how do I remove oxidation on top of the hulls on a non skid surface??
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Posted: Jun 28, 2010 - 09:55 AM
The top of my hulls are red I have a P19, and look great when wet, but oxidized and pale when not wet, I tried the oxidation remover from mc guire, but the surface is non skid so the buffin can not be done, I used a brush with this product but it does not work, unless you buff it!! what suggestions do u have thx guys!! -
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Posted: Jun 28, 2010 - 01:25 PM
You can remove oxidation from gellcoat using an Oxalic acid solution. It's cheap and effective, get Oxalic in powder form as 10% strength either as Bar Keepers Friend at your supermarket
it's also available sold as "wood bleach" in tubs at your hardware store.
Need a bucket, scrub brush, and dish-washing gloves. Mix up a strong solution of the powder and water and lightly scrub it into the deck with the brush. Do a three foot section at a time and leave the wet brushed surface to soak for 20 minutes (don't let it dry) then rinse it off with a strong blast from a hose.
If your deck non-skid is really bad you may need to repeat or scrub harder.
Important! Now your deck is clean as a whistle, just beautiful, but it is also porous and ready to get stained again. You'll need to seal it with a fiberglass sealant or wax.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jun 29, 2010 - 01:02 PM
Rocco,
Here's the stuff I mentioned this past weekend. I think west marine still carries it as well. Go slow and work small areas at a time. It'll take a fairly significant amount of elbow grease but it's an amazing product for removing oxidation.
http://www.westmarine.com…11151&partNumber=4756417
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Posted: Jun 29, 2010 - 04:45 PM
Thank you for all your input.. -
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 10:27 AM
So, lets review this topic one more time. I just picked up a P-16 with white hulls and faded yellow non-skid tops. What are the products recommended to clean the oxidation off these surfaces. The hulls themselves seem like an easy answer.
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Dave R.
Grand Haven, MI
'84 Prindle 16
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 11:55 AM
I used and recommended cleaners containing Oxalic acid to remove oxidation for years. I always used Barkeepers friend but others used various types of toilet bowl cleaners that also contain 10% Oxalic acid.
These do work, but there are problems. These do nothing to keep the boat clean, in fact the opposite.
These work best on white boats, and after you finish scrubbing with them your boat will be very clean and white. Unfortunately it is also even more prone to staining by tannin's or simply dirt in the water, leaving a "bathtub ring", and the oxidation returns very soon even if the boat never hit the water. I would clean my boat before going to a regatta so it would look good on the trailer but by the end of the weekend it looked nasty for the trip home.
Also using these to strip oxidation does nothing to return the shine, it just gives a dull white finish.
So that means that after you clean with Oxalic you need to wax or seal the boat somehow which can be a lot of work. Once I cleaned with Oxalic and then brought the boat to a detailer and had it waxed with boat wax for $100, it turned out shiny and lasted most of one summer without stains but really didn't "pop".
Two years ago I finally got around to trying one of the "miracle" fiberglass chemical restorers. I got the kit from Poliglow that includes a powerful oxication/stain stripper and a chemical sealer/finish, it was actually quite a bit of work (more time than hard labor) because there are a lot of steps to do it right and the finish requires many coats (at least five, maybe more on a really deteriorated gel-coat).
The results were spectacular and the boat finally was not only really white, but shined like a new boat. the product has been on for nearly two years and still has a shine, the boat does not pickup any stains when sailed in muddy or contaminated water.
I've recently seen a certain older red Nacra 20 that I knew to be heavily oxidized and even after cleaning/polishing had kind of a murky/splotchy look. It was treated wtih Poliglow and I didn't recognize it as the same boat, now has a beautiful deep shiny red finish.
The Poliglow kit is expensive $69.95, because it is packaged to handle much larger boats than our beachcats. If you have a buddy in the same area you could split it, there is plenty for two beachcats.
http://www.amazon.com/Pol…ts-Inc-Kit/dp/B00409S8AG
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 11:55 AM
my best was with sno bol (acid) to remove stains, 800 grit for tough spots... and New Glass2 to seal the gelcoat and it build up (after many coats) like clear coat and shines shines shines...
now 75 days in the Florida sun, and about 15 sails... its holding up pretty well.. time for a little touch up but sooooo glad to not have to sno bol / seal it every month -
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 12:19 PM
Yeah, the top brands of this type chemical approach seem to be New Glass, Poliglow, and Vertglass. There are probably others being marketed.
Here's an old 1999 Practical Sailor article that does a pretty good job of explaining what it takes to make gel-coat shiny and why.
http://www.myboatstore.com/article.htm
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 12:24 PM
Also, if you happen to be really good with a high-speed buffer lots of people still prefer the old
- Strip oxidation with Oxalic
- Rubbing compound
- Polish
- Wax
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Damon Linkous
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 12:52 PM
they all seem to work the same way and are probaby the same product (or close)
just to be clear i used newglass2. it was about $40 and i used about 1/3rd of the bottle. It requires about 5 coats (but the more the coats, the more the shine and protective layers it builds up)
it couildn't be easier to use... clean boat.. apply 1 coat to an area... wait to dry (about 30 seconds here in the fl/africa sun) and re-apply another coat. Getting under the boat, around the catbox and trying to avoid getting product all overmyself wasn't very fun. next time i would take the boat off the trailer -
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Posted: Jul 19, 2011 - 01:39 PM
gonna have to look into this. The lake was up this year and now there is lots of rotting vegetation making the shoreline a mucky. In one weekend sailing I developed pretty noticeable ring on grime on the Prindle.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 06:50 AM
Does this stuff make the hulls slippery? -
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 08:59 AM
A 2nd vote for Poligo. Damon informed me of it and I purchased it. I had started polishing and just about needed elbow surgery after getting through one foot of one side of one hull. I think polishing actually makes the surface a bit slicker than the Poliglo, but not by much. But the application and results make it a pretty darn good trade-off, to me. My 1980 Nacra 5.2 had a TON of oxidation and hull stains. The Polyprep made quick work of removing most of the stains (a few go all the way into the gel coat), and ALL of the oxidation. The polyglo went on easy and still looks great after 6 months. When I was at the Mug Race in May, several sailors had a hard time believing that the boat was over 30 years old. It shines like it is new. I put 6 coats on this Spring; took me the better part of one afternoon to do it all. Think I'll put another coat on in the next few weeks to keep it fresh. It's so easy to apply, it should only take me an hour to "touch up" the entirety of both hulls. No regrets.
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Force 5 project boat
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Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 09:10 AM
I 3rd that motion, have been using Poliglo for a number of years now, used to wax and polish but would acquire "mudstain", that line down entire length of hull from the mudpools around here. Switched to Poliglo and no more problems, Poliprep will remove light-medium oxidization, 800/1000 grit wet sandpaper removes heavy oxidization, it's a clearcoat that seals, protects and makes hulls shine like new, used the poliprep with a hard bristle brush for the non-slip areas, worked great.
Turbo
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 10:11 AM
What did you use to apply the Poliglo on the non-slip areas and how many coats did you apply to same area?
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Dave R.
Grand Haven, MI
'84 Prindle 16
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 10:28 AM
Okay, I see they also make Poli Grit for non skid surfaces......is this the same product and just repackaged with a roller to apply it?
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Dave R.
Grand Haven, MI
'84 Prindle 16
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 11:32 AM
I put the poliglow on everything including the "non-skid" deck pattern. I took a lot of time cleaning the non-skid with PoliPrep and a stiff brush until it was perfectly clean. You must do this because the PoliGlow sealer will seal in any dirt specs in the pattern.
The decks did indeed become very slippery when the Poliglow was fresh but that was temporary as the areas that you have contact with get rubbed a little less glossy.
Decks on a beachcat aren't the same as decks on a a power boat or yacht, you aren't strolling around (I hope) on the decks of a beachcat where you need strong non-skid for footing.
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Damon Linkous
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 08:42 PM
Hey Damon, I just got a H16 ( sails great -hulls are very solid ) I'm signing up at DSC, arkabuttla lake. Heard about you from the Rooke crew here in Memphis. I really need to clean/polish/protect my hulls so this info here is great!
Plan on heading down this weekend with my GF, prob sunday, but will be glad to meet ya soon i hope!
Tim
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Tim Grover
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Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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Posted: Jul 20, 2011 - 11:04 PM
Hey that's great. I've yet to sail at Arkabutla this year due to a combination of weather and flood water levels. I think the water is still so high there is no beach at Hernando Point where Delta Sailing Association is located.
There is a floating dock but it's not ideal for launching our beachcats.
It's been a crazy year, especially when the water level went up 25 feet in less than a week.
http://deltasailing.com/i…ge&func=display&pageid=2
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Damon Linkous
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Posted: Jul 21, 2011 - 12:59 PM
A lot of people do not like poliglow, do you have to keep reapplying? That is what I hear. I know that wet sand paper and a good rubbing compoud work wonders.
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