I've completely rewired my trailer and installed all LED lights, including the side markers. I will be hard to miss on the road at night!
I've also installed a new heavy duty lighting module on my Xterra, gives 7.5 amps for running lights (I have 11) and 4.2 amps for stop/turn signals.
http://www.towready.com/p…p?ProdID=119190&cat=1535
I'm now working on new PVC mast supports from front and back. I'm trying to come up with a simple design that can be home built by everyone with simple tools.
Any ideas on that would be appreciated.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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What have you done to get ready for the season?
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I like this topic Damen, It gets people to think about the things needed from last season.
I would like to build a lightweight box with a lid that we can carry down to our "catamaran cove" so we can store our things as we sail. I plan to drive piece of reinforcement rod down into the sand, then attach a cable to the rod. was wondering if anyone knows of plastic container with a hinged lid that would do the job. Should be be at least 4-8 cubic feet.
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Placed order for new rudder parts, jib sheets, plugs etc. Getting quote on furling jib assy and new jib.
Time to get cranking. -
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Patio boxes might be just what you need, they are designed for outdoor use and come in all sizes.
Here's a bunch.
http://www.nextag.com/box-patio-storage/shop-html
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Bought a boat....
and new standing rigging, some new lines, patched gel coat and replaced a handful of pins and connectors.
Only the half the lights on the trailer work so that is also on the list. -
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I will add wind & water sometime this weekend !!
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Here's how I built a rear mast support, take a piece of wire coat hanger and bend it around the mast on the sail track side, you should have a rough V shape. Take a 12" length piece of 6" diameter PVC and using a square draw a center line down the length of the PVC. Using the wire, transfer the V onto both sides of the center line, the open side of the V meets on the center line. Cut this shape out of the PVC, A Dremel would be handy, I used a wood saw. The mast will drop into this cutout V, the bigger the V, the deeper the mast will drop. Do not cut the V too deep, leave some support. On the opposite side of your cutout, remove a 3/4" strip the length of the PVC, this will fit over the rear traveler track. This track is 1" wide so the strip removed must be slightly smaller than 1", the tension in the PVC will "pinch" the traveler track. Place 12" length of PVC on traveler track making sure it is seated over the track, drop mast into the V, bungee mast to rear crossbar and presto, you have a PVC mast cradle.
Time making PVC cradle:- 30-45 min,
Cost:- had some PVC in my garage from a left over project.
This method is patent-pending, all royalties to be paid to myself.
edited by: turbohobo, May 09, 2009 - 01:49 PM
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TurboHobo
H14T
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P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Did you need the trailer light module once you installed the new trailer lights or was it more of a precaution? I know by doing an LED light conversion on my car that the LED's only use about 10% the power consumption of traditional bulbs. Haven't done LED trailer lights myself, but would imagine the power usage is also much less then traditional lighting.
As for me I got my boat setup this weekend but it was a little cold to use this weekend here in Chicago. Thankfully I have mast up storage on the beach for Lake Michigan sailing, so I don't use my trailer much anymore. I do have a H18 mast base question I will post in a separate post.
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‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
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We'd still smile if ya left out the 'sail' part
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Gotta Buy a spare tire for the trailer. Need a new traveler car. I would love to put a mesh deck on my trailer and move the catbox over so I have a little bit of space to pack some bigger camping items on the cat trailer.( I.e.. the wife's fancy camp stove and all it's many parts.
Tried mounting the boat in reverse on trailer. need to try stepping the mas this way using the trailer's front mast rest to support the mast. So far there are about as many cons as pros so it depends on if it makes enough difference in the actual mast raising as weather it stays or goes. That and I have to rig a new rear mast support if I leave it backwards.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
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1982 Prindle 16
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should get something with big wheels on one end to you can move it with one person if need be
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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It took me along time to try the "sterns to the trunk" trailer method... I had nightmares about dropping a mast on my lexus... but its about the only way to get my 30' 70lb monster up (without a jin pole).
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Actually I discovered that my old module had gone bad. It was supplying power to the running lights all the time, even with the lights off.
On most vehicles built in the last 10+ years I'd reccomend using a module vs the old way of drawing power from the tail lights. If you vehicle has anything like an indicator to tell you when a light has burned out, it's pretty much required. The only alternative is using the factory trailering harness if there is one, the Xterra has one availabe from Nissan but it comes with the big round 7 pin plug and I didn't want to use an adapter.
The modules get 12v power straight from the battery and only connect to the vehicle lights for signal. I'm sure you are right about the LED's drawing a lot less power. I'm just hoping they last a long time.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Great description, but there is an old "message board" saying that goes...
This Thread Is Useless Without Pictures!
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Damon Linkous
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