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  • andrewscott
    QuoteA well sealed mast acts the same as the baby bob but you can never tell when the sealant is breaking down and its time to reseal so the baby bob is a fool proof safety item.


    you can always take off the 2 shackles (stay and trap) and place your mast in the water for a few minutes to check for leaks.edited by: andrewscott, Aug 19, 2010 - 12:28 PM



    Thats what i do but a more casual type sailor may not want to do that every few months or they may not remember to do it. Either way you look at it its a extra level of protection to going turtle. We often sail 10-15 miles offshore on any given weekend and when your that far out the look of the baby bob isnt on your mind...You will enjoy the feeling of protection it gives you.

    We put our mast in the pool and use it like a pool noodle!
  • Quoteyou can always take off the 2 shackles (stay and trap) and place your mast in the water for a few minutes to check for leaks.

    i had this in mind.

    QuoteI have a baby bob and all mounting hardware if your interested. PM me if you want it.

    will 32 lbs of displacement be enough for me?

    QuoteBe careful of SLO, check this thread.

    i saw it and its clear where your heart lies icon_smile i too am a florida fan ill check them out

    QuoteProperly painting is a huge undertaking, so first try some serious wet-sanding and polishing, you might be amazed how good it looks. But like I said before, if you have big ugly damage that can't be "buffed out" then painting is always an option.

    if i can paint a car i think i can paint a boathttp://www.facebook.com/h…0957280947&ref=fbx_album
    but the sanding is giving me trouble i power buffed it, but too much work for too little return. and currently im just using 130 grit. whats the best way i can go about wet sanding it?

    --
    Nacra 6.0 NA
    Ogden Dunes, IN
    --


  • QuoteProperly painting is a huge undertaking, so first try some serious wet-sanding and polishing, you might be amazed how good it looks. But like I said before, if you have big ugly damage that can't be "buffed out" then painting is always an option.

    if i can paint a car i think i can paint a boathttp://www.facebook.com/h…0957280947&ref=fbx_album
    but the sanding is giving me trouble i power buffed it, but too much work for too little return. and currently im just using 130 grit. whats the best way i can go about wet sanding it?[/quote]

    OH NO!!! Way way way to coarse.

    Depending on how far gone the gelcoat will decide what grit to start with.

    I'm in the middle of doing my new H18 and started with a GOOD once over with 400 followed by a once over of 600 followed by a strong 1500 followed by a 2000 grit once over and then a polishing compound followed by 2 coats of good wax.

    It's one helluva lotta elbow grease but in my opinion worth it. My once dull faded hulls are coming right back to life with a nice bright shine.
  • QuoteI'm in the middle of doing my new H18 and started with a GOOD once over with 400 followed by a once over of 600 followed by a strong 1500 followed by a 2000 grit once over and then a polishing compound followed by 2 coats of good wax.


    2000? thats smoother than paper, im painting it not buffing it. i want to give the paint something to stick to


    --
    Nacra 6.0 NA
    Ogden Dunes, IN
    --
  • I have been sailing this summer and flip over the cat 4 times. I will be placing a mast float on for next season. I sail solo often and I would prefer to be able to right the boat by myself.
  • Kevin, the baby bob would probably be enough if your mast is sealed. You don't have to get the entire mast out of the water and a little buoyancy at the top of the mast goes a long way with such a large lever. What you are really going for is to get that top hull closer to vertical and make the best use of your body weight leverage.

    Even moving that top hull a few inches can make a huge difference. One of the self righting systems is just a short quick release extension on the shrouds to bring the top hull closer to the center of gravity.


    Before spending the money I would try out attaching a tether ball or two or even a couple of empty milk jugs to the head plate on your main or halyard shackle. If one doesn't do it try 2 and then you will know for sure if a baby or mama bob is what you need.

    Also revisit your righting technique Mast facing the wind so the tramp helps push you over, all sheets uncleated and manually let out so the main is hanging close to straight down, righting line attached to the mast base and thrown OVER the top hull, you hanging out as far as you can without touching the water in line with the front beam. That will give you help from the wind, the most leverage and least resistance. If you still can't right it you need more buoyancy in the mast and/or more weight (a water bag).

    Some boats just need quite a bit of weight to right for some reason. Hobie 16s for instance seem to need way more weight to right than many 18 footers, probably because of the low hull volume.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • a gallon of water weighs 8.35 pounds. with milk jugs i should be able to get a pretty accurate measurement of how much buoyancy i need. ill get back to you Wolfman. my technique is faulty too i need some practice.

    --
    Nacra 6.0 NA
    Ogden Dunes, IN
    --
  • I got one of the floats from the Murray's catalog, figure better to be on the safe side because righting my old prindle is extremely difficult by myself if I don't manage to catch some wind under the sails to help.
  • Yeah, some boats are just a pain to right no matter what you do. Even the same model of boat can vary depending on year of manufacture (i.e. the pre and post 1985 Nacras right differentely because of the change from straight fibreglass hulls to sandwich construction) and the rig setup. Once you have followed all the advice for 'power righting' (some of which I repeated above) and you still can't get the boat up, it's time to find an assist that works for you. Mast floats work as well as water buckets and righting poles. Mast floats are probably the simplest solution to start with.



    edited by: Wolfman, Aug 20, 2010 - 10:28 PM

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • i agree with wolfman. sailing the H16 this summer and could not right it by myself of course it was windy. but a guy in a powerboat come by. dangerous i know but all he did has lift the top of my mast and presto. so I will be placing a baby-bob this winter on my mast. security is a good thing when your tired from pushing the limits all day and you get a really big gust on a windy day.

  • Quotef i can paint a car i think i can paint a boathttp://www.face...ef=fbx_album
    but the sanding is giving me trouble i power buffed it, but too much work for too little return. and currently im just using 130 grit. whats the best way i can go about wet sanding it?

    Uh no that is not the same. Unless your car is a Corvette. Of course you made have hobie 18 that is made of steel.

    --
    Nacra 5.2
    --
  • i also painted my house... still not qualified? the point is im self taught i can figure it out

    --
    Nacra 6.0 NA
    Ogden Dunes, IN
    --
  • Your right, but I would not suggest using anything over 1000 grit uless you are planning on gel coating again.. Find a small flexible sanding block, Dip in water and sand. Also be sure to use a buffer not a polisher. There is a big difference. You would be amazed at how good it would look afterwards. Also no cheap rubbing compound.

    --
    Nacra 5.2
    --
  • i went to 1500 then buffed it it look pretty good. time constraints might just leave it that way

    --
    Nacra 6.0 NA
    Ogden Dunes, IN
    --

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