I just got a 1981 Nacra 5.2 for a screaming deal! The first issue I have to deal with is restoring the hulls.
No 1. : Structurally I THINK they are sound. When I press on the sides of the hulls there is a little bit of give, how much give should there be? Any advice on opening up the deck and reinforcing the hulls from the inside if neccesary?
No 2. : After being left out in the sun, they are badly oxidized and need to be refinished. I've seen some posts on re-gelcoating, and that's what I'm leaning towards. I've also seen discussion of rolling and tipping or brushing on finishes. Any opinions on this would help alot.
Thanks
Restoring Nacra Hulls
-
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jun 23, 2009
- Last visit: Jul 07, 2009
- Posts: 3
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 17, 2006
- Last visit: Apr 13, 2010
- Posts: 194
Try sanding and buffing before re-spraying. A lot of oxidation will come off without needing to add gelcoat. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 06, 2009
- Last visit: Jun 25, 2017
- Posts: 223
I agree with Rich.
If the hulls give "just a little that" is no big deal fiberglass panels have some flexibility. If the hulls deflect when pressure is applied and/or multiple gelcoat cracks emanate from the zone, it is a bigger issue. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 05, 2004
- Last visit: Oct 19, 2015
- Posts: 327
We have a 30 year old 5.2 on the beach. Last weekend as the owner was moving her to the water a helper brushed the hull against the bow of a 16 yeilding a 3 inch rip in the hull. I was surprised at how thin the hulls are compared to my 91 5.8.
I'd try first a little soft scrub cleanser then light compound then marine wax. This boat I referred to has chalking issues as well. You might be surprised. -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jun 23, 2009
- Last visit: Jul 07, 2009
- Posts: 3
The previous owner told me that the amount of give in the hulls had been that way since he bought it. The Nacras were built for speed I guess.
Anyway, I'm definitely going to try and scrub and/or buff out before commiting to any more serious repairs. I think its definitely going to need a bottom job though, as its down to the fiberglass in some places on the bottom from beaching.
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 17, 2006
- Last visit: Apr 13, 2010
- Posts: 194
A bottom job shouldn't be that big a deal. It is worth doing though. I have hull covers for mine that hold moisture for a couple of hours after a rain. The moisture was being wicked into the hull before I got the bottom done. No problem now.
Unfortunately I only got one hull fixed due to contact with a submerged object. The second mull still needs the bottom done, but can wait until the powerboaters are done damaging their machines for the season. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 05, 2004
- Last visit: Oct 19, 2015
- Posts: 327
My first year at Glencoe the rocks, the cradleless wheels and a stupid jibe too close to shore (brace for impact!) put a big hurt on my hulls. Solutions: Bought a set of wheels with cradles for my use only, moved to the south beach (more sand) and I ran a four inch strip of Marine tex along the bottom of the hulls and sanded it smooth. I also wax the hulls every season. I have found that this wear strip has been a very effective solution. I touch it up every spring. Yes, it probable kills some speed but not noticable.
I think if I had to do it all over again, I would have learned to apply gel coat however.
Users on-line
- 0 users
This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.