Prindle 18 Jib rigging assistance :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

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Prindle 18 Jib rigging assistance

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Doug-p182-590

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Registered: Jun 18, 2008

Last visit: Jul 02, 2009

Posts: 36
Posted: Jun 29, 2009 - 10:44 AM

catdanIs there a simpler system possible? I have a P18-2 that misses the complete jib system, so I'll have to get all the parts anyway, but I was wondering if it would not be possible to make it simpler, even if at the cost of performance.

The Prindle 18-2 has a fairly advanced and complicated jib control system: 4-way system to move the main blocks in an out, tracks to move the blocks fore (in light air) and aft (in heavy air) and the barberhauler system for broad reaching. If you want to simplify it for pleasure sailing you can simply eliminate the 4-way system and bolt the blocks directly to the tracks. This way you won't have any lines, cable, bungie running through the 'sock' in the trampoline. You can also ignore the barberhauler. Now you just have the jib blocks, preset the tracks for the wind conditions and that's it.
catdan

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Posts: 91
Posted: Jun 29, 2009 - 10:00 PM

yurdleSimpler system for the jib sheet and blocks or barberhauler?

Yes, for the jib sheet and blocks. On my boat, the complete system is missing; all I have is the jib sail and no parts whatsoever. It's only recreational sailing, so I wondered whether I can save expenses and make it friendlier at the same time.
Quarath

Rank: Mate

Registered: Jul 06, 2008

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Posted: Jun 30, 2009 - 02:28 PM

You can sail without the jib until you can put the parts together.

I don't know does the P18.2 have the Jib blocks mounted somewhere or are they the same general setup as the P18. The main blocks with cleats for each side of the Jib are the expensive parts I think mine are about $150 each new but the rest isn't to bad.

You need an S hook and shackle for the Halyard and some line. And couple blocks for the Jib clew and some line there.

I was lucky enough to have the main Jib blocks and salvaged the rest off an old P16 down the street that the guy didn't have a clue what any of the stuff was for anyhow. He was gonna rig and outboard to it and told me I could have any of the rigging I wanted.

--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
--
MN3

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Posts: 7089
Posted: Jun 30, 2009 - 04:42 PM

Lots of data/questions here.... ALL GOOD STUFF

Simpler system?
Yes, you can:

Remove the Barberhauler line and rings/blocks that go around the jib sheets. As described above, it helps a little to use it (at the right time) so not having it only hurts a little.

Remove the 4 way jib adjusters... this one hurts alot more.. but you can just mount to the tracks as mentioned above.

Remove the Jib... Ouch.. this one really hurts, makes tacking much harder, sailing slower, pointing much lower

Remove the Mast... well now you dont have to adjust anything... and have a great raft

Prindle Pete.... Yes, you can move the bridal wire mounts, wires and the jib blocks forward (and lose the 4 way advantage)... but you MUST be drastically altering the performance of the cat... i would GRAVELY FEAR getting hit with a 30+MPH with your rig moved 1.5' forward and your center of effort / pivot / gravity / etc in a new location....

edited by: andrewscott, Jun 30, 2009 - 04:43 PM
HULLFLYER

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Posted: Jun 30, 2009 - 05:14 PM

Don't fear the equipment, learn what it is, and use it. You will be a much better sailor, and have more options to power up or depower the boat as needed. Like Andrew said, why turn it into a raft. When you learn to use these adjustments you will be glad that you have them.
kgatesman

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Registered: Feb 06, 2009

Last visit: Jun 25, 2017

Posts: 223
Posted: Jul 01, 2009 - 06:01 AM

This photo from the owners manual helped me figure out what was wrong with my barberhauler rig:

In my case, the PO had only only the outboard side of the jib sheet passing through the barberhauler block.

As you can see in the picture, on each side of the boat, the outboard jib sheet passes through the block's sheave, and the inboard jib sheet is contained by a becket using a block like this:

http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.ShowProd?B4RPMEB9Y8U9QW
kgatesman

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Posted: Jul 01, 2009 - 06:05 AM

It is interesting to note that the pit tail (which Doug recommends not using above) is not on the boat in the barberhauler picture!

edited by: kgatesman, Jul 01, 2009 - 09:42 AM
HULLFLYER

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Posted: Jul 01, 2009 - 07:40 AM

The purpose of the 3/16 x 5 foot jib pigtail is so that you can sheet your jib in quicker while tacking. Less line to pull in. The same reason some sailors use a pigtail from the boom to the upper mainsheet block, if you have a 8 to 1 system and you can use an 1 foot pigtail, it is 8 less feet of sheet that you have to pull in to get to the same place, and also have 8 less feet of mainsheet to contend with on the boat.
MN3

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Posted: Jul 01, 2009 - 09:00 AM

pigtails:
I had 35' of mainsheet, and removed about 10' after adding a pig tail... who doesn't want less sheet to have to manage?

Also... to a small degree.. there is less windage with a piece of 5mm dynema vs a 4sheeve block and 8 pieces of line going through it... this is a small windage savings (esp since its on the back of the boat) but every little bit helps :)

Downside on Jib pigtails... they probably get caught / fouled a little easier than if you didn't use them, but a line to the bridal/furler handles this 99% of the time.
MN3

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Posted: Jul 01, 2009 - 09:06 AM

QuoteAs you can see in the picture, on each side of the boat, the outboard jib sheet passes through the block's sheave, and the inboard jib sheet is contained by a becket using a block like this:

http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.urd/scpdinw1.ShowProd?B4RPMEB9Y8U9QW

I replaced my block & becket with a simple, and lighter plastic ring. it captures both side of the jib sheet. It was a little to wide so i used a heat gun and softened it, then bent it into an oblong shape
Doug-p182-590

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Registered: Jun 18, 2008

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Posted: Jul 02, 2009 - 02:33 PM

HULLFLYERThe purpose of the 3/16 x 5 foot jib pigtail is so that you can sheet your jib in quicker while tacking. Less line to pull in. The same reason some sailors use a pigtail from the boom to the upper mainsheet block, if you have a 8 to 1 system and you can use an 1 foot pigtail, it is 8 less feet of sheet that you have to pull in to get to the same place, and also have 8 less feet of mainsheet to contend with on the boat.

Here's why I disagree with this, especially for the jibsheet. I've always taught my crew to "sail through the tack". Never once let the jib luff. The best way to do this is while going across the trampoline (ON YOUR FEET) simply hold on to the lazy jibsheet and you counter the tacking jib in motion. Just by going across, you maintain a constant sail on the jib and the sheet pulls in. My jib sheet is exactly long enough to do this. If I had a pigtail, it changes the sheet length and you're left fumbling with the sheet after crossing the tramp.
HULLFLYER

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Posted: Jul 02, 2009 - 02:59 PM

I normally tack from the trapped out position, it sounds like you are tacking while sitting on the boat.
catdan

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Posted: Jul 03, 2009 - 06:42 AM

yurdleSimpler system for the jib sheet and blocks or barberhauler?

Just for the jib sheet. It's only recreational sailing--I believe the barberhauler is a mini-adjustment
catdan

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Registered: Jul 25, 2008

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Posted: Jul 03, 2009 - 07:08 AM

HULLFLYER What are you missing? I have the ratchet jib blocks, s hooks, jib halyard, clew blocks as well. That is everything you will need except the jib.

Just the jib halyard ring, jib blocks, s-hook, and jib halyard are needed. Ill go with the simple setup as described in the manual. Not sure about the clew blocks--will I need those?

I only have the jib sheet including the 3 holes when a mouse ate thru it, so I could also use some Dacron patches.

edited by: catdan, Jul 03, 2009 - 06:10 AM
HULLFLYER

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Posted: Jul 03, 2009 - 09:12 AM

Yes you will need the clew blocks, without them it will not work. Are you referring to the sail when you said that a mouse ate through it. When a sailor refers to "sheets" they are referring to the lines that are used to adjust the sail settings.
catdan

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Posted: Jul 03, 2009 - 10:20 AM

HULLFLYERYes you will need the clew blocks, without them it will not work. Are you referring to the sail when you said that a mouse ate through it. When a sailor refers to "sheets" they are referring to the lines that are used to adjust the sail settings.

Sorry, typo. Yes, the mouse ate thru the sail.
yurdle

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Posted: Jul 04, 2009 - 01:49 AM

I don't think you actually can simplify the P18 Jib Blocks/Sheet system in any way other than removing the barberhauler. I'd say that you really won't gain anything by removing it either, but since it is so unfriendly to use you probably won't lose anything by removing it.

Aside from the barberhauler, the P18 Jib system is as simple as it gets. You can move the line between the jib blocks to different holes in the tramp before you go out as a jib traveler system (just untie and retie w/ a truckers hitch) to spill some wind if necessary...other than that its like the nacra 5.2 system sans traveler - simple as it gets.

I tried using no pigtail on the jib clew, as well as two different lengths. (I currently use a short pigtail.) If its too long its horrible, but once you shorten it to a certain point it doesn't have any effect to go shorter. Until you get used to it, though, you may find it to have fairly significant effects on sailing the boat..

I'd never heard of using a pigtail on the upper main block until this thread. That's a pretty intriguing idea. I don't see how it could shorten the amount of mainsheet that's free on the tramp, but that would Definitely shorten the overall amount of sheet needed....might even let me lose the traveler sheet.

Andrew: I actually just set up a barberhauler (inside the crossbar) on my n5.2. I also abandoned the block/becket system and just bought 2 SS 1.5" rings. It seemed far cheaper, simpler, and more effective for a bit, but I was noticing yesterday that it seemed like when I have tension in the barberhauler and I try to sheet the jib ALL the way in that there is a ton of friction and resistance from the two lines rubbing each other. Do you notice this? I wonder if something shaped more like a 'V' that would keep the lines separate would work better.

--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
--
kgatesman

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Posted: Jul 04, 2009 - 03:31 PM

This has been an extremely helpful thread for me, thanks everyone!
Rider_55

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Registered: Jun 26, 2009

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Posted: Jul 06, 2009 - 12:05 AM

I must echo the thanks of Kenny. You all have been VERY helpful. I was able to get my boat out over the weekend and get everything rigged and functional. It was a very eventful few days which I intend to chronicle in another thread shortly.

Thanks again.
gonbop

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Registered: Oct 19, 2011

Last visit: Oct 20, 2011

Posts: 2
Posted: Oct 19, 2011 - 12:20 PM

Hi guys, first time on forum, this has been a great topic, does anyone have a pict they would be willing to email me with this jib setup?
Thanks!!!