[quote=Edchris177]Bummer to hear that Dave. Be VERY careful when trying to bring a flooded hull up on dry land. 1/3 full is a hell of a lot of weight, it is very easy to bust the hull. Early in my career I saw several airplanes sustain tens of thousands of $$ damage due to a leaky float. The owners panicked & tried to haul them out, & proved a hull full of water exceeds the design limit. You have an incline on your shore, best thing is to move them just a bit up the slope & pull the plugs, even with the drain still underwater.
The captive water will flow towards the back, & run out till the level in the hull is equal to the level outside the hull. Then move things a bit further up the beach. It takes longer, but you won't break anything.
Flip the boat,(remove the rudders, it's only 2 ring dings, or make sure they are straight out so you don't break one) & pressure test again.
Where you can see light might not be the leak. When I cut those 5.2 hulls, for the album, it was surprising how many places that were watertight showed light. If there are cracks in the skeg, Dremel the damaged material & pack with fibre/resin.
Crappy Tire sells marine Bondo with chopped fibre, or long strand fibre. An angle grinder makes quick work of damaged areas. Tape off so you don't have to clean up runs & drips.
The good news is flipping the boat is the hardest part. I've done it solo with the aid of a tree branch & mainsheet & blocks. If you elect to remove the beams & do it one hull at a time, build some sort of cradles to hold the hulls. I can email you a photo of some easy ones I built out of scrap lumber. You can have that ship back in the water by tomorrow!
It's been bloody hot here, & good to big winds most days. We pounded the fleet in 20-30mph last couple of days, only flipped 4 times, practising gybes in 20mph, it's a rush, those 19' hulls come around damn quick![/quote]
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