• smfinley
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Apr 24, 2005
  • Last visit: Apr 18, 2023
  • Posts: 709

  Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 01:32 PM

  Not just mirrors, smoke and mirrors.
  
  I referenced the H16 since most are familiar with it and I am not at all familiar with the Mystere 5.5. I presumed the extra length in the blocks was not an issue for you since you are looking at it.
  
  Again remember to use a very strong pigtail.
  
  --
  Scott,
  ‘92 H18 w/SX wings
  ‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
  ‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
  • Posts: 7090

  Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 03:05 PM

  Yes, strong line... ! This is a perfect application for "high tech line" and a chance to use my splicing skills...
  
  4mm HM line (i.e Amsteel blue has a tensile streght of 4000 lbs) thats 15x times stronger than steel!!!

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• rch701
  
  

  • Rank: Mate
  • Registered: Jul 06, 2009
  • Last visit: Nov 01, 2024
  • Posts: 395

  Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 05:18 PM

  imagine a dinghy with a single mainsheet 1:1. pigtail or not you will have the same amount of rope in the boat
  
  --
  FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
  Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
  --

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
  • Posts: 7090

  Posted: Jul 22, 2009 - 05:30 PM

  rch701

  imagine a dinghy with a single mainsheet 1:1. pigtail or not you will have the same amount of rope in the boat

  
  
  
  Ummm Rob... your example doesn't really relate.. we already know if you have 8 to 1 and you add 1' of pigtail.. you CAN remove 8' of mainsheet

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• Rich505
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: May 07, 2009
  • Last visit: Feb 17, 2010
  • Posts: 2

  Posted: Jul 24, 2009 - 01:47 AM

  with regards to the shroud wires being too short i had a similar problem with my 1974 hobie 16. i had to place the shroud wires in the uppermost hole on the attachments to the hull in order for me to be able to attach the fore stay. it also helps to have someone stand on the tramp and lean against the mast and un-pin the mast step link kit and attach the wire suggesting 3 people here and another to pull the fore stay taught while u clip the pin into the bridle. and have the person holding the mast lean against it. the shroud is behind the mast so leaning will prevent it from going anywhere. do this the first time u put the shroud up and after ur first good day of 10 knot wind the shroud will stretch and it shouldn't be a problem anymore.

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
  • Posts: 7090

  Posted: Jul 24, 2009 - 09:44 AM

  I can not agree with what Rich said...
  
  You should not take out your pin while stepping.. if you need to .. you have something wrong (bent step part, or more likely you are in the H14 hole, not the H16 hole).
  
  Also if your forestay stretches in 10knot wind... you have a POS forestay. the amount of stretch on a steel cable should be unknoticable...

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• PDS624
  
  

  • Rank: Lubber
  • Registered: Apr 14, 2008
  • Last visit: Apr 07, 2013
  • Posts: 87

  Posted: Jul 26, 2009 - 12:02 AM

  Since your jib will replace the forestay any way, you can add a chainplate to it to get it connected then run up your jib and reconnect the forestay right.
  
  I would also check the rake and make sure your side stays are not getting bound up while steping the mast. you can lose an inch or 2 when the connections are not strait then when you get thing up, the extra strain pulls them strait and now you have a bunch of slack in the rig which can be very bad. Remember once the pin is pulled, the mast is free to float so it is possible for it to hop right off the seat and come crashing doen even in small seas

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• MN3
  
  

  • Rank: Master Chief
  • Registered: Jun 20, 2006
  • Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
  • Posts: 7090

  Posted: Aug 03, 2009 - 11:06 AM

  OK.. here it is.. i spliced a 13" piece of 4mm spectra into a pigtail on friday night. cut off 6' of mainsheet...
  
  now my blocks have about 1' of gab between the top and bottom (reducing the 4' of gap)
  
  i have less distance to travel between the top and bottom blocks. i can now sheet in and or out with 1 arm and never need to get more than 1 arm full for sheeting action!!!! :)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  edited by: andrewscott, Aug 03, 2009 - 01:04 PM

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