I've got some. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my 5.5 and 5.2s. I know some of it will get parted out, and all the parts are a pain to find. I'll make some ads soon.
i have found that two dealers in australia are selling cast (alum i'm assuming) 4 inch dia. end caps for $34-$36 each plus s/h. yes, that's 'each'. but they should outlast all of us combined.
j
I've now got 4 extras, from the dead 5.2, in very good shape. I'll try to get them posted.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Guys, just make your own for a few bucks total out of sch 40-3" pvc end caps and pipe. Just leave 3/4" for the tramp slotThere's more detail and explanation in my Beachcats People album
nacraman57, the beams on my 5.8 are 4 inch diameter, not 3 in. but i'm going searching for 4 inch pvc to see if i can make some like yours. i love makin' something from almost nothing! what type of saw did you use to slice the round end off.........a band saw? plywood (fine tooth) blade in a mitre saw?
j
nacraman57, the beams on my 5.8 are 4 inch diameter, not 3 in. but i'm going searching for 4 inch pvc to see if i can make some like yours.
Arch...your beams are the same size as mine. All those early NACRA's had the same beams. The 3" cap is meant to fit OVER the 3" pipe so the rounded end is almost exactly the same diameter as the beam. The short length of 3" pipe goes INSIDE the beam. I think I cut it to a 3/4" length. Most caps I've seen have a line around the circumfrence of the cap end where it was pulled out of the mould. Use this as a guide to cut the cap end off. I used a fine tooth backsaw while rotating the cap in a vice then smoothing the saw marks by sanding it with 120 grit paper laid flat on a tabletop. Take the short 3" pipe, cut out a space for the tramp slot and force it into the beam. You can then measure the gap in the pipe to get a custom fit. For extra strength I used 1" screws to secure pipe to cap. The epoxy should be thick so it doesn't run before setting up
thanks nacraman57........of course they're 3 in. (what was i thinking??) pipe is inside diameter (duh).
can't wait to try this. i've used PC-11 epoxy on my boats when gluing down the hull covers after repairs. it's much stiffer than frosting and dries bullet-proof. that's what i'll use on the caps.
BTW, i emailed jack young at nacra and he said the cap mold is still around but the caps were injection molded and the manuf wanted a min run of several hundred before they would run them again. since it's an old design, nacra didn't wanna invest that much in a supply of new caps.
jon
I wonder if Jack would like to part with the mold . . .
Not much demand for the round end caps. Nacra no longer manufactures the round beams. All the current boats use the D shaped beam extrusions.
mummp: i don't think nacra had the mold. i think they outsourced the parts from someone who could do injection molding.
nacraman57: if the cap is plumbing pvc, then it should be possible to use the solvent that plumbers use to glue the pvc parts together instead of epoxy. it would set up in just minutes and be really strong after it fully cures. if you've done a plastic plumbing install then you know what i mean. it dissolves the pvc slightly, then hardens quickly. clear or purple color.
nacraman57: i've cut my cap and it fits over the beam perfectly but 3" pvc pipe is 3 1/2" O.D. (outside diameter) and this is too small to fit snugly inside the aluminum beam. there is way too much air gap between the pvc pipe and the aluminum beam. did you stretch your pipe out to a larger diameter after you cut it? 3 in pvc just isn't big enough to fit tightly inside the beam.
Arch, yeah seems to me I used a tapered piece of wood to force it against the inside of the beam. With the pipe half in, half out push the wood into the tramp slot gap. That's why you see the screws holding the unit together along with a thick epoxy. It was touchy drilling the holes (best to do it BEFORE the Busch Lite). Mark the depth on the bit so you don't drill through the cap. The PVC wasn't an exact fit but snug enough to hold in place while you put in the retainer screws. Had my doubts about the durability, but it's been over three years and they haven't broke yet. That's why I would recommend epoxy rather than solvent.
ATTENTION MANUFACTURER OF NACRA END CAPS!!!
this forum has had over 2100 views as of Nov 1 2011. apparently lots of cat owners are interested in these caps. won't you please make some more???
a couple of years and how times have changed..........
the solution for this problem of plastic end caps may just be in 3D Printing. these printers are becoming common enough and cheap enough that someone (maybe YOU!) could scan in the different caps once and print them out for all of us who may need them.
just think of the possibilities.......any color, any cat, any beam end, all types of other non-loadbearing parts.........etc.
the start up cost would be too high for an individual to do 4 for himself, but we're talking obsolete, out of stock, long-gone parts that could be replicated.
I have end caps that will work just fine, and they are not too expensive. I will post a picture when I get back in town on Tuesday. Cost would probably be about $10 - $12 each. If there is really a market, I can knock a bunch out pretty quickly.
If there is really a market, I can knock a bunch out pretty quickly.
Maybe start a new thread, NACRA BEAM CAPS, over the years quite a few people have expressed interest in beam caps. I'm sure there has been interest in 40-50 of them, though I realize that is a pretty small run.
PS, the photo of the bent 5.7 tillers might have gotten buried. PM or post if you would like any more specific measurements or photos. I left a proper camera there today.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
I'll probably put the end caps up at the same time I put the wing seats up.
The picture was a big help. I was also going to put my 5.8's rudders up on the 5.7 and compare to see if the bend ends in the same place as it does in your picture. The problem now is I have no desire to work on the boat as summer comes to an end. Every weekend possible is on the water.