Nacra 5. 2 beam end caps
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 01:47 PM
/second
I took mine to 18-19, as they were still easy to turn (i know, 18 lb-ft is 18 lb-ft, but they weren't trying to bind or anything--the anti seize was doing great) and my rear beams held their shape fine, but the front ones totally collapsed on the track. God help me if I ever need to get the tramp back off. If I'd thought to make the caps ahead of time I certainly would have done so.
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Rob
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Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 04:16 PM
I changed out my beams with a nice used set this year (purchased through thebeachcats.com; thanks for the site Damon) after taking them to 18lb-ft two years ago. manual says to make sure the end caps are in place; now I know why. Lessons learned
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 06:51 PM
How do they look?
We might be able to make them. I would not suggest wood though it will sure work. Fiberglass is a preferable option. Aluminum would be possible, even anodized, there are CNC machinists I have connections to. In the latter case, a batch of a certain number will be necessary, I'd say at least 40 units to make it worthwhile.
Best would be a technical drawing, but a few photos will do for now.
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 09:47 PM
Kbugel, yeah that little gem about NOT tightening straps until caps are in is buried in the assembly manual. I read it several times on the way to Hongkong last week, & picked up a few of those tidbits. I had initially thought the low torque rating was due the brass/bronze(?)fitting in the hull, but the manual does make reference to collapsing the track in the beam.
MUUMP, thanks for the heads up on the bungee abrasion, I hadn't considered that. The holes in the caps look a bit rough around the edges, I'll try to smooth them out a bit, possibly line the hole with epoxy, or a small ferrule. You really can't cover a piece of the bungee, as experimentation showed that it moves to much. I did see where the caps (they were used) had a small screw to retain them, & I replaced that as I don't want to loose the damn things, they are getting hard to replace.
I think Eric goes without, as he likes the handholds, but I can see some newbies,(myself included) slicing open water softened appendages on the exposed beam edges.
edited by: Edchris177, Jun 06, 2010 - 08:49 PM
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 10:46 PM
I need an endcap (4") and I found them for $15 ea. kind of expensive but less than murrays and better than cobbling it up. They are Identical externally to the nacra 5.2 rearbeam caps. There are quite a few available but I would need to purchase more than just one or two they are sold in a package of 25. If anyone wants to go in with me I will purchase and then distribute them. Thanks. -
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Posted: Jun 06, 2010 - 11:33 PM
I'm open to going in for a set of spares (4 for my boat).
For the cost though I would certainly rather look into something more sturdy like a machined aluminum replacement. The reason the end caps are so scarce is the darn things pop off or shatter quite often (in my case they probably get brittle with sun and freeze/thaw).
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 07, 2010 - 11:48 AM
I will jump in for 5
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Nacra 5.2
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Posted: Jul 03, 2010 - 07:42 PM
Here's the pics of my homemade endcaps. WhenI picked up yhis boat, no endcaps came with it. When I saw the prices for new ones I got sticker shock and made my own. Refer to my previous post for instructions.
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Posted: Jul 05, 2010 - 08:39 PM
nacraman57 your image is broken. how do i see your previous posts?
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Posted: Sep 07, 2010 - 06:14 PM
FYI, I just finally made end caps for my 5-2. I used 3" ABS caps like what Nacraman suggested. They came out great!!! This site rocks!!! -
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Posted: Sep 10, 2010 - 03:24 PM
Great thread guys! This is why this site rocks. I too need a set of end caps. Looks like Nacraman 57 has the solution. Thanks Nacraman57!
Interesting Rob, I totally stripped the threads on one of my straps a few years ago and was told 10-12 lbs torque max.18-20 was a no no. Its hard to imagine putting enough force on those to deform the beam and not stripping the plate.! -
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Posted: Sep 10, 2010 - 10:42 PM
If you need the name and number of my anti-seize, just ask, but use at your own risk. =)
edited by: yurdle, Sep 10, 2010 - 09:42 PM
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Rob
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Posted: Sep 10, 2010 - 10:48 PM
Overtightening alone didn't cause the hull to crack there, although it certainly contributed.
"The Sea Was Angry That Day, My Friends, like an Old Man Trying to send Back Soup in a Deli."
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Rob
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Posted: Sep 11, 2010 - 04:40 AM
Rob, Nacra may have missed a layer of laminate or something. Looks like they did on mine. Below my rear beam there was no laminate joining the beam bulkhead to the hull. The bolt started to rip through on my boat after some short steep waves hit the rear beam directly. I added some reinforcement and she's been holding up just fine now. You may want to check your boat too.
edited by: dennisMe, Sep 11, 2010 - 10:40 AM -
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Posted: Sep 11, 2010 - 11:51 AM
Larry, if you look closely at the cross section of the beam you can see why they deform the channel so easily.
A) the beam is aluminum, & fairly thin stock-it bends with little force.
B) the geometry contributes to the problem. Look at Yurdles photo above. We all know that the easiest way to bend a strap is to place an object in the middle, then force both ends down. The beams channel has to be positioned in the worst place in order to properly orientate the tramps bolt rope. The resulting force, when the beam straps are tightened pushes nearly directly down on the channel. The only material to resist the crushing effect is the thin wall of the channel, & of the main beam itself. Look again at the beam end & you see that the force is being applied directly across both he channel & beam, essentially bending 2 thin strips of aluminum over a fulcrum. If the channel were rotated 90* it would withstand a much greater force, but you would have a hard time staying on a vertical tramp.
The engineers decided to use a low torque setting to avoid deforming the channel.
Yurdle, what is the green line through the beam? Nice clean job you did with the inserts as fairleads.
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Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Sep 11, 2010 - 12:07 PM
Green line is a barberhauler. It's a very clean way to install one on these nacras. Works great.
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Rob
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Posted: Sep 12, 2010 - 12:01 PM
Well, if NACRA/Performance Catamaran/NACRA - US is longer offering these I wonder if they're going to stop making/offering the other NACRA specific parts?
Considering the factory is no longer in Santa Ana, CA, one has to look at this?
edited by: JohnES, Sep 12, 2010 - 09:02 AM
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John Schwartz
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Posted: Sep 12, 2010 - 11:16 PM
JohnES, you're saying that NACRA is no longer in Santa Ana??? Where'd they go? Not that it matters...I too share your concern that in the rush to build the next generation Infusion, or Capricorn, or Tiger, us "lowbrow" types are being forgotten. Anyway, this thread is supposed to concern itself with endcaps. And I say, if NACRA can't supply us with what we need, good old "redneck" engineering will! Hope the picture comes out right.
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Posted: Sep 13, 2010 - 07:49 AM
many countries require manufacturers to supply parts for up to 10years after model production stops....
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Posted: Oct 14, 2011 - 03:42 PM
i know this forum is one year old, but i was wondering where "nik1cod2" was getting those endcaps?
did anyone take him up on his offer and get some too?
i need some!!!
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