How can I connect my front stay?????
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Posted: Jul 20, 2009 - 07:55 PM
My boat is a 1972 H-16. I am refurbishing it. I made sure to get shrouds that were specific to early 70's models. Well.....They came about two inches short. Are there any tricks I can do to connect the front stay?????? If nothing works, should I pick up an extra 10 hole linkage? -
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Posted: Jul 20, 2009 - 10:30 PM
This site has the specifications for shrouds and forestay.
http://www.cat44.com/hobie-16-technical-info.htm
Make sure that they are indeed too short. If they are I would return them.
Usually when I am stepping my mast I can only get my forstay to the first or second hole connecting to the bridle wires, but still have lots of play with my shrouds, until I tighten them down to the bottom hole.
But, for some reason I can never step my mast with the shrouds in the bottom hole, and get the forestay to connect. -
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Posted: Jul 21, 2009 - 12:28 AM
http://www.cat44.com/hobie-16-technical-info.htm
wish there was some info arranged like this for the Prindles. Anyone know how long the line for the main with a 6:1 should be. I don't trap really but I always feel like I have way to much line on the tramp.
edited by: Quarath, Jul 20, 2009 - 10:36 PM
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Posted: Jul 21, 2009 - 03:24 AM
you mean like this
Barberhauler - 1/4? (6mm) x 16? (487.7cm) - White
Batten Ties - 3/32? (2mm) x 22? (55.9cm) - White (10)
Downhaul - 1/4? (6mm) x 15? (457.2cm) - White
Jib Clew Bridle - 3/16? (5mm) x 6? (182.9cm) - White
Jib Halyard - 5/32? (4mm) x 22' (670.6cm) - Black (2)
Jib Sheet - 5/16? (8mm) x 33? (1005.8cm) - Black
Main Halyard - 3/16? (5mm) x 58' (1767.8cm) - White
Mainsheet - 3/8? (10mm) x 40' (1219.2cm) - White
Mast Rotator - 3/16? (5mm) x 5? (152.4cm) - White
Rudder Pull Down - 3/16? (5mm) x 4? (121.9cm) - White (2)
Rudder Pull Up - 3/16? (5mm) x 5? (152.4cm) - White (2)
Tramp Lace Rear - 3/16? (5mm) x 10? 6" (320.0cm) - Black (2)
Tramp Lace Side - 5/32" (4mm) x 11' (335.3cm) Black (2)
Trapeze Adjustment - 1/4? (6mm) x 3' 6" (106.7cm) - White (4)
Traveler - 5/16? (8mm) x 10? (304.8cm) - Color
http://www.saltydogmarine.com/product_info.php?cPath=421&products_id=3667&osCsid=ea32a6 -
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Posted: Jul 21, 2009 - 09:16 AM
Nicely done..
I use a 40' mainsheet on my P18, but I changed to a 7:1 system, which leaves a little less out on the tramp and imho is a good length.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Jul 21, 2009 - 09:41 AM
Dustin, i have about 35' but have an 8-1.
I plan to cut off about 10' and add a 14" pig tail to drop the blocks down ... this means less lenght is needed to sheet in/out -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 08:54 AM
MWSTOL-
Andrew touched on another possibility with your forestay. Do you have a pig tail attached? My pigtail is about 4-5 inches, and might explain why your forestay doesnt reach the blocks. -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 10:42 AM
How will adding a pig tail reduce the length you need to sheet in and out?
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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 10:46 AM
Adding pig tail will reduce the length of the sheet itself.
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 10:55 AM
if i had 35' of line.. and have a 1' of control (the difference between lose and tightly sheeted)... if i reduce the 35' to 27' and lower the block.. i have less than distance for all the line to travel between all the blocks.. and less than 1' of control...
If you have an 8-1 system (as i do)
and the distance from the beam block to the boom block is 3'... you have 8x3' of line to sheet on your main as your "control area"
if you add a 1' pigtail.. you now have 8x2' to
so right off the bat.. i can remove 8' of line from my main (and have the same amount of line on my deck)
but also since there is less area between the beam and boom.. less is needed to "sheet in"
There is a net saving of line needed and needed to pull in to get the same adjustment (i think)
edited by: andrewscott, Jul 22, 2009 - 10:55 AM -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 11:12 AM
You might want to rethink this Andrew. The overall length of sheet will be shorter, but the sheeting distance will remain the same. 8:1 is 8:1. can't change the physics.
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 11:58 AM
Andrew I see where you could reduce the amount of line needed since the blocks will be closer together.
But in order to get the 8:1 block to move say 1 foot, how far apart they are has no impact on how much line you have to pull through the blocks to move it that one foot.
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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 12:08 PM
i am with mmump. unless you are concerned with the extra line wieght and cost then i would not bother with a pigtail. but for $1.58 a foot i might use a pigtail soon.
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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 12:28 PM
i wasnt sure about the "less to pull in".. thats why i added the (i think) at the end. It still is "boggling" my brain a little (it is a little brain to start with)
If i have 8x3' of line .... and i add a 1' pigtail.. then i have 8x2' of line to pull.. this is 1/3 less. wouldn't i have 1/3 less movement (pull) needed to move the boom the same amount (downwards towards the other block)???
OUCH MATH HURTS MY HEAD!
I know i will have less line on my tramp... and my line is a lot more than 1.58/foot...
also a small factor here.. but a pig tail on your blocks will also reduce windage by .000000008%. -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 12:36 PM
Pigtails on the main blocks are great and highly recommended, especially on boomless boats like the N5.8, N6.0, and the N5.5. There are other ways to achieve this, like using a swivel snap shackle or similar on the top will add some distance. . .
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:03 PM
I admit i am bad at math.. but i still feel there is less sheeting involved if there is less line involved...
i will have to pull out some blocks and sheets to get empirical data...
but the 2 braincells that still work are telling me.. there is less line to travel through the system with an 8to1 with 2' of gap (between blocks) than there is in an 8to1 with 3' of gap... thus 1/3 less line is needed to pull the blocks together -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:14 PM
Yes there is less line in the system, which is why you can use a shorter line. However if you take the 8:1 with a 3' gap and then sheet it in to a 2' gap, you have just found how much line you can cut off. But now that you are at a 2' gap it doesn't matter if you have a pigtail on the top or if it directly connected to the boom, the amount you have to pull to go from 2' to 1' would be the same either way.
When you add the pigtail you loose the ability to get the boom as close to the beam. think of a H16, if you added a foot between the upper blocks and the boom, the boom could never get as close to the tramp.
Also make sure the pigtail is very strong. However hard you are pulling against the line, you are putting 8 times that force on the pigtail. All your mechanical advantage through the blocks does no good on the pigtail, so it is getting the full load of the sail.
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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:17 PM
Pull the sheet 8" and the upper blocks will move 1", regardless of the distance between them. Andrew, I know you don't drink, maybe that is why this is a problem. Do your empirical mumbo-jumbo voodoo testing and there you will find the answer. It really is quite simple. . . .
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:23 PM
The beauty of the pigtail is that, if you add 6" of pigtail you will need to shorten your sheet by 4 feet, on my 10:1 a 6" pigtail will allow me to shorten it 5 feet. Does your head hurt now?
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:23 PM
Damn all you and your "New Math"!!!! hehe.. make sense now.. (but i think its done with mirrors).
Yes if you have a h16 you can't use pigtail.. but that is the only cat (i know of) that wants its mast so raked and has its blocks to the beam. If i tried anything close to that... i would have either a bent mast or a shredded sail.
