[quote=Wolfman]1. Yes but leave the back casting for the bar in place. It's a nice place to put your foot while you are driving. Just adjust your hull alignment and rivet your straps to the bars. I did that and didn't look back.
2. About 18" inside the hull and between 2-4 ft from the rear beam giving you 2 ft of adjustability. It's easier if you mark where your old wires go on the tramp with some yellow crayon and the location of your blocks.
3. The helm shock cord should go under the tramp just rear of the daggerboard and through a strap eye on the outboard side fo the hull. I used nylon strap eyes to be easier if you sit on them. The front shoudl go through the front beam and can double as a hand hold to get back on the boat over the front. It also keeps it out of your way if you only single trap very often.
4. Buy the 2 double trap wires. Drill a second hole in the hound above the shroud attachement if you can't fit 2 shackles in the main hole. Or get a new hound.
5. Old system, use nylock nuts and nylon washers on the attachment to the tiller arms and tighten them so they are snug but allow a little bit of play. Or get the upgrade kit for $50+
6. If you have the old 1.25" ball then you want to get the newer base just becuase you can't get the old ones anymore. A full trapped ball base (i.e. it is captured all the time not just when stepping) isn't needed.
7. Just one big one aft of the mast. That is really all you need to hold your halyards, whistle and a couple of odd bits. Most everything else can go in the hulls. Might be nice to have a couple of pockets or stretchy straps sewn underneath facing the front beam to hold 2 collapseable paddles. Otherwise they are a pain to ferry around.[/quote]
No HTML tags allowed (except inside [code][/code] tags)
