma

tarch

And another follow up on it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144998065618
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144951547642

The above two should be ok for the replacement right - shrouds on the boat are 19ft and the forestay at 18.7

Thanks

It will be close. I have a few local rigging companies here that can build them exact and ship to you. I would recommend against the vinyl coating. It looks nice for about 6 months, but it will hold water inside the wire and will expedite the deterioration of the wire. Go with bare wire.

May check eBay for a Nacra mast base. There is a local guy in Dickinson that stockpiles old parts and may have one. Let me see if I can find his website, all I have is a phone number.

I looked on the ebay for Nacra mast base but none found at present. I will try craigslist too. Tried Facebook Marketplace but none there. I found a new one on murray's for about 130 or so. Will it fit the base of the mast I have though! Don't even know what mast I have

Becoming more complicated by the minute for a newb

But thanks to all the help

Yes,I would part with the Nacra base. PM me an email addy, I’ll send some photos,smith measurements so you can see if it’s close enough to work. Or send e a snail mail addy, I can trace the base & mail it to you.
Here is a cheap tool I made for pressurizing hills. You can do it solo, no need to have a helper hold a vac hose.
Click on the 1st photo, that will open the album, then Scroll through
https://www.thebeachcats.…69016d0dfc57be9ad61263c9



Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 07, 2023 - 08:57 PM.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

tarch

texastuma

tarch

And another follow up on it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144998065618
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144951547642

The above two should be ok for the replacement right - shrouds on the boat are 19ft and the forestay at 18.7

Thanks

It will be close. I have a few local rigging companies here that can build them exact and ship to you. I would recommend against the vinyl coating. It looks nice for about 6 months, but it will hold water inside the wire and will expedite the deterioration of the wire. Go with bare wire.

May check eBay for a Nacra mast base. There is a local guy in Dickinson that stockpiles old parts and may have one. Let me see if I can find his website, all I have is a phone number.

I looked on the ebay for Nacra mast base but none found at present. I will try craigslist too. Tried Facebook Marketplace but none there. I found a new one on murray's for about 130 or so. Will it fit the base of the mast I have though! Don't even know what mast I have

Becoming more complicated by the minute for a newb

But thanks to all the help

Fair enough. To measure the mast, get a caliper or good eyeball and tape measure. You'll measure the fore/aft and the side/side. For simplicity, the OD will work as one can measure the OD of both masts and see how close from there. The wall thickness of the two masts will be close, probably 1/16". I will be at an event this weekend where I can measure a 16 mast and a Nacra mast. I believe the old Nacras, 5.2, 5.0, 5.7, 5.8 and 6.0 use the same mast base. I can take some #s and let you know.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
--

texastuma

tarch

texastuma

tarch

And another follow up on it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144998065618
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144951547642

The above two should be ok for the replacement right - shrouds on the boat are 19ft and the forestay at 18.7

Thanks

It will be close. I have a few local rigging companies here that can build them exact and ship to you. I would recommend against the vinyl coating. It looks nice for about 6 months, but it will hold water inside the wire and will expedite the deterioration of the wire. Go with bare wire.

May check eBay for a Nacra mast base. There is a local guy in Dickinson that stockpiles old parts and may have one. Let me see if I can find his website, all I have is a phone number.

I looked on the ebay for Nacra mast base but none found at present. I will try craigslist too. Tried Facebook Marketplace but none there. I found a new one on murray's for about 130 or so. Will it fit the base of the mast I have though! Don't even know what mast I have

Becoming more complicated by the minute for a newb

But thanks to all the help

Fair enough. To measure the mast, get a caliper or good eyeball and tape measure. You'll measure the fore/aft and the side/side. For simplicity, the OD will work as one can measure the OD of both masts and see how close from there. The wall thickness of the two masts will be close, probably 1/16". I will be at an event this weekend where I can measure a 16 mast and a Nacra mast. I believe the old Nacras, 5.2, 5.0, 5.7, 5.8 and 6.0 use the same mast base. I can take some #s and let you know.

I have a calipers, so I can measure both inner and outer as well as the thickness tomorrow. If you get a chance and can measure that will be a great help too.

Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/PSuTgRL

Morning all

Above image is of my traveler. For a Nacra 5.2 from the 70s, how is it rigged?

Do I use the main sheet - pass the main through the fairlead, then the swivel cleat, then the eye on the car, then through the block behind the rear beam and to the eye on the beam?

Or do I use a separate line that forms a loop from the eye on the rear beam, through the block, then fair lead and swivel cleat, then locks on the eye on the car? then connect the main block from the boom to that separate loop on the traveling set up?

Thanks



Edited by tarch on Aug 26, 2023 - 11:48 AM.

Using the mainsheet for the traveler works well and seems to be preferred. I take it you were using the three strand nylon just to get a measurement. You might consider using a six foot piece of line of smaller diameter tied to the end of your mainsheet and have that part go through the swivel cam cleat, the traveler car and tied off to the pad eye on the rear beam. The reason I say this is the smaller diameter will work much smoother but you'll still have the larger diameter on the mainsheet to help your grip. Another reason is where the two lines are tied together, it will act as a stop knot and prevent the traveler car from shearing off the stops that are on each end of the traveler.

--
Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
--

Why not make use of the Nacra Owners Manual instead of asking all these questions, no rocket science involved ?

--
Brgds
Lars

Frankentri 5.8/5.5/Inter20
Aerow trimaran foiler

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1192604934176635
--

shortyfox

Using the mainsheet for the traveler works well and seems to be preferred. I take it you were using the three strand nylon just to get a measurement. You might consider using a six foot piece of line of smaller diameter tied to the end of your mainsheet and have that part go through the swivel cam cleat, the traveler car and tied off to the pad eye on the rear beam. The reason I say this is the smaller diameter will work much smoother but you'll still have the larger diameter on the mainsheet to help your grip. Another reason is where the two lines are tied together, it will act as a stop knot and prevent the traveler car from shearing off the stops that are on each end of the traveler.

Thanks Bill. I will try the second method and see. It is 3 strand nylon.

revintage

Why not make use of the Nacra Owners Manual instead of asking all these questions, no rocket science involved ?

Hi Lars

Fair question. Just that a lot of stuff including shroud connections and mast appear to be non-standard.