Hey folks,
I want to get back into cat sailing after more than 20 years away. It seems like late 70s and early 80s Hobie 16s are selling for about the same price as in 1986 when I sold my Hobie 16 before heading to college.

Maybe my memory is failing me, but the question is: How do you appraise these boats? Are there some rules of thumb? I'm seeing everything from $1,000 to $2,500 for late 70s to mid 80s boats that all seem more or less the same to me.

Any clues would be appreciated! Thanks

This goes with all one design sailboats. Price depends on location, modifications, and obviously condition of the boat. With the Hobie 16, older models may be a similar price because those boats have new standing rigging, EPO rudders, or a nice trailer and the sellers try to factor this into the equation of pricing. If I were you, I would look at 1984 or newer (New Minimum weight) and because they are probably in better condition, though not always.
Always back away from soft-hulls no matter what the year.

i agree with all the above. condition and non soft hulls are critical. look for cracks in the aluminum... etc. that being said.. try and go for test sails with the owner of any boat you buy, it will show you alot about the boat. make sure the hulls are securely attached to the posts (no wobble) and the rudders and sails are in working order... cost should be around 1-2k for a good hobie16

Hey Guys,
Thanks for those replies. I appreciate it. Going for a test sale is a great idea, but not always entirely practical, especially if trying to snag an apparently good deal on ebay, for example.

Is there a list of all the mods, factory and otherwise, that can be made on a H16? Maybe the racing regs?

All things being equal, a big factor will be how far I have to drive to get the thing.

Thanks,
R

I wouldnt buy a car without a test drive. and you probably wont sink and drown in a car... i wouldnt put my life on the line and purchase a boat i dont know is sound.

i also would NEVER, (ever, ever) purchase a boat offline that i havent at the least spent 3 hours inspecing... pushing on the hulls for soft spots, looking at the sails for tairs or excess wear, looking VERY closely at the beams for cracks... making sure every inch of the boat is in order, or easly repaired.

Where as it may not be practical to go for a test sail, but it may save you $1000's and alow you to sail a boat instead of purchasing a boat that needs alot of work, and money and time and maybe even save you from buying a boat that is unsafe and save your life.

As per "all the mods". the hobie 16 forums at catsailor.com and hobie.com are probably the best place to ask as they are seen by 1000's of people everyday.

Andrew,
Thanks again for all that.
You are, of course, correct, about test sailing the boat. I guess if someone doesn't want to take you for a test sail, you should suspect something.

Another stupid question: is the ball on a Hobie trailer 1 7/8 or 2 inches?

not stupid at all...

the balls are typically 1 7/8th but it depends on the trailer... i have had 2" on my hobie18 trailer but that was an "after market" item. the guy who i bought it from had a drunk girl back up his trailer and (bad call) and she jack-knifed the trailer and he had to replace the stock part. i dont know why he didnt get the standard size one.. but i now have 2 balls... let me refrase that.. i now have a spare hitch ball... :)

As per the "test ride" even if its not possible to get the boat wet... at the very least you should put up the mast... and sails if there isnt alot of wind. This will show you how to rig the boat (bring a notebook and camera) and show you that it is mostly in working order...

even if it is all good... if the rigging is not brand new... its not a bad idea to replace the 3 stays (front and sides) and on hobies the side stay bolts (that attaches the stays to the sides of the hull) should be replaced every year or 2. My H18 mast bolt suddenly gave out while i was in the gulf of mexico and all my pals were 1/2 mile ahead of me. I was lucky they turned around and saw me. They came back and towed me to shore.

we rigged the side stay up with spare parts from a G-Cat. I now carry spare parts and tools (and a serious first aid kit).

andrew,

Again, thanks. I'll opt for 1 7/8 and not be too surprised if I happen to run into a 2.

Your story reminded me of the time I busted a shroud in the Gulf of Mexico. Boy, that sucked. Luckily neither my buddy nor I were hurt, but he was in the trap and was practically catapulted when the mast blew over.

I'm homing in on a few 16s within a few hours of my house. I've got an 82 advertised for $2000, an 84 for $2100 an 81 for $1,200 and a 79 (with tons of extras, including a spinnaker, trap harnesses and cat trax) for $1,500.

According to their owners, none of them have stress cracks or soft spots. I'm kind of leery of the '79, but it might be the best way to just get a decent boat to sail with my kids for a couple years before stepping up to a newer 16 or an 18.

Again, thanks for taking the time to help out.

Great, be sure to post pics of your new boat when you get her!

For me, one of the largest factors in buying a boat is the condition of the shrouds, thimbles, swages and rigging in general.
Unless you work for a marine company, the cost of replacing your rigging is crazy.

A good way to check the wires are to lay them out. Put a glove on and run your hand down the wire gently looking for crimps and frays.
Doing that without a construction type glove on is just asking for trouble.

I dont agree Breakwater....

unless my guy is undercharging everyone (i know he is cheaper than most, but not that much cheaper)... a new shroud with 1 swage and 1 nacrapress for my boat (8.5' beam and 30' mast) is about $35 each.
I know this because i just replaced one last week that i had a kink in that was fraying...

this is $100.00 to replace all 3.