Ok so this was kinda dumb but I figured maybe it will help other new people be less dumb.
When I bought my Prindle 18 last year it just had a basic D shackle for the main sail halyard. I didn't think anything about it I had no Idea what it should be. At some point I was thinking I was making a great improvement and bought a really nifty quick release shackle thinking to save time rigging.
I have always had trouble setting or unsetting the ring on the main and figured it was just my inexperience. I have had to just tie off the bottom of the halyard to something to keep the main up most of the time. I finally got to looking at my setup with everything connected and realized that it was almost impossible for the ring to set because the shackle i was using caused the ring to turn parallel to the mast instead of perpendicular to the mast. After realizing this I remembered seeing twisted shackles and knew that was what I needed. The twist allows the ring to be perpendicular so it hit the hook on the Prindle mast.
I got one for Fathers day and put it on last night and went through the motions and the mechanics seems much better now so I am hopeful that I have solved this problem. The new shackle is not a quick release but the pin doesn't come all the way out so that is good.
Anyway so anyone who is new to this and has a Prindle or similar setup. (I have no idea how some of the other models are setup for this) I hope you can use this and if it doesn't have one get a twisted shackle for your main.
I also got a can of SailKote for Fathers day so now I need to put it use so any tips on that would be helpful. Like what should I clean the sail track with first be fore treating it? Alos plan on treating the traveler track.
edited by: Quarath, Jun 23, 2009 - 10:05 AM
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Feeling a bit Stupid
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 12:04 PM
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 12:22 PM
your hook and ring system is standard on many cats... so good advice (i would suggest you may consider a more related title in your posts so people can see the just without clicking in).
Just to complicate it... i have never needed a twist shackle on my cats and the last 2 have the same system. but whatever works for you is what works for you!!!!
the mclube (sailcoat) is good, but you need to remove all dirt and other lube (silicone) first with acetone or other solvent. Also, do 2 light coats vs. 1 heavy coat.
As per use in your sailtrack (mast) .... I PERSONALLY wouldn't/don't use it there.. when you spray in there MOST will go to the back wall of the track (where the boltrope will NEVER touch) and will be waisted... i always advocate using a cloth wrapped around a dowel (or pencil) with regular spray silicone. work it up and down.. (but you probably have seen me say this in the past).
As per your traveler.. don't lube your bearings (in the traveler car) with anything EXCEPT Mclube ONE DROP!.. other products can cause the bearings to clump, stick, not spin and get flat spots.
The new ONE drop works very well (and is only $10).
I use mclube only in my spinnaker snuffer area to help douse the spinnaker. on almost every other area i use cheaper silicone pump. But it works well on traveler tracks, and similar.
edited by: andrewscott, Jun 23, 2009 - 12:28 PM -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 01:13 PM
My P18 seemed impossible to lock when I first got it. It did not have a twist shackle, though, and once I switched them out it became tons easier. Replacing the halyard with one that has less stretch helped a bunch, too, but I still found myself having to flip the boat to take the sail down some days. I finally noticed that the sheave in the masthead had a groove worn into it on one side, I imagine from years of people trying to hook that ring over and over. I drilled out the rivets, popped off the cap, and replaced the sheave.
Now the whole thing works exactly as intended..its really hard to believe how much better it works than it did when I got it.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 01:20 PM
Great points!
new halyard (less stretchyness, and thinner) should help
Also the sheave on the top matters!!!!
So does the sheave on bottom! that is one thing my boat needs love with... the bottom halyard shackle.. i have needed to mess with it since i got the boat. it keeps popping the rivets, or burning up..
edited by: andrewscott, Jun 23, 2009 - 01:26 PM -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 01:43 PM
They make those sheeves in aluminum too.
I switched to amsteel for my halyard after an on-water problem forced me to use the halyard to hold the sail up (cleated via the mast rotator). This only worked for a short period of time and the halyard broke.
This stuff should be a lot stronger-
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|311417|314170|749705&id=1117343
This all happened in 30 knots gusting to 35. The grove worn in the ring by the hook had weaked the ring and it broke. The halyard was still captive in thr ring, but the hook wouldn't hold the sail. Once the halyard broke, I was forced to flag down a powerboat for a tow back to shore.
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 04:10 PM
A tech problem I can help with! I had the same issues.
1) Clean and lube the track.
2) Non stretchy halyard. I got braided cord from West Marine..Blue and White. 1/8 or 1/4" can't remember. It was the thinnest on the reels. -
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Posted: Jun 23, 2009 - 04:38 PM
Yes but the molded plastic of the block itself can also burn out (when the block cant sit straight or freely turn)
You can lift your car with 1/4" amsteel... 12 braid (amsteel) is VERY easy to splice (VERY) its a great line to play with splices and learn. As per the right size for a halyard, the smaller the better (for easy sail rig/derig), but its whatever your hands can handle pulling on (people have lost fingers with thin dyneema that "gets tight quick"...
Are you saying your hook rubbed through the ring???? -
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Posted: Jun 24, 2009 - 02:46 PM
Thanks guys.
Just a note: though I had not intended to do much to the actual traveler but instead the track. I though I would note that my traveler is the old style Prindle traveler with 4 wheels on the underside rather than bearings.
This on my list of things to change soon as it can get stuck when under a bit of force sometimes.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Posted: Jun 24, 2009 - 04:05 PM
Mine is an old style with 4 wheels too, but when i looked close, there were metal bearings them. so i used the McLube 1 drop in there with great results...
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Posted: Jun 24, 2009 - 04:07 PM
Many times i have to sheet out (the main) to release the tention on my blocks to travel in/out.
