Prindle 16 How to rig the jib ?

Hi, my friend just got an older prindle 16 in pretty good condition, except for the trampoline. The P-16 has not been rigged/sailed in many years but looks to be complete with some extra spare parts. My friend does not have any cat saling experience and I only have 2 years experience on my H14T and H16. Neither of us ever sailed a P-16 and all we have as a reference tool is a copy of the Prindle 15-16-18 manual (not very detailed)

We were trying to rig his P-16 last week-end. Everything looked pretty good and similar to my Hobie Cats up to the jib set-up... We were struggling on figuring out how to rig the jib.
First question: the forestay looks to be too short (and the briddles too long) to raise the jib completely. How long should the briddles be? Where should the jib hailyard pully be attached (pigtail, inline with forestay, other...)?
Second question: we could not understand how to attach the jib blocks to the trampoline. There seems to be 2 short pigtail to attach to the blocks but where to? Can anyone explain me this or make a small diagram...

third and last question (for now icon_biggrin ): where is a good place to buy a new prindle 16 trampoline? or would it be better to get a local sail guy to make one using the old one as a template?

Thanks for any help you can give me on this. I look forward on trying this Prindle 16. It will be fun icon_lol





edited by: BeavenX5, Jul 30, 2008 - 10:33 AM
First the tramp, a new one can be purchased from www.slosails.com for about $220 good quality tramp for the money. Second, jib blocks do attach to the two short pigtails and then take a 1/8 or 3/16 line and tie one end to one of the pigtails end then run through the grometts in the center of the tramp to the other pigtail end, snug it up and tie it off. The series of grommets have a purpose, the further aft are for heavier winds and furthe forward are for light winds, you can probably keep them in the middle all the time if you are not racing. Third, the jib, the very early models of the P-16, boats in the 70's had a jib system just like the H-16, they changer later on to a zipper luff jib, let me know which you have and I can help.
Thanks for the quick reply.
If I understand correctly, the jib blocks are only attached to each other with the short pigtails and a short 3/16 line. They are not tied to the hull under the trampoline like my Hobie 14 turbo? This means the blocks will lean sideways away from each others?

I beleive the P-16 is a late 1970 model as it does not have the inspection holes in the hull. The jib is not the original (it is newer, all white and very crisp) and does not have a zipper like shown in the manual. The forestay and haleyard system looks similar to the H16 but somehow the forestay looks too short for the sail lenth ??? and the briddles looks longer than they should.
I rescued a 1975 Prindle 16 a couple of years ago that had rotted in someones backyard for 18 years. It was a 2 year project boat but well worth the effort.

I replaced the tramp on the boat and also purchased from SLOsail in California. Very reasonably priced but I noticed that they have raised prices this summer. You still won't find anything in the same price range. The tramp that I ordered did not fit. I called him up and explained the problem. He had a brand new tramp to me in 5 days along with a box and label to cover return shipping. A great product and excellent service!

Since I have an older version of the boat, I understand your frustrations with the owners manual which is for the newer models. It will work.

Jib blocks - the blocks are attached to the base of the shroud adjusters by a short length of stainless braided wire (jib bridle wire). Use a clevis pin to attach one of the thimbles to the base of the adjuster. Do this on both sides. Attach the jib block to the opposite thimble with a shackle. Then use the line demonstrated on pages 6 and 7 of the manual to tie the two blocks together, passing the line through the holes in the tramp. The picture on the center left of page 7 demonstrates this best. As for the jib clew blocks - I hooked the two together using a quick twist halyard shackle (with a guard pin). I locked the blocks within the guard and then can quickly clip the assembly onto the jib even in heavy wind.

Jib - This one took me a while. I got ahold of Stan at Murrays.com who is an expert with the older Prindles. He answered every question that I had. You might consider measuring your bridle wires and forestay and give him a call to verify that these are the right parts. If the boat is old, you will want to replace all of the standing rigging anyway (read the posts on this website regarding this topic!). Attached to the mast horn is a short pigtail called the upper forestay - about 12 inches long. It is connected to a jib halyard block and then the remaining lower forestay is attached to the other end. This attaches to the bridle wires through an adjuster. Within the center of the jib halyard block is a sheave (metal or synthetic) which the jib block wire rides around. One end of the wire attaches to the top of the sail and the other end attaches to a sheet which wraps around a cheek block at the base of the mast, through a down haul block and then to a cleat on the mast. The Hobie Cat manual (Jib sail section) demonstrates this best although you are problably familiar with it.

A lot of information, most of it from trial and error. I can get down to the lake and take some pictures of my setup if it would help. Let me know how it goes and check out Murrays.com for your supplies. They have never let me down. icon_biggrin





edited by: Prindle75, Jul 30, 2008 - 02:03 AM
Thanks Prindle 75. I think I understand better now how the jib blocks and the forestay works. I am currently in the city and will work on the P-16 with my friend over the week-end and next week during our vacation. I beleive he has 2 different sets of briddle wires, one shorter than the other. We will see which one works.

We beleive the boat has not sailed for about 10 years but all the wires are new. A previous owner had plans to get it rigged again but never got to it. The lines all need to be changed but this is easier.
Thanks for your help. I will let you know how we are doing with this project.