Hull repair 2; complete removal of deck plate :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

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Hull repair 2; complete removal of deck plate

catdan

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jul 25, 2008

Last visit: Aug 10, 2010

Posts: 91
Posted: Nov 25, 2009 - 07:53 PM

After capsizing and throwing the extendable righting pole, located on the tramp, over the hull, its tip hit the side of the hull near the bow and punched a hole into it. Grrr! Clumsy me.

This made a complete removal of the deck plate necessary:

However, remove the forestay, the deck plate is structure, not just a cover as I thought. See the distortion caused by the pulling forces of the forestay:

Inside view; hole in bow section:

Dan
UFgator

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Dec 09, 2008

Last visit: Apr 06, 2011

Posts: 99
Posted: Nov 26, 2009 - 09:47 AM

Great photos and work dan. It's nice to see someone who isn't intimidated by fiberglass work. I tried several application tips for gelcoat and ended up using brush for small area applications. Sanding and finishing was easy and cleanup was a breeze. I plan on recoating my rudders this year.

Good luck with the repairs.
turbohobo

Rank: Mate

Registered: Oct 19, 2006

Last visit: Aug 16, 2017

Posts: 613
Posted: Nov 26, 2009 - 12:01 PM

Neccessity is the mo ther of motivation. As I recall, Dan is in the Phillipians and services such as boat repair are almost non-existant, out of neccessity one has to do one's own repairs.

Dan, have you ever thought of attaching your righting pole underneath the tramp? I have been working on a righting pole on paper and was thinking of attaching it loosely to the dolphin striker on one end and to a retainer clip on the rear crossbar, two cables would attach from the pole to each corner post, on capsizing, pole would pivot out in line with mast and all forces would be on the cable not on the dolphin striker when hanging on the end of the pole. Anyway, it's just on paper right now, will work on it this winter.

Turbo
catdan

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jul 25, 2008

Last visit: Aug 10, 2010

Posts: 91
Posted: Nov 26, 2009 - 06:03 PM

UFgator I tried several application tips for gelcoat and ended up using brush for small area applications. Sanding and finishing was easy and cleanup was a breeze.

Thanks. We had the best results with foam rollers. Using a brush, the brush stroke texture makes it harder to sand. Best is to wet-sand with water to avoid the dust.

When adding 5% paraffin to the gel-coat (the wax floats on top), sanding will not clog the paper. Do not add the wax if the next coat is applied with no sanding.

HTH,
Dan

edited by: catdan, Nov 26, 2009 - 07:28 PM
catdan

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jul 25, 2008

Last visit: Aug 10, 2010

Posts: 91
Posted: Nov 26, 2009 - 06:14 PM

turbohoboDan, have you ever thought of attaching your righting pole underneath the tramp?

Thanks for the tip. I will look into that--guess that will work.

turbohobo I have been working on a righting pole on paper and was thinking of attaching it loosely to the dolphin striker on one end and to a retainer clip on the rear crossbar, two cables would attach from the pole to each corner post, on capsizing, pole would pivot out in line with mast and all forces would be on the cable not on the dolphin striker when hanging on the end of the pole.

I think that will work. You can never be sure before having made a prototype. Often the devil is in the details.

Our righting pole is not attached to the dolphin striker, instead its end is put between the crossbeam and (lower) hull, its other end being attached to the righting line, and two lines have to be attached to the bow and stern.

As said earlier, I'm getting tired of the system--I now believe a righting bag is the better system...

Dan