Alright, so I picked up a nacra 5.0 this week. Have been used to hobies and single hulls in the past. Trying to figure out how you guys run the halyards, downhaul, etc.
A picture is worth 1000 words here, does anyone have a picture of a 5.0 lower mast setup?
There is one block on the mast, a few clamcleats, several assorted eyestraps, etc.
Looked at the assembly manual.. not so much of a help. Figured out easily the the main halyard doesn't hold any tension due to the locking system up top, easy enough, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do properly for the jib halyard and what I'm supposed to do for downhaul of the main. There is no downhaul block, etc.... Should there be?
Nacra 5.0 mast setup
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Posted: Sep 12, 2009 - 09:50 PM
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Posted: Sep 12, 2009 - 10:32 PM
http://nacra.us/nacra/nacra.pdf
Pages 28 & 29
I have a 5.8 and this is what was stock on my boat.
This is a main sail up grade that a lot of 5.8 sailors use.
http://www.murrays.com/mm…e=07-2088&Category_Code=
edited by: skarr1, Sep 12, 2009 - 09:41 PM -
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Posted: Sep 12, 2009 - 11:18 PM
More here. This is a 5.2 but most nacras are similar. http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=35563
edited by: skarr1, Sep 12, 2009 - 10:19 PM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 12:08 AM
interesting... looks like I may be missing a few pieces!
To start with, I need a block at the jib halyard end. (there isn't one currently)
Also, I don't have a block on the front of the mast like that, mine is almost dead up on the left side of the mast but at the same height. I can't see from the picture, but (and correct me if I am wrong) it looks like the line for the main downhaul is tied to a becket on the block on the sail, goes down to the block that I mentioned is on the left side of the mast, up to the block on the sail, and down to the clamcleat, does that sound right?
As for the jib, it looks like a becket on the halyard, to a block on the mast, back up to the block on the halyard, down to the clamcleat.
If that's the case, I need to pick up a few parts! but that makes complete sense.
As for that 8:1 downhaul, while it's amazing, I'd think it may be a tad overkill for a 5.0, don't you think? And, out of curiosity, why the two pivot blocks? Just for convenience of adjusting when mast is rotated? -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 09:15 AM
You can add a block to the jib halyard with a shackle. The jib block on the port "left" side of your mast is for the jib.
Also on the port side of the mast should be an eye strap and a jam cleat. On the starboard side there is just an eye strap. Start on the starboard side and tie a line to the eye strap, the other end goes through the grommet in the sail and ties to a single block. Now tie another line to the eye strap on the port side, run this up through the block and back down to the jam cleat. This is a four to one.
Let us know where you are and some one close might be able to assist.
edited by: skarr1, Sep 13, 2009 - 08:34 AM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 11:58 AM
I'm still just having trouble figuring it out exactly. How about this, I'll take some pictures of my mast this afternoon, add numbers to the items, and then it will make it easier!
And once we all figure it out, I'll make a diagram for future nacra noobies.
I'm near ann arbor, mi, fyi. -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 12:05 PM
perhaps a tad overkill for this boat... but will make it easier to get max downhaul
the 2 pivot blocks allow you to adjust from both port and starboard when its needed most (when you need to de-power in heavy air) without having to go to the low side -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 12:51 PM
Andrew, makes complete sense. I plan on having this boat for a while so I don't mind putting some upgrades into it. Ironically, the previous owner (who I bought it from) called me today because he saw this post! We're playing phone tag but that should help. I'm also looking at 'upgrade solutions' as well, thats why I am posting it on here too, I'm an engineer, I like to tinker, even if 'overkill'.
So as promised, the numbered mast!
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 12:52 PM
obvious top of mast in both of these pictures is the front... item 3 and 4 can be seen from both sides, hence the duplicate numbers. -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:20 PM
my thought... And correct me if I am wrong. For downhaul, line should start at starboard side eyestrap next to the cleat (1), go through a sheave of a double block on the sail, over to the block on the port side (6) back through the other sheave on the sail, and down into the cleat (2).
That's a complete guess and is probably wrong, haha.
As for the jib halyard, the eye of the line comes almost all the way down to the cleat (4) when tight... No clue. -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:21 PM
Is 3 a cheek block?
From the mounting angle of 1 & 2 they look like main sail. Start at 1 and go through the grommet in the sail, down to 6 back to through the grommet to 2. This would be a two to one down haul.
If you have a furling jib the halyard is pulled back through the jib luff zipper and tied at the jib tack.
For the jib start at the eye strap 5 ether a new block on the halyard or jut through the thimble and back to 4. Two to one.
This would work but I am guessing.....There might be a better way....
Ann Arbor is a little far for me, looks like the original owner might be you best bet.
edited by: skarr1, Sep 13, 2009 - 12:26 PM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:23 PM
I get the 'concept' of that, but I don't have an eye strap in that position on the port side. -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:34 PM
no, 3 is an eyestrap. I just use it with that shock line to attach the main halyard. That has the be the only use for the eyestrap Im guessing.
As far as your guess for downhaul, that is EXACTLY what I was thinking as well.
And no, it's not a furling jib. And your description sound good except for the fact that I will run out of room. The Jib halyard literally will come all the way down to 4/5, giving me no room to add a block. I MAY have enough room to just go through the thimble though, I'll have to give it a try.
edited by: gordonjs, Sep 13, 2009 - 12:35 PM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:36 PM
You are right about hanging a block from the grommet.
My boat has about a foot of sail that is below the grommet.
My boat also does not have a boom.
edited by: skarr1, Sep 13, 2009 - 12:36 PM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:37 PM
Also.. While somewhat unrelated, the clamcleats don't hold very well. Is it more likely the line or the cleats themselves? I've never replaced items on mast, I assume I drill out the rivet and redo it, not hard, but how do I make it watertight? -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 01:55 PM
I use silver silicone.
I have also found that REAL Sail boat line seems to hold better than hardware store lines.
edited by: skarr1, Sep 13, 2009 - 09:13 PM -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2009 - 09:22 PM
I have a 5.0, you have everything you need. Tie a figure eight in the end of a line about 3-4ft long, and run it through the eye labeled #1, then the line goes through the tack of the mainsail, through the cheek block (#6), back through the tack grommet, and through the v-cleat (#2). For the jib downhaul take a similar piece of line and dead end with a figure eight through #5, run it through the thimble of the Jib halyard (once you have the jib raised, the wire part of the halyard should already have a thin piece of line to raise and lower the sail) and then down through the cleat labeled #4. The eye labeled #3 I run a piece of bungee through and tie it down to the dolphin striker to either side of the mast so it makes a triangle. The bungee prevents the jib sheets from getting caught under the mast. I tidy all the halyards up after raising the sails, the jib halyard could technically be removed but I just stuff it in the tramp pocket, and the main halyard I run through a diamond stay turnbuckle and tie two half hitches to put some tension on it to keep the halyard from banging around, I stuff the remainder in the tramp pocket. If the teeth in your jam cleats are worn down the line will slip, you might also try a slightly larger diameter line, definitely buy some fairly low stretch line from a marine store. Hope this helps. Also let us know where you sail.
edited by: hokie, Sep 14, 2009 - 02:28 AM -
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Posted: Sep 14, 2009 - 08:31 PM
hokie, I actually tried EXACTLY what you said (before I saw this post unfortunately) today after a few times. I had issues with my job sheet as well when I went out solo this last weekend and was thinking of some type of preventer, which you have already mentioned as well, you're a damn mind reader!
My cleats are worn down, even good line won't hold well. I see many variants in the murrays catalog, any specific one that people recommend as a replacement? -
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Posted: Sep 14, 2009 - 11:31 PM
Thats a first! wahooo
just get the same size one..i am sure any ones sold at your local sail shop or online source will work.. but make sure its the right size line before you go through drilling and replacing and sealing... the wrong size line wont seat...
i have never seen a metal jam cleat wear out on a beach cat. I have seen them break and rust but never dull. that doesnt mean they dont but i havent ever seen or heard of one doing it
about liking to tinker and upgrading.. you have the right hobby.. there is all the tinkering and adjusting and variables you could ever want.
on yea, new or very old and stiff line may not cleat that well...
edited by: andrewscott, Sep 14, 2009 - 11:33 PM -
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Posted: Sep 15, 2009 - 12:01 AM
Gordonjs, your setup is exactly like my 1981 5.2.
The Jib is supposed to have a single bullet block hanging from the halyard you tie a 3' line to #1 go up through the jib block and back down to cleat at #4. This gives a 2:1 downhaul on the jib.
The main is also supposed to have a single bullet block with a becket hanging from the tack of the mainsail. another 3' line starts at the becket, goes down through #6 back up over the bullet block and back down to cleat #2. This give you only 3:1 purchase on the downhaul, but if you have the original sails and straight spreaders on the diamond wires I would recommend going any higher than 5:1 on the downhaul. The boltrope in the original sails wasn`t made for the super high downhaul loads people are putting in now. Also if the spreaders are straight to the side you won`t get the mast bend needed to make such high downhaul forces effective.
Extra line from the halyards can be rolled up and placed in the tramp bag.
#3 is actually a place for you to lash your halyards to when the sails are down. Almost everyone also ties a length of shockcord to the outside of the dolphinstriker, up through that eyelet and back down to the other side of the dolphinstriker as a jib preventer (keep the jib from hanging up under the mast when you tack).
Replacing the cleats is relatively simple, use part number 27-0702 Aluminum Cam Cleat No Roller - Aluminum (or you can use 27-0236 with a roller) from Murray`s. Drill out the head of the original rivets, pound the leftover rivet body into the mast using a nailset (or nail for that matter), reuse the holes and install using monel rivets Murray`s part number 19-5022 MCP 6-6 3/16" x 3/8". You can use a standard pop rivet gun for this but you will likely need a buddy to help you pop the rivets (the stainless mandrels are a pain to pop) unless you have one of the heavy duty tools. I`ve done about 20 similar rivets using a reguler rivet gun without breaking it.
The mast looks like a pre 1985 so you should use the older manual for advice (everything I have talked about is in there) here`s the link to the one you want: http://www.thebeachcats.com/index.php?module=pictures&g2_itemId=35357
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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