While replacing the trampoline on my Nacra 5.7 I had to remove the front crossbar. I was very careful but I snapped off the SS bolt located on the internal beam casting half moon
Does anyone know what I should do next?
Thanks for any help
Jon
Cross beam bolt broken off----AHHHH !
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 12:35 AM
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 06:55 AM
i think you are talking about the anti-rotation bolt, as opposed to the 1 of the 4 beam securing bolts
if it is the anti-rotation bolt you have the choice of simply cleaning up the stub and then using stainless rivets to rivet the stainless strap to the alloy beam to prevent any rotation
however if it is 1 of the 4 securing bolts, or you'd rather something cleaner than the rivet solution read on
what's worked for me when removing a busted steel caliper bolt from an alloy bike fork is to
- buy a set of brand new drills and carefully drill it out, starting with the smallest, try and center as much as possible for later on, finish with the closest size to just under the busted bolt....while doing this you can try soaking the stub in wd40 type stuff and trying easyouts etc. but don't use enough force that you risk busting 1 those off in there! (otherwise it's spark erosion at a machine shop)
if it just won't budge and you'll drilled as much as you can without damaging the threads switch to a dremel and diamond bits to keep working away at the seized metal until the stub is so thin you can see the threads on the other side. then start picking out the bits with a sharp point -
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 06:58 AM
I would try removing the front beam (hoping that the other side does not break off), that should expose some of the bolt that the head snapped off. File 2 sides of the expose area flat to allow vise grips to get a good grip. Find the best kind of liquid wrench or whatever and pour or spray it to the area and let it sit long enough to work before trying to remove the remaining part. I would check with a local machine shop to see what they would use to help loosen the remaining portion, they usually have better stuff than is sold in Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck -
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 11:13 AM
As above, if it is really stuck you are likely better off just rivetting the straps to the beam to prevent rotation. My 5.2 originally had a centre beam for that purpose that was removed. The straps were bolted to the beam and I haven't had a problem with it.
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 01:08 PM
There are broken screw/bolt extractor bits you can buy but they are a hard britle steel and and can break as well if the bolt is in to hard. A little heat may help in drilling and extracting as well.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
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Posted: May 28, 2010 - 05:44 PM
I would think it will be REALLY difficult to ge an 'easy out' into the beam to extract it.
Er, never mind, you can probably just slide the beam off once the straps are unbolted. Doh.
And if the top broke off it probably isn't coming out without some real torque. Not sure about heating it, I would be worried about melting something importatnt. Best bet is the vice grips and penetrating oil or leaving it be.
D.
edited by: Wolfman, May 29, 2010 - 09:51 AM
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 01:33 AM
As the bolt broke due to corrosion on the part of the bolt not yet un-threaded I would drill it and try and screw it back in until it came out the other side.
I'd drill a hole around half the diameter of the bolt and tap a thread into it. Then I'd use a short bolt in the tapped hole and tighten it up until it started to drive the remains of the thread back into the beam.
Once I had the remains on the move I would cut the head off the bolt (so the remains can drop inside the beam) and then remove the beam to retrieve the remains. -
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 10:45 AM
Would suggest also that you buy some easy outs at the hardware store...drill the center of the bolt no more that 1/3rd of the diameter and slide easy out in AFTER you soak whats left of the bolt with some Penetrating Oil. Alternatly TIGHTEN AND LOOSEN using the easy out. It should break loose. I would caution AGAINST using WD40 as it retains moisture. Drilling out the bolt and removing whats left of the old bolt from threads is a last resort. If that is to be the case you can redrill a slightly larger hole and retap it and insert a HELICOIL to bring thread back to the original size and insert a new stock size bolt. Good luck. -
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 04:17 PM
Do yourself a favor; leave the broken internal bolt, keep the half moon as a paperweight and use two rivets through the strap, one at 2 o'clock and one at 10 o'clock.
You'll be back on the water in 15 minutes or less.
Using easy outs will probably cause them to break, rendering the remains undrillable requiring either my suggested solution or extensive surgery. Don't ask me how I know... Depending on how long it takes to order easy outs and replacement parts, this solution could cost you up to two weeks.
Take your pick. -
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 07:14 PM
Thank you all for your input
The port internal bolt is giving me the same amount of resistance even though I soaked it in WD40. I'm pretty certain it is going to double my trouble.
Is there any reason installing stainless steel screws with locking nuts would be a bad choice to fasten the straps to the beam? -
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 09:04 PM
My straps have 2 stainless bolts and locknuts each instead of rivets, seems to work fine for me. I think they are 3/16" bolts.
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: May 29, 2010 - 10:09 PM
When you reassemble everything remember to dip each strap bolt into some type of grease, I used divers high pressure silicone grease, $5 of it will last the rest of your life.
That will prevent any future problems.
It seems whoever put my 5.7 together was a fanatic about that, every single bolt came right out when I dissaembled it last winter. Even the spreader bar adjustments could be turned with your fingers.
I dip the SS bolts that adjust my dock legs in grese. They go into non SS fittings, & so far it has made for easy work.
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Posted: May 30, 2010 - 04:13 PM
Is the bronze block to which the bolt connected to big enough so that I could drill and tap a new one right to the side of the old one? -
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Posted: May 30, 2010 - 11:05 PM
Hard to say, I doubt it. Can you reach it through the front port and feel it? Or is there a bulkhead in the way?
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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