[quote=Edchris177][quote]So me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined wont have any issues righting it?
[/quote]
Correct, as long as you are athletic enough to be able to hike in a "plank" position. My buddy is 180lb, & it is not quite enough to solo right. I use a thick line, attached to base of mast. Just throw it over the hull, & hike. Test it on a calm day, you will find it helps to have some strategically placed knots. Seal the mast, the boat will sit on its side, with the top few feet of mast underwater.
[quote] One odd thing i did notice was how the main sheet merely used an open ended hook to fasten itself to the mainsail.[/quote]
Correct, it makes life really easy when solo. Heading to shore, have lots of slack in mainsheet,(just grab all the lines & pull the clew over if you need a bit more power to reach shore). Round up into the wind, pop the hook out of the clew plate, release jib, & hop overboard & walk the boat where you want it. The jib will flog, & the main will go to "null".
[quote]It also had some odd contraption on the forestay(for the jib i assume). [/quote]
Post a photo, it may be the 3:1 setup that the 5.7 came with.
[quote]But i think it may already have pivmatics?[/quote]
Yes, it does. Those cleats are the older plastic ones. The teeth tend to wear, resulting in poor grip of the line. You can drill out 2 rivets & change the jam cleat if required. Once they begin to slip, you can also extend the life by using a thinner line. It will go down further into the "V", where the teeth are still sharp. The ruddrs & castings are original NAcra. IIRC the bladed measure 36" from tip to the hole where the bungee line goes. They are longer than the boarded boat rudders.
[quote]what do i do about the tramp track separating from the hull?[/quote]
Drill out the old rivets, & replace with aluminum pop rivets, with a bit of silicone sealant. I did that after 2 years of pounding the heck out of my 5.7.
[quote]You need countersunk rivets so that the car will slide over the rivet heads[/quote]
Myy 5.0 did not have a track for the jib blocks, they were fixed in one spot. The 5.7 has tracks, but the alumijum pop rivets did not stick up enough to interfere with the jib car. Ron's advice of casings is good, the holes may be worn. You can bend a short piece of wire,(small hook at 1 end) put it in the hole, & ascertain how long of a shank you need on the rivet, IIRC I used 1/4". If you have a hatch & can reach inside, I would add a small aluminum washer to spread the load. You could even use a strip of aluminum inside the hull, drill the end hole, rivet it, then drill the next hole, rivet & so on. That way you don't have to worry about the hjoles matching up.[/quote]
