I cannot tell exactly what components I am missing for the Jib. I have the jib itself, Jib pigtail and two blocks. I'm getting worried that I am missing some expensive parts.
Can anyone outline what I should be seeing for me
Much thanks
Jon
Nacra 5-7 Jib system (missing parts???)
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Posted: Jul 03, 2010 - 02:56 PM
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Posted: Jul 03, 2010 - 03:35 PM
Sounds like you are close. For the a minimal setup you need the following starting from the top and working your way down:
1. Bullet block that attaches at the top of the forestay (many are simply a part of the forestay)
http://www.murrays.com/mm…_Code=C-BL&Store_Code=MS
2. 30-40' of 1/4" or 3/16" line for a halyard (some halyards are half wire half line but line works)
3. Halyard Shackle to attach the top of the jib to the halyard.
http://www.murrays.com/mm…de=C-MO-FA&Store_Code=MS
3.Jib itself
4. Jib Tack Hanger (little rectangular piece of stainless that attaches the tack of the jib to the forestay adjuster), use a 1/4 shackle in a pinch.
http://www.murrays.com/mm…e=56-9890&Category_Code=
5. 2 Jib Clew blocks with pigtail (This one is attached to a steel loop but it will work, you can shackle or tie it to your jib clew).
http://www.murrays.com/mm…_Code=C-BL&Store_Code=MS
6. Jib Sheet (approximatley 40' of 5/16" line.
7. Jib Blocks - these are the expensive bits that hopefully you have.
http://www.murrays.com/mm…y_Code=C-J&Store_Code=MS
8. Jib Wires - 2 - 8 foot lengths of 1/4" low stretch line that go from the rear beam to the front. Used to mount you blocks on, unless you have tracks on the hulls for that purpse.
9. Jib Block Leaders - 2 3 foot lengths of 1/4" low stretch line that attach the block ot the rear beam and position them for/aft on your tramp (provided you don't have hull tracks).
10. Piece of old hose, to prevent the jib blocks from wrecking the jib block wires.
Here's a pick of my N5.2 to help illustrate a bit:
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=74488
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures&g2_itemId=74387
EdChris Hilliard probably has some better pics from his 5.7.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jul 03, 2010 - 06:07 PM
The jib system on the 5.2 and 5.7 are much, much, different. -
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Posted: Jul 03, 2010 - 07:46 PM
How so?
From everything I have read (in the manuals) and seen the old 5.0, 5.2, 5.7 and 5.8 all used the same jib system. The only diffence is how they are attached to the boat, either a Jib wire system (pre 1985) or the jib track mounted to the hulls (post 1985). There is also a 4 way jib system that strings a wire between the hull mounted tracks, but without a pic I can't determine which one Jon has so I described the 2 most common.
That being said EVERTHING from the jib blocks to the top of the mast is interchangeable between the different boats. They even have the same part numbers if you order them.
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jul 04, 2010 - 01:08 PM
Thank you for the help
it turns out that I am missing the blocks which will be about 300 bucks for the pair.
I,m wondering if the prior owner sailed with out the blocks.
Is there a way to ghetto rig the jib, just to get it out on the water? I haven't sailed it yet
Jon
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Posted: Jul 04, 2010 - 01:34 PM
Not really, you can rig without the jib and get er out but you really need the extra purchase power of the 2 block system. One possibility is to rig the clew blocks as the jib blocks and tie the sheet directly to the jib clew, but like I said without the cleat and extra purchase power you are going to have a heck of a time holding it tight.
If you are going to buy new you can go with these blocks:
http://www.apsltd.com/p-3…50-cam-matic-becket.aspx
they are a little cheaper.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jul 05, 2010 - 04:54 AM
my 5.2 came without the original harken fiddle blocks
i got some mainsheet blocks from small sailing dinghies to work for a few years until the nylon teeth wore out
then bought some old harken blocks for a 5.7 from dan berger from this site's classifieds
keep an eye out for them here and on ebay, pretty much any similar looking blocks will do for a year or 2 and cost about $50 for a pair, correct harken blocks or others with metal jaws for the sheet grip, are about $100 a pair 2nd hand
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harken-2-25-Jib-Block-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19bd9c7230QQitemZ110555329072QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-Harken-Ratchet-Becket-cleat-Block-s-Hobie-18-Jib-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3caec9ec23QQitemZ260630506531QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear
edited by: erice, Jul 05, 2010 - 07:38 PM -
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Posted: Jul 05, 2010 - 08:30 AM
I have a set of Harken jib blocks with ratchets in good working order that I will sell for $100 plus shipping, probably $10. Reply to hullflyer1@netzero.com if interested.
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 12:06 AM
Johnny, if your 5.7 has the tracks on the hull, you don't need much. You should have a little slider on each track that gets locked in place with a pullknob. You shackle the jib block to the strap eye on that little slider. If you get the standup springs, bonus, if not they're only 99 cents. The jib sheet then runs from becket up to the block near the jib clew, back through ratchet,across to opposite ratchet, up to clew block, & back to becket. It sounds way more complicated than it is.
You should have the block attached to the mast for raising the jib.
Here is the bridle, showing the tack hangar & shackle you attach the jib tack to. The wire on the left is the fore stay. The thin wire in the center is the jib halyard, the shackle that attaches to the head of the jib has been hooked to the tack shackle for convenience while in storage.
That 1st Ebay looks like it is only for 1 block, you need 2, & it is non ratchet. The second auction is a good deal, if it doesn't get bid up. Wait til 20 seconds before auction close & try for a deal, or buy HULLFLYERS, then it sounds like all you need is the jib sheet line. You can soak the blocks in clean water overnight if they are full of salt.
I have seen several pictures showing boats using various lengths of pigtail to clew block. The longer that line is, the less jib sheet you will need.
Sorry, I don't have a photo of my 5.7 rigged,(I'm up at the cottage now but don't have a camera or cell phone, I'll get one if you want a pic) here is the top end, mine uses a half wire half line halyard. Don't worry about rigging a 3:1 halyard, Nacra says for recreational sailing just stretch the wrinkles out.
Until you get the required hardware, just sail without the jib. It would be a PITA to use without any means to cleat, especially if you are solo.
I was solo today in 12-18 mph with no jib. As long as you have some speed it will come around every time. Solo, all your weight is at the rear when you flip the stik around the blocks. The bows will be clear of the water. They catch quite a bit of wind, & once through the eye they will pivot the boat quickly. If you blow it, well just point the rudders in the direction you want the stern to go & wait a few seconds. As the boat drifts back the stern will go where you want it.
Once you rig the jib, make sure you string a preventer (shock cord from one end of the DS rod upwards through the diamond wires, around the front of the mast, & across to the other side of the DS rod)so the jib blocks near the clew don't get hung up at the mast base every time you tack.
I'm pretty new to my 5.7, it's a handful in over 15 mph, I can't get full speed out of it then because I lack the weight to hold it down when I power up. I'm not trapping out solo til I get a bit more experience, or have somebody else around in case rescue is needed. It's pretty quiet here during the week.
edited by: Edchris177, Jul 05, 2010 - 11:30 PM
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 01:33 AM
Johnny,
Hullflyers offer is pretty smokin, if you can get those from him you are well ahead of the game. Everything else can be jury rigged somehow relatively cheaply. I agree with EC you don't need a fancy downhaul on the jib halyard, I just tension my halyard straight into the cleat no block or anything.
EC, yeah those are better pics than I have for my rig. Mine is currently roller furling (finally worked the kinks out and it works fantabulous) and has barber haulers so it is a little confusing. Glad to hear you are getting her out. More than I can say for myself, working like crazy, praying for wind this weekend. Get your self a good harness and you will be set! I still owe you a fiddle block for your downaul that I will send out this week. By the way I figured out a ghetto 3:1 downhaul the works great without a block, I will take a pick this weekend.
I love those 5.7s and hope to own one someday as my second cat (maybe a 570). :)
D.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 12:00 PM
I haven't set up my roller furling yet, still playing with the boat so as to get a feel for it. I missed great wind on the long weekend, got food poisoned in Hongkong & was incapacitated on the flight home. In between bouts of puking so hard I thought my toenails would shake loose I told the other crew NOT to divert to Japan, I'd live long enough to get home. Needless to say I was so weak for the next few days a 3 yr old could beat me up, I didn't dare launch a boat in the 30 click winds we had.
Good to go now though, temps are in the 30s, water is 80F, so I'm out everyday.
My biggest challenge is returning to dock. I've got a fairly constricted spot to land, & can't just barrel a.s.s. it into the 20' beach between the rocks as I don't have hands to wrestle it on shore. I've found the boat will crank a 180 if you are aggressive with the tiller. It scrubs all the speed, but my object is to end up pointing back out to sea, in irons, beside my dock. I can then lose the main sheet, jump off the bow to keep it headed windward & guide it to either the dock tie up or onto the lift. In a good wind it would be very east to bang into a boat lift, dock or solid rock breakwall. My neighbor has a dock about 50' away, so that's the slot I have to work with.
I just got the lift fine tuned, of course it was the 3rd out if 3 possibilities that worked best, so I don't have to wrestle it over the breakwall solo, or leave it tied to the dock overnight.
PS those little ring dings in the kit must not be a high grade of stainless, they do stick to a magnet, don't ask how I know.
edited by: Edchris177, Jul 06, 2010 - 11:02 AM
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 12:14 PM
If you can do that.. you can sail it backwards the rest of the way.
in-case your not up to speed on that move: once your in irons. release the jib (furl when you add your furler), center the main by sheeting in the travler and main (not hard) and move all the weight you can to the bows/beam (no need to remove rudders, just move your body(s) .. and you will float backwards into your beach :) -
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 02:40 PM
Thanks Andrew, I'll try that. I was letting main & traveler go loose, figuring they would find the "null", & I would drift back. It always ended up turning sideways, or downwind, then things were a scramble.
Weight forward sounds like the key, with it back, the bows are in the air & want to fall off the wind.
Don't you have to tie the rudders center? If they are off won't the boat swing as it backs up, or do you just extend your stick all the way so you can hold it from the beam?
edited by: Edchris177, Jul 06, 2010 - 01:48 PM
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Posted: Jul 06, 2010 - 11:00 PM
Oh yeah Jon, I should have mentioned that when sailing without your jib you will find the helm quite heavy, assuming it was balanced in the first place.
You can turn the little white plastic screws all the way out, that will let the rudders rake forward. It doesn't seem like much, but on my 5.7 it makes a huge difference. For what it's worth, I just put up with the heavy helm when sailing without jib, as I have it set for both sails.
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
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Posted: Jul 07, 2010 - 10:16 AM
Turning the screw out rakes the rudder back, increasing weather helm. If you want to reduce weather helm, turn the screws in to rake forward.
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 07, 2010 - 10:48 AM
Do we have semantics mixed up, or possibly you are thinking of a different system.
Here is the rudder assembly as it came off my 5.7. If you turn the white screw OUT it will allow the rudder to move FORWARD, eventually letting the rudder edge contact the casting itself. This will reduce weather helm, or tiller tug.
Turning the screw all the way in will prevent the rudder from moving as far forward, or raking it back, however you want to think about it, increasing weather helm.
What surprised me was the total travel is a pretty small amount, yet it had quite a large influence on the feel of the boat.
edited by: Edchris177, Jul 07, 2010 - 09:48 AM
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Jul 07, 2010 - 10:56 AM
Thanks, a picture is worth a thousand words. The screws I've used/own can be adjusted while the casting is on the boat from the outside. Just turn the delrin screw around, this allows you to adjust while on the water if you like, with the rudder up.
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 07, 2010 - 10:59 AM
Here is the solution when that happens:
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 07, 2010 - 11:47 AM
I did forget to mention the rudders... sorry
Yes, you need to lift the rudders... totally out of the water.
my method is this
as i am turning into irons I:
already have 1 rudder up
release the jib (and furl if i can, if not i furl at the end)
center the traveler (if not centered)
sheet the main (in not super tight)
lift the second rudder out of the water
move forward
release any downhaul
l
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