Hobie 16 and 14 sailor here. My son acquired an holder Hobie Club Wave that used to be part of a rental fleet. I have helped him refurbish it and we now have it in sailing condition. But there are still a few things we are working on with the rudder system and the main blocks.

The rudders seem to be extremely towed out.
- There does not seem to be any adjustability to the tiller crossbar, like you find on the H16. Do Waves have anything similar? Could old style H16 adjustment inserts be put into a Wave?
- Does anyone know what is the length supposed to be for the tiller crossbar? Wondering if ours got trimmed at some point, which is why the rudders would be towed out.
- The connectors between the arms and the crossbar are the tendon style, with bolts that screw into each side of a rubber tendon that resembles a windsurfer mast base. However, it seems very large at 3 inches long and resembling an hour glass. Is that stock or aftermarket?

With the blocks, galvanic corrosion appears to have hit the attachment for the main blocks on the rear crossbar. While the fasteners that hold the eyestrap are still attached, it is impossible to tighten them. The hole for one of the fasteners is almost as large as the head of the bolt, so I am not optimistic about that setup's long term viability.
- Anyone tackle anything like this? And how do you replace the backing plates that the eyestraps attach to?
- Here was my thought...I have some old 16 parts and am thinking of riveting an old style H16 jib track across back crossbar (14 to 16 in long) to have some fresh metal to attach to. It would use 6 rivets and 2 screws to secure it in place. I have an old H14 traveller car, the blocks would attach to, so no need for additional parts, except some rivets. Result,...a secure mainblock AND a modest traveller system.

Thanks in advance!

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2001 H16E (European Boat) Sail #108348 Cabo
1991 H14T
2006 Bravo
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A full width traveller is a common mod.

One of our clubs Waves has side specific tillers, it's hard to eyeball which side is correct until you measure toe of the rudders.

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John

Nacra 5.0
CT
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The point about the tiller arms is a good one. On the original rudder system with, aluminum castings, the tiller arms are handed and need to point inward. Otherwise you will end up with a huge amount of toe-in.

For the mainsheet pad eye, you can probably drill all the way through the crossbar and thru-bolt with a long #10 machine screw and nut. I did this with the main traveler strop on a Hobie 18 years ago and it worked fine.

sm

Thanks everyone! I didn’t notice if the tillers were side specific, but I have that on my 16. Maybe it’s very subtle and I will double check that.

Appreciate the thought of through bolting. That would definitely be another option.

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2001 H16E (European Boat) Sail #108348 Cabo
1991 H14T
2006 Bravo
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"Toe- out" is bad. Some toe- in is preferable but no more than a quarter inch. It will give your steering a more solid feel. Measure the distance between the the leading and trailing edges of your rudders.

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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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