Ok all you past and present H16 guys
I recently picked up a mid 70’s H16 from the typical place (under a tree in some guys backyard …. For the last 20yrs) I think the tree saved it, the hulls after days of cleaning are in GREAT SHAPE! NO SOFT SPOTS! WOW! I really expected to be injecting resin for days but none needed. So now to the questions.
1. The standing rigging appears to be in great shape, I ran my hand over all the standing rigging and found no broken strands no crimped or frayed ends. Good to go or replace it?
2. I replaced the rudder cams in the lower castings, 1 was broken, but not sure I understand how it is supposed to work, I am use to the N5.2 rudders. When I lock down the rudders all is good, when I try to raise them up the cams don’t reset, I have to pry then up with a screw driver. This doesn’t seem right I would think the cams would reset to the up position when you pull the rudders up. It seems like the spring may be set to tight? I did not change the plunger or the spring tension. Any ideas?
3. Once you raise the mast and disconnect the mast step link from the mast base for sailing do you completely remove it from the receiver on the front beam or leave it attached.
4. Anything else to be aware of? Thanks
I’m sure I will have more questions as I get into this boat.
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Jeff O
N5.0
solcat 18(sold),
N5.2,
H16
Camarillo CA
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Hobie 16
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Posted: Jan 20, 2011 - 11:57 PM
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Posted: Jan 21, 2011 - 04:33 AM
2: lithium grease!
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Stefan, Denmark.
H14,H16,P16,P18,SC17,N5.8
Team StaySail
http://www.staysail.eu
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Posted: Jan 21, 2011 - 11:30 AM
1. I have always taken the conservative approach on the standing rigging. It is not very expensive to replace the forestay, bridles, and shrouds. You don't want a dismasting. A visual inspection is good but it won't guarantee against a major failure of a shroud when under sail. Get the coated stuff, and note the age of your cat. 70s have different standard length standing rigging I believe. (My first boat was a brand spanking new '79 H16.) There was less mast rake as standard back then. You may like more rake. This helps with speed if you are serious about that and also reduces the tendency to pitchpole. No downside there.
2. As dichtbijzee mentioned, a little marine grease might be all that is needed since wear is not a problem. You may need to replace the old plunger, nylon screw and spring and readjust the tension. Hobie sells a kit with these three parts I believe. Parts are pretty cheap but a bit of a hassle to install. If you have adjustable upper rudder castings, you might need to make an adjustment there to remove the play in the rudders.
3. I have always left the step link fastened to the mast step (the part riveted to the front crossbar) on all my H14s and 16s. Thats how Hobie designed it. Just make sure that when you disconnect it from the mast base, it drops down out of the way so as to not interfere with mast rotation. The step link should be spring loaded to hold it down when not in use.
4. Check to see that your mast floats. Also, I suggest looking into a righting system. My favorite is what is called a Hawaiian righting system. I have had them on all my H14s and 16s. They are dead simple if you flip your boat. Just grab the line and pull when you flip, no need to have pulleys, tie a righting line, etc. It just snaps back around the pylons when not in use.
What color is your boat? Hobie made some great looking boats back then. My '79 had blue hulls and Tequila Sunrise sails. Wish I still had it.
Edited by DaveW70 on Jan 21, 2011 - 10:10 AM.
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Dave Wilson
Hobie 16, Hobie 14
Tampa, FL
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Posted: Jan 25, 2011 - 12:16 AM
Dave
Thanks for all the insight, I am doing some price shopping for new rigging and will differently try the grease to the cams. The boat is white and the sails are also white with light blue panels. thanks again.
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Jeff O
N5.0
solcat 18(sold),
N5.2,
H16
Camarillo CA
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Posted: Jan 25, 2011 - 01:32 PM
http://www.youtube.com/wa…&feature=player_embedded
http://home.earthlink.net…hives/v1-i8/feature2.htm
On the older Hobies a problem that presented was that the tiller arm would not lock down when rudders were all the way down, this was due to wear from the rudders slamming down onto the casting, causing the rudders to pivot too far forward, I used duct tape in layers and built the area up untill my tiller arms locked down.
Take out any slop on your rudders with nylon shims from ace hardware, tighten up pivot bolts so that the rudders drop gently down, no slamming, check your tiller connectors, replace if neccessary, align rudders with slight toe-in alignment, adjust "break-away" tension on cams using the delrin screws, you don't want the rudders kicking up on a screaming reach.
If you get the rudders on your H16 dialled in you will have many years of hassle free sailing, they are one of the better steering systems out there, if you dont.......
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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Posted: Jan 25, 2011 - 01:55 PM
one thing I forgot to mention, if you grab the rudders and break them free, the cams will pivot up into the ready position, if you grab the tiller arm and break them free, the cams will not pivot and will stay in the lock down position, then you have to use the screw driver lever method of pivoting the cam which ultimately damages the cam. The reason for this is that the lock down lip on the cam is thin enough to flex allowing the tiller arm to break free before the cam rotates, you just learn not to use the tiller arms to try raise your rudders. You have to keep this in mind and carry a small tool to help lever the cams when sailing, sometimes one forgets and uses the tiller arm to raise the rudders.....leaving you with the cams in the lock-down position and no way to lever them up......
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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Posted: Jan 26, 2011 - 02:11 AM
I had a hobie 16 way back and hated that whenever I did that. I did find an easy solution is looping the main sheet around the cam and pulling from the tramp. The cam will pivot up and no damage is done. The main sheet is right there and handy. -
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Posted: Jan 26, 2011 - 08:21 AM
The link to a YouTube video done by Jeremy at Surf City Catamarans showing how he rebuilds rudder castings that turbohobo mentioned above is a good one. Jeremy is a regular on the Hobie Cat forums and very knowledgeable.
Rudder locking/unlocking problems are not normal even for an older boat. Below is a link to a recent thread on this issue on the Hobie Cat forum. Note Matt Bounds response where he discusses fore/aft rudder slop. He's the resident expert over there. The Winter 2011 Hobie Hotline mentioned in that thread is now available on line.
http://www.hobiecat.com/f…lit=rudder+cam+adjustmen
Matt Bounds along with Matt Miller from the Hobie Cat Company and Jeremy at Surf City can answer virtually any question you may have about Hobies.
With the appropriate repairs and/or adjustments, your rudders should function like new. There is no reason you should not use the tiller arms to raise the rudders. For me that would be a major PITA. No reason to carry special tools and duct tape, either. Fix the real problem. However, if you ever do get into a position out on the water where the rudder cams are improperly locked down, you can reset a cam simply by looping the main sheet around it and pulling forward just as Jim posted. I can't remember the last time I had to do that, though.
Good luck.
Edited by DaveW70 on Jan 26, 2011 - 06:28 AM.
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Dave Wilson
Hobie 16, Hobie 14
Tampa, FL
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Posted: Jan 26, 2011 - 02:17 PM
I agree that Matt B, Matt M, and Jeramy will have any answer for a Hobie. If your in the SF area, go see Jeramy at Sirf City Cats (and buy something from his shop). They are all great supporters of the sport
I didnt read every word above nor any of the links but i didnt see this mentioned here:
there is a cheap hobie tool with a can opener looking end. if you drill a small hole in the rudder cam(black plastic pivot part) you can use this hobie tool to reset the cam when it has "tripped" into the wrong position. this can even be done, on the fly while still sailing (may take some practice). This tool will SAVE your cams from being chewed up using a screw driver to reset the cams and as mentioned, u can fix your rudders on the fly vs. having to do it on a beach.
Also i saw greese mentioned but not silicone spray. spray will make a "sticking rudder", work. just 1 squirt on the cam/tentionor will save you a ton of grief
I spray my cams EVERY TIME i go out cause on my mystere castings.. my rudders won't pop if its not lubed... and i cant risk pulling my transoms out
Edited by MN3 on Jan 26, 2011 - 12:18 PM. -
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Posted: Jan 28, 2011 - 03:06 PM
DaveW70's rudder advice is spot on. If properly repaired, adjusted, and lubed, you should be able to unlock the rudders by lifting the crossbar. (Try to keep some forward pressure as you do so to help the plate/pin stay engaged with the cam.) That said, if you don't have rake-adjustable upper castings and everything's worn, it may be impossible to adjust them properly.
White lithium grease on the cams once a season works wonders. Until I got mine set right and started lubing them, I didn't have much luck with the tool MN3 mentions either.
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Feb 02, 2011 - 03:55 PM
Thanks All for the great info.
I took it to the next step and replaced the plunger, springs and adjustment screws, wasn't to bad to drill out the old screw, running the 3/4" bolt through the threads was the key. The new adjustment screw turns very free now. Almost too free.
To get the spring tension low enough to allow the cams to return when the tiller is lifted I have to have the adjustment screw only about 3/4 of the way in. Has anyone had trouble with the screw backing out on it's own?
Thanks again !
Edited by ohmsj on Feb 02, 2011 - 06:41 PM.
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Jeff O
N5.0
solcat 18(sold),
N5.2,
H16
Camarillo CA
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 09:20 AM
I haven't ever lost one by having it fall out (yet
) but you could use a threadlocker like Loctite or Vibra-tite just to be sure. Make sure what you use is compatible with plastic. Vibra-tite VC-3 can be used on plastic screws.
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Dave Wilson
Hobie 16, Hobie 14
Tampa, FL
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 02:44 PM
ohmsj: Were you doing this testing dry on the trailer or in the water after everything's good and wet? If the former, don't be surprised if it kicks easier (too easy?) when you get out on the water. I don't really have a good explanation, but I just know that this can be a trial and error thing that takes a while to dial in, especially if any parts are older/worn. My delrin screws are all the way in, but I've seen a lot that weren't, and I've never heard of one falling out. Surprised it hasn't happened to me....about everything else bad has over the years! Good luck, man!
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 05:07 PM
I have screws for my mystere rudders that are different sizes.
might be the case for hobie too (multiple sizes).
A longer screw would appear to be screwed in more than others
