golfdad, my jib wires are on the tramp and covered in bits of blue hose. normal tacking without the jib is easy in light and medium winds but difficult in stronger winds. get some practise at backing the boat out of irons and be ready to blow the traveller in tacks as well as the main
mummp, you're probably right on backwinding the main slowing the boat, but pinching is KING on our short courses
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNAsxV1ltMU
i would have put the jib wires under the tramp now but i'm still trying to work out EXACTLY where i want the cuts. i'm already forward and outboard of everyone else it seems but still they seem to want to a bit further forward and outboard
no big rush for tiny performance gains yet as the hobie guys haven't mastered soloing with trap yet
ps on the jib blocks cam angle is everything for easy release. for solo use i have them set so i can easily cleat and uncleat from the back of the boat, when i have crew, as they are further forward, they have to reach right back into my lap to uncleat. so it looks like i need to have different crewed and solo cleat angles
as stated the adjust-ability is only about 45 degrees of movement, if you are outside that you generally need to take the cleat arms off and flip them over so the cleat releases in the opposite position. sometimes VERY hard to beat 25 years of corrosion on the threads though...
edited by: erice, Jun 18, 2010 - 07:54 AM
nacra jib block on a 5.2
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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 - 05:37 PM
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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 - 06:27 PM
Absolutely.
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Philip
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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 - 06:54 PM
Andrew,
I wish that it was someone else that posted this so it does not seem like I'm picking on you, cause I'm not.
The sails are not being pushed downwind. It is always lift (low pressure on the leeward side of the sail) that drives the boat forward. Beachcats, due to their high speeds downwind, move the apparent wind forward a great deal. The barberhauler (on boats with overlapping jibs) is an effective tool to help prevent the jib from stalling on the leach and also choking the main. Thus, putting the jib in a more efficient trim and also providing additional power on the main, by creating a larger slot, provide more lift for the main sail. The barberhaulers intent is not to move the clew forward, but to move the clew outbound. The sheeting tension will be the effective tool to reach the desired shape (flat vs. full) for the jib.
Notice that your shroud telltales will always be flowing aft when sailing downwind (apparent wind due to speed). The most exciting point of sail is to find that point of magic when the jib, main, traveler and barberhauler, and especially heading all comes together and the boat just takes off. The real magic is to maintain this burst of speed and keep it in the groove. I find this point of magic more exciting that spinnaker sailing down wind. It is truly a rush.
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 30, 2010 - 07:10 PM
OK, since everyone is talking about trimming the jib, I have question. On my 5.2, I have the cables above the tramp with the jib blocks attached to the cables. There is a line that runs aft from each block to a cleat on the aft cross member allows for a fore and aft adjustment of the block locations on the cables. I have no idea how to trim this adjustment. Since I sail with (and inevitably end up in a race with) a guy on a 5.7 I usually need all of the speed I can muster so if anyone can give me some tech. input as to what I should be looking for when I adjust the locations of the blocks, I would really appreciate it. -
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Posted: Jul 30, 2010 - 08:57 PM
the line running from the block to the back beam allows you to balance the foot of the sail vs. the leech of the sail so the upper and lower telltales break at the same time, showing you have the best "shape" for that jib-sheet tension
i'm a bit furry on this as i don't have the jam cleats on my rear beam, i just knot the line through the saddle
basically if you are sailing upwind close-hauled and the upper and lower jib telltales are streaming back nicely if you let the jib sheet out slowly and the top leeward telltale stalls first, the jib leech is a little looser than the foot. to correct this adjust that jib block position line so the block goes forward a few inches and then tighten the jib sheet to get both telltales streaming again
continue repeating the process until both rear telltales stall at virtually the same time
i've set mine for close-hauled and left them as that's the point of sail i spend the most time.
it would be slightly different for reaching and a useful adjustment for 1 design racing with crew, it will give you a tiny bit more speed, 0.1%?, but in most cases will not be enough to keep up with a longer boat with a bigger sail, like the 5.7?
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