The traveler line passes through a metal loop/shackle on the traveler car on a Prindle. It seems there should be a block installed on the traveler car for this line to reduce friction, loads and chafing. Is there a reason this high friction approach has been adopted? Am I missing something?
You can see what I mean in this photo from the owner's manual:
Prindle 18 Traveler Car Line
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 06, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 25, 2017
- Posts: 223
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jun 26, 2009
- Last visit: Mar 20, 2015
- Posts: 150
Kenny
If you look at the Murray's catalog you will find a Prindle traveler that has a steel roller on each leg of the shackle to facilitate easier passage of the traveler line. I haven't purchased one of these yet but was planning on either doing that or adding a new traveler track and going with a harken traveler car with rollers built in. Even with the main sheet eased I have had drop the tiller and use both hands to get the traveler to budge and I am a pretty big guy.
Please let me know if you find a good solution to this problem. Unfortunately I have been forced out of the water for the rest of the year and won't be able to experiment myself. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 06, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 25, 2017
- Posts: 223
I am thinking of getting a used 2" ratchet block with a swivel for the task. I only see this part on murray's
While the new part has a smoother casting than my olden model, this has the same problem, the line passes through the shackle with not much to reduce friction.
edited by: kgatesman, Jul 06, 2009 - 01:10 PM -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jun 26, 2009
- Last visit: Mar 20, 2015
- Posts: 150
That is the part I was thinking of. I believe the larger diameter cylinders on the lower portions of the legs are rollers which should help the operation. I think the description of the item made mention of this but do not recall offhand.
-
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: May 22, 2024
- Posts: 7089
i really doubt the friction on the traveler line is a problem. there is not that much friction/tension on that u shaped part of the traveler. if the line is to big..use a thiner line. you can have (and most do) different size line for the traveler/main.
I am CERTAIN that it has more to do with:
a. a worn track
b. worn car
c. shot bearings in the car*** usually its this one.
there is a new lube called McLube onedrop made for bearings. it worked well on my car bearings (even though they are steel and its made for delron bearings).
Also note, on some cats you MUST release main sheet tension to move the traveler (my H18 was like that). -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Aug 12, 2009
- Last visit: Sep 22, 2011
- Posts: 36
Shoot, on my P18 my car's hoop is twisted like it was hit with a hammer. I can not pull that car in while it is under load. I only make "to center" adjustments after I have eased out the main sheet. I guess a new car cost around $100 and can be a pain to install..... -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 22, 2007
- Last visit: Jan 07, 2015
- Posts: 742
I gotta agree with Andrew with everything except his weighting system. I've never seen any real friction in the becket of the car either w/ a continuous sheet or a traveler sheet tied to the main. The issue is most likely the track itself IMO. I sanded and wetsanded mine for quite a while, mainly so I wouldn't knick up my feet too much, but it made a huge difference (along with lube) with how well the car moved. You certainly could have dinged up sheaves in the car as well, but IIRC there aren't bearings to worry about - just sheaves riveted in.
--
Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 06, 2004
- Last visit: Oct 20, 2024
- Posts: 878
You can also head up a few degrees, taking some pressure off the main. I use this approach when I want to sheet in the main or jib as well as the traveler especially if the wind is really blowing. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 06, 2008
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2018
- Posts: 986
I seem to have the same problem. the on the top of my traveler on my P18 is twisted as well but it looks like it is supposed to be. I just replaced my main line and in the heaviest wind I've really sailed in I had a hard time getting the traveler to move in with the line just passing through the car. I had someone on the boat with me who is an old pro but was surprised there was not some sort of block attached to the traveler to make this easier. He says it shouldn't be that hard. Currently my main an traveler line are the same line with knot to keep the traveler from hitting the end of the track. I may have to look at a smaller line for the traveler to see if it will help but I have also had my eye on that new prindle traveler for a bit as well.
--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 06, 2004
- Last visit: Oct 20, 2024
- Posts: 878
A new traleler is not hard to install. Drill out the rivets holding the end cap and remove the end cap. Next remove only the outer bolt holding the rear crossbar. Slide off the old car, slide on the new car, replace the bolt then the end cap rerivet and you are done. Should be a 30-45 minute job. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 12, 2003
- Last visit: Feb 19, 2021
- Posts: 879
It is much harder than that to install. You will need to remove the inner beam bolts (usually corroded ) and countersink the bolt heads further into the track as the clearances are different between the cars. But new car is MUCH better. Pete -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 06, 2008
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2018
- Posts: 986
Pete are there recommended replacement bolts if they are corroded. or tips for removing the corroded ones. I mean if I'm gonna do it might as well do as much as possible.
--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 12, 2003
- Last visit: Feb 19, 2021
- Posts: 879
Don't need replacement bolts. Just spin off corrosion on wire brush side of your garage grinder--takes 10 seconds, and then the nuts go back on easily. Pete -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 06, 2008
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2018
- Posts: 986
Crap now I have to get a garage with a grinder.
your Kidding the Word C.R.A.P is CENSORED out.
edited by: Quarath, Sep 09, 2009 - 10:20 AM
--
Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Aug 13, 2009
- Last visit: Apr 28, 2012
- Posts: 18
Wait a minute, anyone that has the time to do a flemish coil on a cat has way too much time on his/her hands to worry about the little more time that a shinny metal post will cause to slow down their sailing... -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 06, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 25, 2017
- Posts: 223
I thought that was kind of funny too, the pic was lifted from the original owner's manual. Photographer's asthetic is greater than sailor's practicality.
Users on-line
- 0 users
This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.