Thanks to all for the info on the last 5.2. Post !! Saved me questions here. Just brought home a 77 .. Great shape but no up grades..
Q 1.. The jib zipper is missing a few (2) teeth and is soo stiff.. I think the slider is bad. Tried silicone.. Bit of help.. Slides down but get stuck when unzipping.. I am rather sure I can zip it all the way to the foot however.. ...I think I can fish the forestay in the pocket prior to setpping the mast. How about raising the mast with a trap line to keep the sail clear of that operation and attaching the chain plate to the forstay using the tention from the trap line... Found a new zipper at Elloits but the repair is a few bucks.. I would like to get her on the water prior to spending bucks on repairs. Thinking about a roller reef add on..
Q2.. I dont understand why the DS needs to be changed to use the larger mast ball?? I was going to get a new mast base cuz I trailer and like the captive feature.. I have a ball from a 6.0 that I just sold and it slips ober the DS post with just a tiney bit of slop.. Seems like it would work fine with a bit of epoxy.. Perhaps that is not needed becaust the preasure is more downward and not as much side to side.. The mast base alone is not 150$ acording to the Murrys cat..
Q3 Anyone got a pix of how the jib hallyard fastens at the base of the mast. I am used to the cleats on Hobies to secure that line.. On mine N. 5.2 the sheet is "tied" to the pulley that conects to the wire to raise the jib. Seems like that is wrong.. Where does that line anchor??
Q4.. Cant seem to find out how the "pivmatic" piece works on the tiller.. I Like the idea that it helps kick up over obstructions but not sure how it works. Forum folks all recomend adding it..
Q5.. Also confused about the trap lines. Going to solo a lot and cant seem to imagine a b. cord in the front x member working well.. How about aft where the tramp laces??
Q6.. The boat came with 3 (yes 3) new daggers. HOWEVER. they are thinner than the originals. The seem a bit sloppy in the wells?? Problem?? Also got to install bungi to hold them up..
Q Last. Righting line. My boat has the caps removed from the front x member and a piece of 3/8 line attached to a nut through the member with several hand holds. It stuffs in the x mamber till needed. Has one on each side. pull out as needed. Workable??
Thanks in advance. Love this forum
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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More 5.2 advice
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Posted: Feb 02, 2011 - 05:33 PM
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Posted: Feb 02, 2011 - 08:34 PM
Q1. You'd probably best be served getting a new jib. 5.2 jibs are cheap, this time of year especially, and it never hurts to have a backup sail. That said, replacing the zipper should be cheap.
q2. I wouldn't epoxy a mast ball on -- they get worn quickly.
q3. That block should hang down the mast, and stop about 1-2 feet above a standard jam-cleat w/ becket. tie a line onto the becket, up through the block, back down through the cleat. Gives you a 2:1 on the jib, and the tension can be adjusted from the water (for upwind vs downwind, or high wind)
q4. search for pics, it'll be easy to figure out if you can see it
q5. the only problem running shock cord through the main beam is that it doesn't leave a whole lot of range of motion for the crew, compared to what you can acheive w/ the skippers trap/shock cord setup.
q6. add padding to the daggers? no idea here.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 05:57 AM
The pull down line on the rudder goes over a roller on the rudder pivot bolt, then along the arm through the jam cleat of the pivmatic. When the rudder hits, the jam cleat won't let the line slip, so the pivmatic breaks loose from the tiller arm, & pivots upwards via the pin at the end of the pivmatic.
Download the two NAcra manuals from this site. One is newer than your boat, but it shows the rudder assembly better than the older one. Go to Photo Albums/Technical Tips/pg 2 or this link. It will show two icons, select each one in turn. It will show thumbnails of each page. Go to the bottom & download the PDF file, that will give you the entire manual.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35212
Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 03, 2011 - 04:00 AM.
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 08:48 AM
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 08:49 AM
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 09:00 AM
Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 09:02 AM
Q2. I put a helicoil in the larger diameter mast ball to thread it onto my current DS rod. Works great and the captive mast base is worth every penny -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2011 - 10:12 PM
Hall,
I also have a '77 Nacra that I acquired last year, did a bit of fixing up, and sailed last summer.
Q1. I had a local guy (Wright Sail) sew me in a complete new jib zipper for $100.
Q3. Ed's described it well. I looked and unfortunately I don't have a pic of that
Q4. just jam the hold down line from the rudder in the piv. it will pop up from bow to stern when activated.
In case you have not found this guys site it has some good pics http://www.radesignz.com/nacra5.2redo.htm
Also Wolfman has some great rigging pics http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74145
And check this link http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35563 for more rigging pics.
This forum is awesome. I would have never made it on the water with out it.
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Gray Amick
Chapin, SC
'77 NACRA 5.2
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Posted: Feb 08, 2011 - 01:29 AM
THanks to all who took time to resond !! Had some of the pixs but not all. Olde guys need pixs..
Think I might try the helicoil thing for the ball cuz the difference in the size of the thread on the DS is so small and the strenght issue looks moot.. and it saves $$
The pivotmatic looks like a great up grade. Got the idea thx..
Going to sail it once or twice till I see how the jib lines work befor I relocate the tacks for them and redo the tramp for trap lines and under tramp jib rigging.
Same for the zipper prob cuz I may want to do a roller and that might change things.. Sail it.. try it.. I am in Northern Calif and could have gone out last weekend (Opps Sorry East Coast guys)
The riging of the jib is still not clear. Coming from a H 16 background.. In a H16 the tension in the rig is established by the downhaul of the jib line. The forestay is slack.. The forstay on the 5.2 is a monster and looks like it should carry the tension of the rigging.. Now my sheet from the bottom of the downhaul cable is tied OVER THE BLOCK AND AROUND THE PULLEY. My guess is that the block should have a bar under the pulley that the line attaches to so the pulley is free to apply tension whenit is rigged with the block in the bottom of the mast and is tightened.. Will try to get a pix tomorrow.
BUT,,, Does the rig tension leave the forestay with tention or is that done with the downhaul for the jib and the tension end up in the leach of the jib.?? Or.. Is there just a bit of slack in the rigging. side stays and forestay??? Should the forestay be tight enough to support the leach at all times??
PS.. Whats with the spar on the 5.2 that is adevrtized now in the clasified?? Looks like it has a spar and the stock lines from the hulls...
Thanks for the info. Buzz out to Calif and go for a sail on her with me.. Going to have the new sheets and the mast base installed next week.. Thx Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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Posted: Feb 08, 2011 - 11:51 AM
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Rob
OKC
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Posted: Feb 08, 2011 - 02:05 PM
Different horse the Nacra is. When I first picked up my 5.7 I took tons of useless pictures. Occasionally one of these proves useful!
In the photo below look at the top right. You can see 3 swagings, & 2 of the three thimbles. The top & bottom thimbles (or left & right if you visualize the mast being vertical) are shrouds, going to the respective chain-plates on the hulls. The center one is the fore stay-that will go down to a 10 hole adjuster that connects via a shackle to the two bridal wires,(one from each hull) forming an inverted "Y". The thinner wires you see are for the double traps.
The mast rake is set by moving the fore stay up or down in the 10 hole chainplate. (I borrowed that photo, note it is rigged wrong, the bridal wires should be inside the chainplate to properly distribute loads).
The rig is tensioned by setting the mast rake,(as above) then set one shroud in the appropriate hole (again each shroud connects to a 10 hole chainplate). Have a buddy pull on a trap wire, or put on a harness & hang from the wire while you set the second shroud. Voila, you now have the rig tensioned & the jib is still sitting at your feet.
Now observe the wire that goes around the block attached to the mast. That is the jib halyard, with block attached,(I think this is the setup you have). The top of jib will attach via a shackle to the end of the wire at top left of photo. As you haul the jib up, you zipper it up as it slides UP the forestay. The tack of the jib is then attached to the jib hanger (it is hanging down in the bottom photo, you would rotate it upwards & attach jib). Now you will tension the jib independently of the rig. With the jib raised, the block with becket (left center of top photo) will now be near the base of the mast. You raised the jib with the long line attached to the becket. When the line was attached, it was done so as to leave appx 2 feet of length as a trailing end. This does not show in the photo. Visualize a 25' line, tied to the beckett so as to leave a 2' tail. Comprende?
Once you raise the jib, take that 2' end & run it through the appropriate strap eye on the mast, back around the pulley, then through the jam cleat on the mast to hold it. This gives 3:1 to tension the jib. You don't need to tension it like a piano wire, you're not in the Worlds with an old 5.2, just take the wrinkles out of the jib, then stow the halyard in the tramp pocket.
All that's left is to attach the lines from the jib blocks, see the manual for this if in doubt. These photos & more are in my album under members 1984 Nacra 5.7 Click on photos in post to get full size.
Hope this works for you.
Edited by Edchris177 on Feb 08, 2011 - 04:28 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 01:07 AM
Thanks again to all who have taken a sec to respond !!!
1..JIb Rigging This is a pic of the Halyard conection to the jib tac.. ( If the pix works..Figured that it was originally and probably did not have the wire piece( SLO Sail shop make 2 styles of jib halyard).. So Going to install a block with a becket there .. At the base of the mast only a eye and the jam cleat now.. Going to install a cheek block there.
Center Starb. side of the front of the mast OK for the cheek block?? What was the duty of the eye there on the lower part of the mast there ??
2..Mast base and DS pin. Is there really a difference in the durability of the 2 sizes of the DS if you lower the mast properly?? YURDLE.. Was that your DS?? Not sure that it is worth it to install a bigger DS??
3..I have the old single post mast rotation control. Looks like it will work?? Worth the retrofit of a newer style?? Same for the spreaders. (How about sealing the old style spreaders to seal the mast??
4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???
5..Going to put some gromets in the tramp for the trap lines and to relocate the jib blocks. Think I can figure out the aft Trap lines. Are the forward ones OK in the X Memeber??
6.. The boom has the older 3 block set-up. Worth getting a new block for that?? Located on whitch tac point.. Want to contribute??. Send cash..
7.. Have a roller set up from an H18. Planning to single most of the time.. Might be handy to depower.. Looks like it may work.. Any tips or advice??
8.. Now the hulls.. The last owner painted the keels with a anti-fouling paint. Blue in the pix.. Looks like he primed it with some kind of primer..
Brownish in the pix.. The Blue comes off with Acetone and better with MEK..
Any prob using those on the glass?? The brown will need some rubbing compound or sanding i think.. I would love to have an all white hull..
Questions.. Gelcoat (or paint) the whole hull?? Only from the line down?? Good news is that the keel has NO BEACH WEAR !!Needs no glass or build-up.. Oh Yah. Even if it is a 77.. The hulls are shine-en. (Stored insidde for lots of years.. even in Calif).. What is the polish of choice?? ..
By the way, the Hobies in the back ground of one of the pixs are not all mine !! I"m not that ill.. Got storage. Actually the H 20 and the Nacra 5.8 the call this place home are elsewhere for maintainance.. Not too a big fleet though..
If pixs dont show ther are in the Album section..
Thx Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 01:21 AM
SORRY THE PIX LINKS WERE NOT ok AND DONT SEEM TO BE WORKING. CHECK OUT THE Catsailor Photo ALBUMS 5.2 RE-DO Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 02:48 AM
That was my DS after banging on it with a rubber mallet to try to straighten it out. It was almost a full 90 degrees over initially. That's the 9/16 rod. I wouldn't go smaller, and I would retrofit it if I had a smaller one.
That said, there are some caveats:
.It didn't dismast, although we had to rotate the mast by pushing on the rotator after tacking, as the base casting was catching.
.I did more damage in ~15 months to that cat than the previous 25 years.
.When the step bent, we were double trapped in intense wind and lake chop, which is extremely tough on the boat.
.It makes a neat story.
So to each his own, but I've got one of the smaller old style laying in my garage, and I'm going to build another 9/16.
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Rob
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 02:56 AM
I've disassembled those spreaders, and after doing so, I don't think you can seal them. That's not to say it's technically impossible, but realistically it doesn't seem like it would work.
I never had trouble with my 5.2 mast filling with water, though.
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Rob
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 02:58 AM
Sail it first, beg later.
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Rob
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 03:49 AM
can you provide the link to your album?
4.. Sailed H 16s.. NO CENTER BAR on the tramp. Looks like a nightmare.. Read in other posts that it can be gone with some "bracket" retro work. Not clear which bracket???
if you remove the bar you have to stop the beams from twisting in their cradles. most use stainless rivets to rivet the stainless beam straps to the beams
Edited by erice on Feb 15, 2011 - 01:55 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 04:32 PM
I put a roller furling kit from an F-18 on my 5.2. I LOVE it, it saved my "arsch" last year when I was over powered in strong winds and had to beat dead to windward in a narrow rocky channel. Would not have made it without stowing the jib or the main otherwise. That is darned hard to do when the slightest false move on the tramp already starts to flip the boat...
I got a new forestay, it was due anyway. First I mounted the pigtail and swivel then connected the jib luff and raised it, tightened it and measured the resulting excess on the original forestay. Then I had one made to the right length (allow for variation in mast rake!) In other words aim for the center hole in the chainplate on the rotator drum. That way I knew it HAD to fit. And it does.
Re center bar: Just lose it! Do as erice says, you won't be sorry. The bracket you speak of may be the center bar's rear mounting bracket. You can't just throw it away because the mainsheet swivel and cleat also attach to it. I left mine original but plan on removing the part that used to go inside the center bar. I've only bruised my knees badly on that a couple of times though, so there's no big rush... OR the beam straps on the forward (main) beam. I put 4mm monel rivets in at roughly the "2 o'clock" and "ten o'clock" positions. After a season including some very hard sailing, salt water and zero maintenance to those specific areas it all still looks great.
Dennis -
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 05:38 PM
I used stainless rivets in the main beam/straps. I think I used 1 per strap. I also over-tightened the bolts a touch (not recommended.)
I like the footrest that the fitting under the traveler sheet cleat provides in some situations. I've only hurt myself on it once that I can recall, and it was very minor.
I would lose the center beam if I hadn't already.
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Rob
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Posted: Feb 15, 2011 - 11:32 PM
LiNK TO THE PIXS IS
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79384
Thanks for the info on the roller reef, DS re-do, sealing the mast and the center bar removal. Going to try the reefer after i get her sorted out. The center bar goes now..
Got a new set of sheets in today from SLO Sails.. Going to have them re-do the tramp.. $60 for new jib slots, trap line grommets, trim and stitch the center bar material and re-stich a shot spot that is weak.. Oh and Hiking straps install... Great deal. The sheets look cool to.. Great colors. Ex material..
Going to install the new style dagger board straps. What type of screw for the fiberglass hull??
If you get a sec, check out the pix and give your feed back on paint removal and refinishing of the hulls.. and Polish..
Know any one who need an extra Hobie. I have a few..
Thx for all the info. Cheers Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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