how would i clean a black mast, black trampoline frame, and black boom. i would like make it look brand new, and it don't have a gel coat on it, would just use aluminum cleaner or cleaner wax. anybody out there know.
thanks VOLCOMCAT
how would i clean a black mast, black trampoline frame, and black boom,
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Posted: Feb 02, 2010 - 08:25 PM
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 07:16 AM
$10 for a couple of cans of satin black and 20minutes of light sanding surface prep. would probably give you the best results -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 07:59 AM
Last spring I decided to clean up the boom for my H16. It had lots of scratches that came from the previous owner who stored it in the sail box with all the other parts and it bounced around in travel. I did some research and found that Penetrol is an excellent product for restoring black anodized fittings. It will not restore lost color but will make lightly faded or scratched black anodized parts shine like new.
If your parts are seriously faded and have lost their black finish you will want to paint them. My boom was seriously scratched up. The black finish was nice but there were way to many scratches so I opted for paint. Remember that the black anodized finish is intended to help prolong the life of the aluminum. If you remove that finish to paint then be sure to prep the parts well and they'll last.
I removed all the fittings and lightly sanded the boom to removed white oxidization and give the primer a better surface to grip. If you want the painted restoration to last longer I strongly recommend priming the surface with a self etching primer. I picked up a can and the local auto parts store for about $6. Follow the directions on the can for cure time and topcoat recomendations. When the primer was cured I sprayed and nice coat of decent flat black spray paint. When the finish coat finally cured I replaced all the fittings with new rivets and a little Lanocote. Lanocote is a wonderful product that helps prevent corrosion. Since there is a big problem with galvanic corrosion between the stainless rivets and the aluminum parts, using Lanocote can extend the life of the parts.
Good luck and hope your project works out. There are loads of discussions regarding recarpeting the side rails too. If you need help with that send me a message and I'll see if I can help.
Penetrol http://www.jamestowndistr…/show_product.do?pid=174
Lanocote http://www.lanocote.com/ -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 08:00 AM
Last spring I decided to clean up the boom for my H16. It had lots of scratches that came from the previous owner who stored it in the sail box with all the other parts and it bounced around in travel. I did some research and found that Penetrol is an excellent product for restoring black anodized fittings. It will not restore lost color but will make lightly faded or scratched black anodized parts shine like new.
If your parts are seriously faded and have lost their black finish you will want to paint them. My boom was seriously scratched up. The black finish was nice but there were way to many scratches so I opted for paint. Remember that the black anodized finish is intended to help prolong the life of the aluminum. If you remove that finish to paint then be sure to prep the parts well and they'll last.
I removed all the fittings and lightly sanded the boom to removed white oxidization and give the primer a better surface to grip. If you want the painted restoration to last longer I strongly recommend priming the surface with a self etching primer. I picked up a can and the local auto parts store for about $6. Follow the directions on the can for cure time and topcoat recomendations. When the primer was cured I sprayed and nice coat of decent flat black spray paint. When the finish coat finally cured I replaced all the fittings with new rivets and a little Lanocote. Lanocote is a wonderful product that helps prevent corrosion. Since there is a big problem with galvanic corrosion between the stainless rivets and the aluminum parts, using Lanocote can extend the life of the parts.
Good luck and hope your project works out. There are loads of discussions regarding recarpeting the side rails too. If you need help with that send me a message and I'll see if I can help.
Penetrol http://www.jamestowndistr…/show_product.do?pid=174
Lanocote http://www.lanocote.com/ -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 12:32 PM
I would not paint, it could be anodized. the paint will come off!
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 12:47 PM
The beams on my Old 1981 Hobie 18 were so badly faded and scratched that I painted them like that, just sanded, masked off, and shot a spray can of black appliance paint on.
They looked great for about two seasons and then started to look pretty bad do to the paint scratching off and fading since it is not nearly as strong as the original anodizing.
At the time I looked into having the beams and boom powder coated, which is a very strong finish, but turned out to be expensive and kind of difficult to get done.
What I use on my never H18, where the anodizing is still in good shape, is simply a good cleaning with WD40, works the same way as Penetrol and you probably already have it. Just spray on and try to wipe it completely off, You'll be amazed at how black your mast will look, lasts a couple of months then repeat.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 12:47 PM
anodizing will cost you a few $100 and it may be hard to find a shop that can handle a mast
i purchased rudder castings that came unfinished, the local shops i called all wanted close to 100 to do them... -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 01:12 PM
you could try a little wax on a small spot amd SEE WHAT IT DO! after good cleaning of course.
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Posted: Feb 03, 2010 - 03:18 PM
Any type of grease remover will work, then a gentle soap, like what you would use on your car. Nothing abrasive or you will wear though the powder coat pretty fast. Touch up scratches with black enamel paint. Other than that there isn't much that is cost effective. Re-powder coating is a really expensive idea, you have to get the powercoat stripped first (either chemical or sandblasted).
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
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Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Feb 05, 2010 - 04:19 PM
Oxidation on aluminum will cause paint to flake unless you prime it properly. I just repainted my black anodized (and very scratched up) cross beams. I sanded them and then washed the surfaces with vinegar (the acid in vinegar removes any oxidation) and then as soon as the vinegar dried I sprayed on self-etching primer and then Rustolium and it looks great now. It's a cheap and easy way to do it. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time.
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Posted: Feb 05, 2010 - 04:24 PM
I used Armor All on my old tramp and it made it look like new. It is a bit slippery now though. I'm a newbie so maybe that was a bad idea, but it looks good anyway. -
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Posted: Feb 05, 2010 - 04:28 PM
Have you sailed it like that yet? Let us know how it works out. I've never tried that but I can imagine that it could be way slippery.
Maybe not so bad on a mesh tramp, but a solid vinyl Hobie tramp could be an ice-rink.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Feb 05, 2010 - 05:39 PM
Can you imagine on a really hairy jibe... sliding right off the far hull with your boat on autopilot you dragging from the main sheet! :)
You can buff it with a damp rag right after applying it for a less slippery finish, but still not the best idea. The good news is it will likely wear off in the sun in short order.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Feb 05, 2010 - 11:45 PM
HEY
EVERYBODY THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP I GOING T TRY A FEM OF THESE METHODS
VOLCOMCOM
