OK, so I have made my maiden voyage with my new (1980) Nacra 5.2 cat. Once rigged, all went well. Have to get used to the tacking technique with this boat
I had to step and unstep the mast three times due to fouled lines and/or wayward halyards before launching. Had to do it with the boat on the "beach" (dirt/sand) at edge of GA lake) with bows down towards the H2O. How does one step a mast while the boat is still on the trailer? It is a beast for me and my bigger-than-me 17 year old son to tackle. also, is there a good way to secure the halyards so they don't wind up climbing the mast while stepping.
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Eric C
Force 5 project boat
Unnamed
Previous boat
1980 Nacra 5.2
"Double Vision"
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Rigging questions for Nacra 5.2
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physically lifting the mast is more leverage and technique than brute strength, so it'll get better as you do it.
When on the trailer, but not on the truck (which is 99% of the time for me) and stepping the mast, I put a jackstand under the back beam of the trailer so it doesn't rock.
You can tie a line to one or both of the trap lines, and the person in front can help by pulling those as the 'stepper' lifts, then they're in position to connect the forestay when it's up.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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If your bows are facing downslope it should be relatively easy to step. Your technique is probably killing you.
The hardest part is the first couple of feet when you are on the ground and the transition to the tramp. What I do is have an 8 ft step ladder handy. I place the step ladder near the rear beam. Start at the very top of the mast and walk it towards the boat at shoulder height. Don't exend your arms until you get to the tramp. Raise the mast up onto the ladder and rest it there while you get onto the tramp. From there on in it's pretty easy. It also helps if you attach a line to the forestay and have someone up front helping you out, rather than 2 people on the mast. Makes it quite a bit less stressful.
Tie your halyards to the cleats at the bottom of the mast! There is nothing worse than stepping your mast and sending your halyard to the moon, the you have to unstep, or find a long pole with a hook, or a 6 year old who is really good at climbing trees (don't try this last one). We've all done that at one time or another, I've probably done it a half a dozen times before I learned my lesson. There is also a strap eye about 3 feet from the bottom of the mast that is to be used to keep your halyards from flying around. If you put a plastic clip or small caribiner on there it is very convenient to clip your halyards to.
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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With the trailer hooked to the truck.
I place the mast on the ball and wrap the trailer winch strap twice around the mast at the rear beam. The crew will crank on the winch while I stand on the tramp and guide the mast up. All of my halyards and the fore stay are secured at the base of the mast with a shock cord "the jib jam preventer". Don't forget if you have enough room on the beach you can pull the boat over to straighten on lines.
edited by: skarr1, Sep 13, 2010 - 05:50 PM -
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Lots of ways to make this easier on the trailer how well it works depends a bit I guess on the type and placement of your mast riser on your trailer. mine goes straight up from the trailer about 5-6 feet. I use a Winch attached to this. I tied off my front 2 trap lines with a piece of line through the thimble NOT THE DOG BONE to a point on the outside the front beam. not to tight but enough tension to keep the mast from swaying side to side when you start. I unhook a rear trap line and use a stainless steel carabiner to connect the thimble to the hook on my winch. I do not have a gin pole but would like one. You do all this right after you PINed the mast base in while your son is holding it on his shoulder or resting on something. Then have your son walk the mast up hand over hand until at the rear beam while you begin to winch it in. This give enough height to get a decent bite on it with the winch. Once you have it to where it is holding on it's own as far as he can reach make sure you are using ratcheting winch that is locked in and if needed you can hold it while he jumps up on the tramp. After some practice or with a small step stool he can probably do it while you stay at the winch. Once he is in position you can continue winching while he tends it with a little upward pressure. He really doesn't have to lift it just keep it center. He should always be ready to move quickly if something fails. Once vertical he can help unpin so it can rotate freely while you connect the forestay. The mast should not go anywhere as the trap wire is holding just a bit forward. it should be enough to connect the forestay. Once it is connected you remove tension unhook the trap line and replace it where it goes
As for halyards, my ring is connected where my boom connects and the other end get cleated off at eh bottom of the mast. However a figure * stopper knot may be enough to keep from disappear inside or up the mast. Similar with my jib halyard. When I put the boat away I make sure both ends are secured at the bottom of the mast. Also If you have to you can tip your boat over sideways on the beach to retrieve an errant halyard with a mind of it's own rather than un-stepping the mast.
With experience you'll find the best placement for side shrouds and traps lines to make sure they are not getting tangled on the way up
NO WINCH:
If you don't have or don't want to use a winch you can setup the same way for sway control then you or son gets on the tramp while the other walks it up and hands it off to the other. Then the person on the tramp levers it into place and the one on the ground goes around to attach the forestay while the other leans on it to hold it in place while being attached. Reverse fro take down just make sure whoever is on the ground does not stand right under it. Have them stand to the side and step in and grab it when they can reach it.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
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