I just bough a 1977 Nacra 5.2 the mainsheet traveler car is an old non harken car that is in a zip lock bag in pieces looks like the same car that is on the outhaul on the boom anyone know who made this car? Can I rebuild it or do they sell them anymore or have a newer one to replace it?
edited by: fa1321, Sep 17, 2010 - 12:33 AM
Nacra 5.2 Traveler car?
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I have an extra one of you can't rebuild that one. I'd be on the lookout for a harken car/track replacement, though.
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Rob
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the original fitment on the older boats was schaefer i think
my 1982 jib halyard has a schaefer shackle on it
these people might be of help
http://schaeferhardware.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=381
if not the harken car would probably be a good upgrade
if you are looking for track try to get as long as possible, later nacras had tracks that went over the beam straps and right to the end. for better downwind performance? -
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the later Nacras had extruded aluminum tracks, which is why they went to the ends. Lighter, cheaper, simpler, etc. The beam straps went through a narrow slot machined into the extrusion.
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Philip
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Some early 80's had the extruded Harken track but it only went between the straps.
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Rob,
Thanks for the offer on the traveler car I will get back to you on that. I bough this boat with no trailer & in peices he took it apart to store it. So far he has brough me the title,tramp,blocks and sails then this weekend he is bringing me the hulls,beams & mast so depending on the condition of the rest of the stuff and if everything it needs to complete it is there I may restore it if not I might just part it out. I kinda want to sail a 5.2 to be honest Im not loving the 5.5sl so much. -
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What do you like better about the 5.2 than the 5.5? The beam?
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Never sailed a 5.2 but the boomless rig on the 5.5sl sheets really hard so the boom sounds nice and I could solo a 5.2 more often. -
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I've only sailed a 5.5 a couple times but I found it extremely easy to oversheet (a boomless squaretop).. not sure if that's 'really hard' or really easy.
However, the boomless rig on a 5.0 seems to me to feel like it sheets just like any other cat, so maybe it all depends on the sail and rigging.
What ratio do you use on your main blocks?
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I just added a Harken ratchamatic 7:1 with New England Salsa line 9 or 10mm whatever they stock at West marine it has a factory mylar sail and to sheet it in hard it takes two hands and if it gets cleated by accident you can get into trouble fast. Its pretty annoying and its really killing my desire to go sailing my last boat was a H16 and I could not wait to go out on the weekends! Everyone has good things to say about Nacra's so I though it was an upgrade but Im starting to wonder so I thought maybe a 5.2 would be a little closer to the H16 and it has a boom so no more super tight sheet. Maybe I just moved up too soon. -
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I don't think that the sheeting force difference is due to having a boom or not.
One thing I'd recommend, and I'm probably totally alone in this, is to set your cleat on your main so that you can't cleat it even if you try from the wire. I can only cleat mine when I'm a few inches from it, which I do for tacking and jibing. I have a 7:1 with a square top, so it pulls back pretty good, especially with 2 on the wire, but it also gives me a great 'feel' for the boat while I'm trapped. Anticipating heel is extremely easy, which makes it very controllable. I don't think its the best idea long term, especially in a large body like you guys have, but I've found it very handy for learning my 5.2.
I'm really surprised that you have to use two hands, though. Maybe try an 8:1? Is your sail blown out?
The 5.2 is an excellent solo boat. It's fun and wet, and very forgiving. The 5.5 is also an excellent boat, really a nicer boat IMO, but maybe not the best for soloing. I'd think the extra 6" of beam would help, though.
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Track question for you all. My old boat is a 1986; however, the prior owner had the mast ride on the track at some point, so there is a chunk taken out of the front of the track, say 5/16". I have been searching for track inserts. Is there a way to replace but a short section of track?
Thanks.
bn
edited by: bn, Sep 17, 2010 - 07:21 PM -
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I have a Nacra traveler car on a short piece of track. Pete 909-800-5237 -
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Floyd,
IMHO Nacra 5.5SL is an excellent boat for soloing. I do this all the time. In fact I had a crew only once this season. It's too bad you are losing a desire to go out. See may be my experience can help you.
First, it is impossible for me to right it solo (I am 170lb), so I bought big righting bag from Murrays and never had this problem afterwards. Gives me confidence and desire to push the envelope. I recall swimming 8 times this season (not counting swimming from F18) and only twice used someones help to right the cat.
Second, I purchased roller furling kit and jib sock from Murrays and any weather become good for sailing. In light wind, big jib makes all the difference. If gets too heavy, I roll it up and go under main alone. The sock cuts at least 5 minutes off of rigging time. Had to rake the mast a little, got a little weather helm, but as a result got rid of lee helm when under both sails.
My main blocks are original, but I stepped down the sheet, believe using 3/8 instead of original 7/16. Thinner line makes it easier to go around the blocks and to sheet in. All the blocks have an adjustment for sheeting angle. Just play with that and find an optimal one for you. I often cleat main, because uncleating is so easy. Yes the sheet is tight, but the main is big. I am thinking about using some prebend next season.
The boat feels very strong and has excellent range of depowering. I never pitchpoled singlehanded, which would happen often on H16. Mylar sail doesn't get blown, like H16's dacron one after a good season of high wind sailing. I keep every thing in good working condition, because soloing her in 20+kts makes me smile the rest of the day!
Good luck,
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Rob,
Floyd is correct about the force on main sheet on Nacra 5.5. You supposed to pull stronger in stronger wind, but stronger wind also require some depowering, which is done by moving clew traveler forward on the foot of the main. Eventually at the extreme, we are trying to bend the mast pulling the middle of main's foot, which cuts 8:1 purchase in half. Not the case with boom, where main sheet block fixed close to the end of the boom.
After a day of sailing N5.5 I often feel my arms become 4" longer -
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Andre,
Thanks I tell people about the sheet tension and they always say it should not be that tight the boom doesnt make that much difference. It is stupid tight and if your cleated in its a real pain to uncleat. I have spent over $300 trying to find the trouble but it sounds like its pretty normal on the 5.5sl. I think it may be the Mylar sail too most people I know who have had boomless rigs were running dacron sails like the 5.0 or older 5.8 or other dacron sail boats.
edited by: fa1321, Sep 21, 2010 - 10:02 PM -
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The one I've sailed (Gordon's, he's put pictures up here) has a pentex square top. I've found it extremely easy to sheet, but I've sailed it very little. Maybe I didnt play with the outhaul at all.
I have played with the outhaul on a 5.0 with a dacron sail, and didn't notice any difference, but that IS a different beast.
I'm not trying to say you guys are wrong at all, just saying my (limited) experience was different. I'm also used to a very highly loaded sheet from the sq top on my 5.2.
Best of luck, lmk if you want that traveler car.
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Floyd,
Lets separate two issues:
1) Uncleating the main;
2) Tight main sheet.
Uncleating the main depends mostly on the angle of lower block incidence. There must be a screw to adjust it and that's all. Play with it and set it to the angle you are comfortable with. That must be simple to fix...
No matter what people saying about the main sheet... I had H16, as you did, for a few years, sailed A-cat and Nacra F17 on a few occasions, and currently crew on F18. All boom-equipped boats. Nothing compares to boomless N5.5SL in terms of sheet load. Look at it from physics point of view. The sheet attachment point is not at the clew, so you have to divide the force by "foot length"/"distance from tack to sheet attachment point". The force is considerably higher, but I believe one feels it only in stronger winds.
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