). I have yet to test this fix but it seems strong enough(i own 4 sailboats and i had to build rudders for all of them. 
) good luck. feel free to critisize. i am sure that there are better ways to avoid spending $135 per rudder blade
Do you have a broken rudder problem?
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Posted: Jul 09, 2009 - 11:17 PM
I just fixed both of my rudders. I have the white plastic ones for a h-18 1980. I drill 5/16 holes down the blade through the broken pieces and blade. I clamped them and the rudder between two boards with c-clamps. i then tapped 3/8 coarse threads in the hole. the plastic melts when drilling and that is why i drilled such a small hole. you will have to drill as deep as you can and pull the drill out a bunch to remove the melted plastic. my rudder had a piece of plastic the was bent in the way of other pieces from sitting right. so i cut it out. now there is a gap. then i screwed 3/8 allthread all the way down and cut it off flush with a hack saw. then i grinded it smooth. then i taped wax paper around the area and i filled the gap with fiberglass resin. in the morning i removed the paper and sanded it smooth. then i sanded the rudders with 120 and wiped the with mineral spirits. i painted the rudders white with rustolium paint and a roller(i painted the whole boat with it, works well and cheap ). I have yet to test this fix but it seems strong enough(i own 4 sailboats and i had to build rudders for all of them. ) good luck. feel free to critisize. i am sure that there are better ways to avoid spending $135 per rudder blade
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Posted: Jul 10, 2009 - 09:33 AM
Rustolium? lol! well that is one way to do it! :)
To answer your post's question... YES everyone has rudder issues, and many people who have had used hobies break a rudder at some point.
I have found the cheap nylon rudders (that are stock on hobies) get brittle with age and will continue to break. YOu can repare them, but they will probably break again on you.
I went through 3 in about a month. If you replace them with the same kind (nylon) they should last for years... but if you have the cash... the EPO's are a GREAT upgrade.
Just to make you feel better... Dart rudders (for the dart20) are $1200 each (without ANY hardware.. just the blades)
edited by: andrewscott, Jul 10, 2009 - 09:34 AM -
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Posted: Jul 10, 2009 - 10:51 AM
Andrew, 3 rudders in a month! What are you doing or hitting
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Posted: Jul 10, 2009 - 11:47 AM
Dunno.. Hope that fix works. Given the stresses, once these things break, its over. Last time I snapped a rudder, I had the tiller assembly on backwards. Lots of weather helm then SNAP!
Guy on our beach just did that a couple of weeks ago and he's a 30 year sailor!
Now that I know I have only one pair of daggers that fit my boat, I'm treating them very carefully. -
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Posted: Jul 10, 2009 - 11:52 AM
There is a waterski jump that i was trying to jump....
Ok the truth... they were very old H18 rudders...
1st break: i got caught in a little wave action on anchor and my rudder hit bottom and broke off (i also cracked the casting) I had that rudder repaired (and spent $800 on the new casting upgrade)..
2nd break: Simply sailing along (flying the hull) and the repair (see above) crapped out! It is an interesting feeling to go from flying the hull to having NO steering at all (since the rudder was gone).
3rd break: after i purchased a replacement for the port rudder (and the new castings), my starboard one simply left me during normal sailing! and i had to replace it...
If i was to do it again... i would get the EPO's (used if possible). The foam core with gelcote lasts much longer... or the carbon fiber ones ... (which are almost as sexy as my girlfriend).... *(ALMOST)
DAMON... I can't say S-e-x-y????? thats a dirty word???? lol
edited by: andrewscott, Jul 10, 2009 - 11:53 AM -
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Posted: Jul 13, 2009 - 10:22 AM
so my rudder fix broke today. i was testing out the kick up system for the rudders by yanking on the bottom of the rudder. one rudder had 1/4 all thread instead of 3/8(it was my first try). The broken piece pulled off the all thread. so i unscrewed the allthread by a 1/4 inch and hammered the piece back on it . then i put a washer and nut on it. now it holds well. I recommend putting threads in the blade but not the piece, instead drill out the piece to 3/8(if using 3/8 allthread) and then using a washer and nut. I also fixed the stupid aluminum lock cams. i just filed then down a bit and lubricated them. now they pop up with ease.
