18 ft PRINDLE CATAMARAN SOFT SPOTS ON DECK
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jan 16, 2011
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THERE IS A 1979 18 FT PRINDLE FOR SALE IT COMES WITH GALVANIZED TRAILER, BEACH DOLLY,HARNESSES RIGGING, SAILS ARE IN GOOD CONDITION. BOAT IS CLEAN AND READY TO SAIL BUT THERE IS SOFT SPOTS ON TOP OF THE DECKING ON BOTH SIDES. THE GUY IS ASKING 750.00 HE SAID HE WILL TAKE 600.00 IS THIS A GOOD DEAL? ARE THESE SOFT SPOTS GOING TO BE DIFFICULT TO REPAIR? ITS NOT TOTALLY DELAMINATED JUST SOME SOFT SPOTS ON TOP OF DECK PLEASE ADVISE ME WHAT I SHOULD DO. -
- Rank: Chief
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i love soft spots!!! saves you thousands on a boat. if you don't buy it, i will... soft spots are the easiest thing to fix on the boat. 600 bucks is a steal, esp w/beach dolly and trailor. seriously, if you don't buy it and it is within 500 miles or so from me, my buddy backasswards NEEDS a p-18... his p-15 just won't carry the load. did you see the the p-16 ice breaker video!!!
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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http://www.thebeachcats.c…f821d6aaf4acd8ceb5c6ac8f
here is some pics from my deck lid repair last spring, drill some holes in a pattern around the soft spots, don't drill through both layers of glass, just the top layer. drill holes same size as big syringe tip. mix up standard fiberglass resin, put it in syringe and fill holes til resin runs out surrounding holes. cut off excess resin from holes with a razor when resin starts to cure. mask off repair area first to keep unwanted resin off of surface...go sailing!!!
i'd be glad to help with more detailed info when/if your ready to do it. good luck!
Edited by coastrat on Jan 16, 2011 - 05:46 PM.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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should i cut the top layer out and then replace foam then fiberglass the area until it reaches the right height for sanding. or should i just drill the holes and fill it with fiberglass resin what would be the best way to do it? and once i drill the holes should i use a bent nail to open the area of foam more so resin will set better? -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jul 08, 2006
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http://www.hobiecat.com/s…/support/tech/delam.html
I know this is from hobie cat but same concept, like coastrat said, drill holes in pattern just in the top layer of fiberglass. This allows the epoxy to seep in through the foam and cure making that section of the boat stiffer.
Good product is Git Rot which is a penetrating epoxy.
Edited by ryman522 on Jan 17, 2011 - 01:06 AM. -
- Rank: Chief
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no need.
no need here also...
just drill and fill and the repair area will be stronger than the surrounding area. you can tap on the surface and hear the de-lam spots by the hollow noise it makes compared to the solid parts, also push on the surfaces and listen for the cracking noises. just repair in and around the soft spots and you are good.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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What i noticed today the front hull decks are all delaminated but there is no cracks but the fiberglass seperated from the foam. its not the whole front end its like 4 ft that is hollow and there is different parts on the deck that crackle when i push down so i think im going to take the hulls off and drill holes where they are needed and then fill. so you suggest git rott? if foam is damp will this product still work? or should i use the west system? also what product do you suggest to pant the decking with some sort of texture or grip to it? thank god the hulls are in good shape. Thank you all for your help i picked the boat up today believe it or not he was asking 750.00 i took the boat off his hands for 350 complete rigging sails are in incredible condition the boat is in overall great condition. except for the deck. -
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west system is great...let the hulls dry out real good before you start if they are wet. any decent marine topside paint will do a good job if applied correctly but i would wait on paint for a minute til you get the the boat dialed in and sort out more pressing issues(learning curve on old prindle rudders to name one). you got a sweet deal!!! with some of that cash you saved i would buy a new set of standing rigging(160$@salty dog marine), you don't know if the old set is about to crap out and drop the mast like mine did! as far as texture on the decks, you want to discourage sitting, standing, crawling on the lids, thats what causes de-lams.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Coast Rat
Thank you for your help so far. I have a couple more questions.
1. The front decks are in great shape no stress cracks but it is totally delaminated on both sides almost to the tip the dimensions of the the delamination are 3.10 feet long on both sides and almost to the edges of the hull. Do you think the area is to big to do the west system injection?
2. Will it add to much weight to the front end?
3. and im guesing it is going to take a gallon each side?
4. what is the distance from the foam to the glass the gap in between? when i press down it feels like a quarter inch.
Thank you -
- Rank: Chief
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1. my spots were that big...i used standard bondo/3m fiberglass resin with no coloidal sillica. probably used less than a quart on a spot 3' by 1.5'
2. you will never know the difference...a couple of pounds at most.
3. i'd start with one gallon...probably have some left over.
4. not sure...but i wouldn't drill deeper than that.
after this weekend of takeing a bunch of BIG people out on joy rides(and i think 2 of them rendevoued late night for some action), i must repair some similar deck lid issues. just remember to get the boat structurally and functionally sound before you start the cosmetic stuff.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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I have been following this thread as I too have some large friends... Do you know if I get West Systems if I can also use the product for ding repair on the keel (down to glass, any tips...)? Would I need to get any fillers or glass mat/tape? Sorry if I am diverting this thread, Ill repost if this gets off topic.
-T
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