[quote=Edchris177]Just read your last post.
Your model was built just before they went to the "staps". Remove an end cap, the beam is either held by a half moon shaped chock, or two studs. Either way, softness in the white, just ahead/aft is serious.
The skeg are solid, especially at the skeg itself, with less as you go forward, or along the upward sweep at the stern. Use the edge of a thin wheel to grind any loose stuff out, fill with epoxy thickened with microfibres, then glass over.
Sails are Dacron
That type of spreader is tough to seal, the newer models use adjustable arms attached to a plate that wraps around the mast. As long as you don't turtle the boat, you won't get much water in, when flipped the spreader sits above the water.
On the Wet Coast it might be advisable to drill a 1/8" hole near the bottom of the mast so rain can drain. Put a screw, or small plug in while sailing, in case you turtle.
If you decide to proceed,(personally I wouldn't, unless I got if for $700), I would take it apart to fix. If it were only the bottom job, you could flip it. To do that chain plate, & soft decks/beam fittings, it is [size=large]way[/size] easier if you could an place the hulls upside down, or on sides as needed. Gravity is your friend.
We keep them mast up all season. I would not want to solo step the mast each day unless you use some sort of assist.
I am also 170 lbs, I need a righting bag, unless wind is 20 mph. My buddy (185lb), can right it with a garbage bag & a few gallons of water.
The performance is great, those hulls cut the waves like a knife. The ride is drier than my Hobie 18. They go upwind fine, but you have to be up at the front beam, get the lee hull down in the water, you really have to work to pitch pole the boat.<!-- editby --><em>Edited by Edchris177 on Sep 14, 2016 - 02:19 AM.</em><!-- end editby --> [/quote]