When stepping the mast for the first time (Nacra 5.2 1976) I found that with all shroud and stays tightened there was still too much play in the rig. All adjustments are a their maximum. Do I have to shorten one stay or can I raise the mast-step ball instead? Any other issues I need to think about here?
Thanks
standing rigging tension
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Posted: May 03, 2009 - 08:33 PM
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 04:30 PM
i doubt you need to shorten a stay... and you defiantly should not attempt to move the ball... unless you KNOW FOR SURE it needs it. I have NEVER heard of someone doing that to adjust stay tension.
I would bet you are missing something in the setup.. perhaps the side stays are on wrong? On the Hobie's there are 2 shackles atop the mast. the top one is for side stays and trap lines. the lower shackle is for the fore stay/jib setup.
How does the forstay attach?
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 04:57 PM
The forstay and both side stays are attached on the same shackle at the top. There is a small block for the jib halyard just below that.
Everything looks pretty much as it should be (no tangles or odd angles).
I will send a note to the previous owner for his thoughts.
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 07:00 PM
What makes your think there is too much play?
Have you rigged other cats or is this your first? (please fill out your profile)
Beachcats have rotating masts, so there needs to be some slack in the system or it wouldn't be able to rotate. If you are comparing it to the bowstring tightness of some monohulls that could be the "problem".
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 07:19 PM
Did someone add a roller furling to the fore stay? The mast ball height is determined by preloading the front cross bar. The rod should forced down by the bottom nut till the center of the cross bar is about 1/16" to 1/8" inch higher than the ends. The ball should be tightened till it bottoms out on the rod. -
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 07:32 PM
Here is the parts manual http://nacra.us/nacra/Nacra%20Parts%20(older).pdf
and here is the assembly manualhttp://nacra.us/nacra/nacra.pdf -
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Posted: May 04, 2009 - 08:09 PM
I should have mentioned that the Nacra 5.2 Manual is available here to browse, also to download.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=35217
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: May 14, 2009 - 06:38 PM
it's an old 5.2 so it would have come with non-captive mast base. with those the mast ball is very low on the beam. the newer style captive mast ball sits much higher, (allowing more mast rake i think)
on my 1982 5.2 pretty much all the rigging is factory and the stays are all about mid-hole for the mast to rotate smoothly
i can't see why you couldn't raise mast ball a little but it seems there must be some other problem with too long rigging somewhere
can you tip your boat over to measure your rigging and/or take some photos? -
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Posted: Aug 24, 2009 - 05:17 PM
Neil, I own a 1982 Nacra 5.2 with the old ball setup. My situation is that when I installed a newer replacement ball (factory old stock) - the ball and the threaded rod assembly sit up too high. In fact, I am unable to hook the forestay to the bridle. Since this was originally installed by the owner or dealer, it may explain that perhaps your ball/threaded assembly was improperly installed and is down so low, and with perhaps a worn ball, that you have excess play in the forestay and shrouds. According to my '82 owners manual, they recommend 12"-18" of mast rake. I am lowering my ball/assembly to the height necessary to achieve the right forestay / mast relationship. -
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Posted: Aug 24, 2009 - 10:17 PM
Neil, I have a 1981 5.2 with a new ball setup and it sits with about 2" of threaded rod showing below the ball and above the top nut. If you have the straight one bar spreaders (i.e. the spreaders are not raked behind the mast) then the mast should be setup almost straight up.
With the mast straight up the shrouds should clip into about the middle hole of the adjusters as should the forestay. It should then be taught but not guitar string tight.
The other end of the shrouds attach to the lower hole high up on the mast, the trapese wires go to the higher hole.
If all this doesn't work than likely your shrouds aren't sized for the boat. It could be that the person who owned the boat before you replaced the shrouds with some from a 5.7 or 5.5 or a Hobie 18.
IF THEY ARE IN GOOD SHAPE! It shouldn't be a huge deal to have the shrouds shortened. Hopefully there is someone who can do it for you if not you can get a nicopress swaging kit from Murray's marine for about $30.
You can't just shorten one shroud though you have to have both shrouds the same length. Another word of caution is that when you shorten them you lose about 6" cutting off the old oval installing a new thimble. Use two crimp type wire locks (i.e. nicopress ovals) not one of those bolt-on types they sell at the hardware store, they will break.
Chances are that if the shrouds are older, you should probably replace them anyway. Murray's sells them presized and vinyl coated.
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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